48 Hours in Cesky Krumlov: The Perfect Weekend Itinerary for Czech's Fairytale Town

As a sustainability professional who hasn't owned a car in over a decade, I'm always analyzing the transportation footprint of my adventures. Cesky Krumlov is brilliantly accessible without personal vehicles, making it an excellent choice for eco-conscious travelers.

From Prague, the most direct option is taking a RegioJet or FlixBus coach, which typically runs 5-7 times daily depending on the season. The journey takes approximately 3 hours and costs around 200-400 CZK ($9-18 USD). I opted for an early morning departure that arrived just before 11 AM, giving me a full first day to explore. The buses are comfortable, equipped with WiFi, and offer stunning views of the Bohemian countryside—I recommend sitting on the right side when departing Prague for the best scenery.

Alternatively, you can take a train from Prague to České Budějovice (about 2.5 hours), then connect to a local bus to Cesky Krumlov (another 45 minutes). While slightly less direct, this option provides more scheduling flexibility and a chance to briefly explore České Budějovice if you have time.

Once in Cesky Krumlov, you'll find the town center is entirely walkable, with most attractions within a 10-15 minute stroll of each other. The bus station is conveniently located just a 7-minute walk from the main square, making arrival with luggage manageable even on cobblestones. For my weekend trip, I packed everything into my trusty travel backpack, which provided ample space while being comfortable enough for extended walking.

Morning: Castle District

After dropping your bags at your accommodation (I recommend staying in the historic center for the full experience), head straight to Cesky Krumlov Castle. This massive complex is the second-largest castle in the Czech Republic after Prague Castle, and its elevated position provides spectacular views of the town below.

Arriving early is crucial—by 9:30 AM if possible—to beat both the summer heat and the tour groups that arrive mid-morning. The castle complex itself is free to wander, but the interior tours require tickets. I highly recommend Tour Route I, which takes you through the Renaissance and Baroque rooms with their original furnishings. The Baroque Theater tour is also exceptional if you're interested in theatrical history—it's one of only few preserved Baroque theaters in the world.

The Castle Gardens are worth at least 30 minutes of exploration, with their geometric hedges and 17th-century design. From the gardens, you'll find one of the best photography spots in town—the panoramic view of the Vltava River bending around the old town.

Afternoon: Old Town Immersion

After exploring the castle, descend into the heart of the old town for lunch. Krčma v Šatlavské (Tavern in the Jail) offers hearty Czech cuisine in a medieval atmosphere—their roasted pork knee is legendary, though perhaps best shared unless you've just completed a marathon!

Post-lunch, take a guided walking tour of the old town. While I typically prefer self-guided exploration, the historical context provided by local guides here is invaluable. Most tours last about 90 minutes and cover the town's evolution from medieval trading post to Renaissance jewel.

As the afternoon progresses, explore the narrow lanes radiating from the main square. Dlouhá ulice (Long Street) features well-preserved burgher houses with stunning sgraffito decorations. Don't miss the Regional Museum housed in a former Jesuit monastery, which provides fascinating context about local traditions and crafts.

For late afternoon, I recommend climbing the colorful Castle Tower for 360-degree views of the town. The perspective of seeing the river winding through the town center is worth the modest entrance fee and stair climb. I captured some of my favorite photos here using my compact camera, which handles the challenging light conditions of late afternoon beautifully.

As the day-trippers board their buses back to Prague, Cesky Krumlov transforms. The evening light bathes the medieval architecture in a golden glow, and the atmosphere becomes noticeably more relaxed. This is when the town truly reveals its magic to those who've chosen to stay overnight.

Riverside Dining Experience

For dinner, I recommend securing a riverside table at one of the restaurants along the Vltava. My personal favorite is Restaurant Bohemia, where tables on the wooden terrace hang directly over the water. The sound of the flowing river provides a soothing soundtrack while you dine on local specialties. Their trout is sourced from nearby South Bohemian fisheries and prepared simply but perfectly. Pair it with a glass of white wine from the Moravia region for a truly Czech experience.

Another excellent option is Papa's Living Restaurant, which offers more contemporary Czech cuisine with international influences. Their outdoor seating area offers stunning views of the illuminated castle as darkness falls.

