48 Hours in Casablanca: Modern Morocco's Hidden Treasures Revealed

I started my Casablanca adventure the way any sensible budget traveler should - with an early morning visit to the Hassan II Mosque before the crowds and heat take over. Let me tell you straight - this isn't just another religious building. Standing on the Atlantic shoreline with waves crashing beneath parts of its glass floor, it's one of the few mosques in Morocco that welcomes non-Muslim visitors. At 60 dirhams (about $6), the guided tour is worth every penny.

The 60-minute tours run several times daily in different languages, but I recommend the 9:00 AM English tour. My guide, Fatima, shared insights about Islamic architecture that I wouldn't have noticed on my own. The craftsmanship here is mind-boggling - hand-carved cedar ceilings, marble columns, and mosaic work that would make any woodworker or craftsman stand in awe.

After the mosque, I walked about 25 minutes to the Old Medina (or grab a petit taxi for around 20 dirhams if your knees aren't what they used to be - mine certainly aren't). Unlike the picture-perfect medinas of Fez or Marrakech, Casablanca's old quarter feels refreshingly authentic. No one's putting on a show for tourists here.

I wandered through the narrow alleyways, where locals were going about their daily business - shopping for produce, sipping mint tea, and fixing household items. For lunch, I followed my nose to a tiny place called Snack Amine where I had a delicious chicken shawarma sandwich for just 25 dirhams. No fancy menus or English translations - just point and smile if your French or Arabic isn't up to snuff (mine sure isn't).

After lunch, I headed to Mohammed V Square to admire Casablanca's famous Art Deco architecture. This city went through a building boom in the 1920s and 30s during the French colonial period, resulting in a fascinating blend of European Art Deco with Moorish influences. They call it 'Mauresque' architecture, and it's something special.

I'm no architecture expert, but even this old forest ranger can appreciate these elegant buildings with their curved facades, intricate tilework, and ornate details. The contrast between these structures and the ultra-modern skyscrapers nearby tells the story of a city constantly reinventing itself.

Before setting out, I made sure to load some offline maps onto my smartphone power bank, which was a lifesaver throughout my trip. When you're walking all day taking photos and checking directions, battery life becomes precious.

In the late afternoon, I took a petit taxi to the Habous Quarter (also called the New Medina), built by the French in the 1930s as a more orderly version of a traditional market. Here, you'll find beautiful handicrafts without the overwhelming hustle of larger souks. The olive market is particularly fascinating - dozens of varieties I'd never seen before.

For a perfect afternoon pick-me-up, I stopped at Patisserie Bennis, a Casablanca institution since 1938. Their gazelle horns (kaab el ghazal) - crescent-shaped cookies filled with almond paste and scented with orange flower water - paired perfectly with a mint tea. At 10 dirhams each, these treats won't break the bank but will certainly satisfy your sweet tooth.

As the day cooled down, I made my way to La Corniche, Casablanca's seaside promenade. This stretch along the Atlantic Ocean is where locals come to breathe, exercise, and socialize. I've always found that the best way to understand a place is to see where its people go to relax, and the Corniche delivers that authentic experience.

I strolled along the beach boardwalk, watching families picnicking, teenagers playing soccer, and fishermen trying their luck as the sun began its descent. Having spent decades as a forest ranger in Canada, I've developed a deep appreciation for how different communities connect with their natural surroundings, and there's something special about how Casablancans embrace their coastline.

For dinner, I couldn't resist visiting the famous Rick's Café. Yes, it's inspired by the film and no, it's not the original (which never existed outside a Hollywood set). But owner Kathy Kriger, an American expat, created something special here in 2004 - a beautiful restaurant housed in a traditional Moroccan mansion that captures the film's ambiance perfectly.

At 200 dirhams (about $20) for a main course, it's not a budget meal by Moroccan standards, but the experience is worth the splurge. I nursed a single drink at the bar, listening to the pianist play 'As Time Goes By' while chatting with the friendly bartender about how the real Casablanca compares to the Hollywood version.

To capture the evening's magical light along the Corniche, I relied on my trusty travel camera. Its compact size makes it perfect for travel, yet the image quality is remarkable even in challenging lighting conditions. After years of documenting my genealogical journeys, I've learned that a good camera is worth the investment when you're trying to preserve memories.

I started my second day at Casablanca's Central Market (Marché Central), arriving around 8:30 AM when local vendors were setting up their stalls. This is where Casablancans do their daily shopping, and the morning offers a symphony of sights and smells that tell you more about Moroccan culture than any museum could.

The fish section displays the morning's catch straight from the Atlantic, while the olive vendors create colorful mountains of different varieties. What caught my attention most were the spice merchants with their vibrant pyramids of colorful powders. Having traced some of my own ancestry back to West Africa years ago, I've always been fascinated by the spice trade routes that connected Africa, the Middle East, and Europe.

I struck up a conversation with Mohammed, a spice vendor whose family has run the same stall for three generations. He patiently explained the different spice blends used in Moroccan cooking. I walked away with a small bag of ras el hanout (a complex blend of up to 30 spices) that cost just 20 dirhams and has been flavoring my camp cooking back in Canada ever since.

For breakfast, I followed Mohammed's recommendation to a small café near the market entrance where I enjoyed msemen (square-shaped Moroccan pancakes) with honey and a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice for about 25 dirhams.

After the market, I took a taxi to the Villa des Arts, Casablanca's premier art museum housed in a stunning Art Deco building. The collection focuses on contemporary Moroccan and international art, and admission is free. I've found that local art often reveals aspects of culture that history books miss entirely. The museum was refreshingly uncrowded, allowing for an unhurried appreciation of works that blend traditional Moroccan influences with modern artistic expressions.

For keeping track of all these experiences, I've found my travel journal invaluable. After decades of documenting my travels and genealogical discoveries, I've learned that memories fade but written reflections last. Each evening, I spend 15 minutes jotting down observations, conversations, and unexpected discoveries that might otherwise be forgotten.

For my final afternoon, I decided to explore a side of Casablanca that many travelers miss - its modern face. I headed to Morocco Mall, one of Africa's largest shopping centers, not to shop (though there are plenty of options from luxury brands to local crafts) but to observe contemporary Moroccan life.

The mall features a massive aquarium at its center and an indoor musical fountain that puts on regular shows. What fascinated me most was watching the diverse cross-section of Casablanca society - teenagers in the latest Western fashions alongside families in traditional dress, all sharing the same space comfortably.

I've spent enough time in rural communities across North America to know that shopping malls often serve as important social hubs, and Morocco Mall is no different. I found a café with a view of the main atrium, ordered a coffee, and spent an hour people-watching, one of my favorite travel activities.

For my last evening, I sought something authentic and affordable. I found it at La Sqala, a restaurant built into the walls of an 18th-century Portuguese fortress. Their menu offers traditional Moroccan dishes at reasonable prices (main courses from 80-120 dirhams). I ordered a chicken tagine with preserved lemons and olives that transported me straight to a Moroccan grandmother's kitchen.

As the sun set on my 48 hours in Casablanca, I reflected on how this city had surprised me. It's not the exotic Morocco of travel brochures, nor is it merely a business hub to rush through. Instead, it's a complex, living city where Morocco's past, present, and future converge in fascinating ways.

Before leaving for the airport the next morning, I made one final stop at Café M'Rabet for a last glass of mint tea. Sitting there watching the city wake up, I pulled out my travel guidebook to mark the places I'd need to explore on my inevitable return visit. Because if there's one thing this old forest ranger has learned after decades of exploration, it's that the most interesting places are those that reveal their secrets slowly, one layer at a time.