Where to Stay in Gabu: Authentic Guesthouses to Eco-Lodges in Guinea-Bissau

First things first: reset your expectations. Gabu isn't Madrid or Lisbon with their endless hotel options. What you'll find instead are authentic stays that offer something infinitely more valuable - genuine connection.

Most accommodations here aren't listed online, which means you'll need to embrace a bit of adventure (and yes, some pre-planning). I arrived with a handwritten list of recommendations from a Bissau-Guinean flight attendant I'd befriended on a layover in Lisbon.

While the internet situation is improving, it's still spotty at best. Before arriving, I downloaded the offline maps app and marked potential accommodations. This was a lifesaver when navigating Gabu's winding streets with no data connection.

Most guesthouses operate on cash-only basis, so come prepared with CFA francs. ATMs exist but are unreliable, especially during power outages. I keep my emergency cash secure in a hidden money belt that's comfortable enough to wear in the West African heat.

My favorite stay in Gabu was with Dona Fatima, whose modest guesthouse sits just three blocks from the central market. For about 15,000 CFA (roughly $25) per night, I got a simple but clean room with a fan and a breakfast that still makes my mouth water - fresh mangoes, homemade bread, and the most incredible coffee I've had outside of Colombia.

What these guesthouses lack in amenities, they make up for in warmth. On my second night, Fatima's entire extended family invited me to join their dinner, and despite my broken Portuguese mixing with their Creole, we communicated through food, music, and laughter.

Another gem is Paulo's Place near the eastern edge of town. Paulo, a former tour guide, has converted his family compound into four guest rooms surrounding a courtyard where he grows the vegetables that end up in your dinner. The shared bathroom facilities are basic but kept immaculately clean.

If you're traveling during the hotter months (March-May), I highly recommend bringing a portable fan as electricity can be intermittent, and nights get sweltering. Also pack a sleep sheet for peace of mind if you're particular about bedding.

If you're willing to venture 15-20 minutes outside Gabu's center, a small but growing number of eco-lodges offer a different experience entirely. My favorite was Quinta Ecológica, run by a Guinea-Bissau/Portuguese couple who left careers in Europe to create a sustainable tourism model here.

Their four bungalows are built from local materials with minimal environmental impact. Solar panels provide electricity, rainwater is collected and filtered, and waste is composted or recycled. At around 30,000 CFA ($50) per night, it's pricier than in-town options but includes meals made from their organic garden.

The magic happens at dusk when you can sit on your private porch, listening to a symphony of insects and distant village sounds while watching fireflies dance across the fields. No Instagram filter can capture that moment - it's just between you and Guinea-Bissau.

For those venturing further into rural areas, I recommend packing a water purifier to reduce plastic waste and ensure safe drinking water. Also essential is a good insect repellent - the eco-friendly ones work well enough in town but you'll want something stronger for rural areas, especially during rainy season.

Solo travelers on a tight budget (I've been there!) have limited but workable options in Gabu. The most affordable is Residencial Central near the bus station, where a basic room with shared facilities runs about 10,000 CFA ($17) per night. It's clean enough, secure, and puts you in the perfect location for onward travel.

Another budget-friendly option is Pensão Amizade, where the rooms are simple but the rooftop terrace becomes a gathering spot for travelers sharing tips and sometimes forming impromptu exploration groups. As a solo female traveler, I found this social aspect invaluable.

Both places offer rooms with or without fans (choose WITH, trust me), and neither has reliable WiFi. I stay connected with my portable hotspot which lets me purchase data packages for Guinea-Bissau without switching SIM cards.

For solo travelers, especially women, I also recommend bringing a door stop alarm for peace of mind. While I've never had safety issues in Gabu, it's a simple precaution that helps me sleep better in unfamiliar surroundings.

My most meaningful accommodation experience in Guinea-Bissau wasn't technically an accommodation at all. Through a contact at a local NGO, I arranged a three-night homestay in a village 10km outside Gabu. This immersive experience cost around 8,000 CFA ($13) per night including meals, with money going directly to the host family.

I slept on a mat under a mosquito net in a room that was part of the family compound, ate meals prepared over an open fire, and spent evenings learning to play traditional games with the children. Despite having zero common language with my host mother, we developed a communication system of gestures, drawings, and lots of laughter.

These arrangements aren't easy to set up independently, but organizations like the Guinea-Bissau Tourism Association can help connect travelers with participating families. It's not for everyone - facilities are basic (think outdoor latrine and bucket showers), but the cultural exchange is priceless.

For homestays, a solar lantern is essential as many villages have limited or no electricity. I also recommend bringing a quick-dry towel that can dry between those bucket showers even in humid conditions.