Backpacking Nouakchott on $30/Day: Hidden Gems in Mauritania's Capital

First things first – Nouakchott isn't your typical backpacker hub, which means both challenges and incredible opportunities for the budget traveler. The city sprawls rather than concentrates, so getting your bearings is essential.

I based myself at Auberge Sahara, a no-frills guesthouse run by a local family that set me back just 15,000 ouguiya (about $10) per night. It's basic – shared bathrooms and minimal amenities – but clean, centrally located, and the owner Mohammed makes the best mint tea in town. For even cheaper options, check out the informal homestays near the university where students sometimes rent spare rooms.

Getting around is surprisingly affordable. The yellow shared taxis cost between 100-300 ouguiya (cents) per trip depending on distance. I quickly learned to negotiate before getting in – a skill that served me well throughout my stay. For longer distances, the colorful minibuses are even cheaper, though figuring out their routes requires some patience or a friendly local's help.

To keep track of my spending in a country where ATMs can be temperamental, my travel money belt was invaluable – it kept my cash and backup cards secure while navigating the busy markets.

If you want to experience the beating heart of Nouakchott, head straight to Marché Capitale. This sprawling market is sensory overload in the best possible way – vibrant fabrics, aromatic spices, handcrafted silver jewelry, and the constant hum of negotiations.

I spent hours wandering through the narrow alleys, where I discovered that browsing is an art form. Merchants invited me for tea without pressure to buy, though I couldn't resist picking up a traditional blue Mauritanian boubou robe for just 3,000 ouguiya ($8) – now one of my favorite travel souvenirs.

Food at the market is where you'll find incredible value. The small food stalls at the eastern edge serve generous portions of thieboudienne (fish and rice) or mechoui (slow-roasted lamb) for around 500-800 ouguiya ($1.50-2.50). My strategy was to eat a hearty late lunch here, then just grab fresh bread and fruit for dinner.

To protect myself from the intense Saharan sun while exploring, I relied heavily on my desert scarf. It's lightweight enough for the heat but provides crucial protection against both sun and occasional sand when the wind picks up – a proper lifesaver when you're spending hours outdoors in the market.

One of Nouakchott's most fascinating spots is Port de Pêche, the fishing port where hundreds of colorful wooden boats create a photographer's paradise. I timed my visit for late afternoon when the fishing fleet returns and the beach erupts into a frenzy of activity.

The port offers one of the city's best budget experiences: ultra-fresh seafood at rock-bottom prices. For just 2,000-3,000 ouguiya ($5-8), you can buy fish directly from the boats and have it grilled on the spot at one of the makeshift beachside stalls. I feasted on a whole grilled dorade with simple lemon and herbs that would have cost ten times as much back home.

The port is about 8km from the city center, so I took a shared taxi for 300 ouguiya each way. Alternatively, if you're feeling adventurous and the weather isn't too hot, it makes for a fascinating walk along the coast.

When visiting the port, prepare for intense sun reflection off both sand and water. My polarized sunglasses were essential for cutting the glare while watching the fishing boats arrive. They're lightweight, don't slip when you sweat, and are inexpensive enough that I didn't stress about having them around saltwater and sand.

Do note that while photography is generally welcome, some fishermen prefer not to be photographed. Always ask permission with a gesture and respect their wishes.

Nouakchott sits at the edge of the Sahara, and you don't need an expensive tour to experience the desert. Just 10km east of the city center, the urban sprawl gives way to rolling sand dunes that feel worlds away from the bustling markets.

I connected with a group of university students through my guesthouse who invited me to join their weekend desert picnic. We shared taxi costs (about 1,500 ouguiya/$4 round trip), packed simple food from the market, and spent a magical afternoon climbing dunes and sharing stories. This cost nothing beyond transportation and food I would have bought anyway.

For those wanting a more immersive desert experience without the hefty price tag, I discovered a hack: visit the camel market on the eastern outskirts of town and negotiate directly with herders for a short ride. I paid 2,000 ouguiya ($5) for an hour-long camel trek at sunset – a fraction of what organized tours charge.

The desert environment is harsh on electronics, so my silicone camera cover proved invaluable for protecting my gear from the fine sand that seems to get everywhere. It's lightweight, adds minimal bulk, and saved me from potential expensive repairs.

Staying hydrated is crucial in the desert climate. I filled my insulated water bottle with ice water before heading out, and it kept my drink cold for hours despite the blazing heat – absolutely worth the investment for desert adventures.

The true richness of Nouakchott lies in its cultural experiences, many of which cost little or nothing. The National Museum (Musée National) charges just 1,000 ouguiya ($2.50) for entry and offers fascinating insights into Mauritania's nomadic heritage and archaeological treasures.

I stumbled upon a traditional Mauritanian tea ceremony my second day in town. A shopkeeper invited me to join after I purchased a small souvenir, and I spent two hours learning the intricate three-glass ritual that forms the backbone of social interaction here. This cultural education came free with my 1,500 ouguiya ($4) bracelet purchase.

Religious sites offer another window into local culture. The Grande Mosquée, while not open to non-Muslim visitors inside, is impressive from its exterior. The Saudi Mosque allows respectful visitors outside prayer times if modestly dressed – no entrance fee, just cultural respect required.

One evening, I followed the sound of drums to a small public square where local musicians performed traditional Mauritanian music. Dropping a small donation in their collection box seemed appropriate, but there was no formal charge to enjoy this authentic cultural showcase.

To record these rich cultural experiences, I used my pocket audio recorder to capture the traditional music and ambient sounds of the markets. Much less intrusive than constantly taking photos, it's helped me preserve the authentic soundscape of my travels through Nouakchott.