Twilight Photography Walk

After dinner, around 9:00-9:30 PM in summer, embark on a twilight photography walk. The town takes on an entirely different character as the historic street lamps illuminate the cobblestone streets and the castle is dramatically lit against the night sky.

Start at the main square (náměstí Svornosti) and make your way toward the river. The reflection of lights on the water creates magical photo opportunities, especially from the various bridges. I found my travel tripod essential here—its compact size made it easy to carry all day, but it provided the stability needed for these low-light shots.

The area around St. Vitus Church offers particularly dramatic night views, with the gothic architecture illuminated against the dark sky. Continue along the river to capture the castle from different angles as you complete a loop back toward the town center.

Nightcap at a Local Tavern

Conclude your evening with a nightcap at Hospoda Na Louži, a traditional Czech tavern where locals and visitors mingle. Their selection of regional beers provides the perfect introduction to Czech brewing traditions beyond the well-known Pilsner Urquell. The Eggenberg brewery was historically based in Cesky Krumlov, and while production has moved elsewhere, you can still sample their beers throughout town.

Morning: Active Start with River Views

One of my travel traditions is exploring new destinations on foot with an early morning run. Cesky Krumlov offers a perfect route along the Vltava River that provides both exercise and exceptional sightseeing. If you're a runner, pack your running shoes and hit the riverside path before breakfast. Even at a leisurely pace, you can complete a scenic 5K loop that takes you along both sides of the river, offering perspectives of the town that many visitors miss.

For non-runners, this same route makes for a peaceful morning walk. Start around 7:00-7:30 AM to experience the town before most tourists emerge. The morning light on the castle and the mist rising from the river create an atmosphere straight from a storybook.

After your active start, enjoy breakfast at MLS Crêperie Café. Their outdoor terrace offers river views, and their menu features both sweet and savory options made with local ingredients. Their coffee is some of the best I found in town.

Late Morning: Monastery Gardens and Regional Museum

With renewed energy, head to the former Monastery of the Minorites and Poor Clares. The restored monastery gardens provide a tranquil escape from the more touristed areas. Take time to sit on one of the benches and simply absorb the peaceful atmosphere—a practice in mindful travel that I've found essential for truly connecting with a destination.

Next door, the Regional Museum (if you didn't visit on Day 1) offers fascinating insights into local history, from the medieval period through the communist era. The ceramic model of the town in the 19th century helps you visualize how little the historic center has changed over centuries.

Afternoon: Graphite Mine or Rafting Adventure

For your afternoon activity, choose between two unique experiences that highlight different aspects of Cesky Krumlov's character:

Option 1: Graphite Mine Tour Just a 15-minute walk from the center lies the former graphite mine that once drove the local economy. Tours provide hard hats, mining coats, and headlamps before taking you underground to experience the conditions miners worked in. It's a fascinating glimpse into industrial history and provides context for understanding the town's development beyond its picturesque surface.

Option 2: Vltava River Rafting Alternatively, embrace the Czech summer tradition of river rafting. Multiple rental companies in town offer inflatable rafts or canoes for 2-3 hour trips down gentle sections of the Vltava. The perspective of approaching the town from the water, passing under ancient bridges and alongside medieval walls, offers a completely different appreciation of Cesky Krumlov's setting. This activity is suitable for beginners, as the river is generally calm with only minor rapids in this section.

As your 48 hours in Cesky Krumlov draw to a close, dedicate your final evening to experiencing the town's most magical light and flavors.

Late Afternoon: Climb to Křížová hora (Cross Hill)

Approximately 30 minutes before sunset, set out for Křížová hora (Cross Hill), located just outside the town center. This moderate uphill walk takes about 20-25 minutes and rewards you with what I consider the definitive view of Cesky Krumlov. From this elevated vantage point, you can see how the Vltava River embraces the old town in its horseshoe bend, with the castle rising majestically above the red-tiled rooftops.

The hill is marked by a pilgrimage chapel and cross, adding architectural interest to your photos. During my visit, I shared this sunset spot with only a handful of other photographers, a stark contrast to the daytime crowds in the town center. The golden hour light here is truly spectacular, transforming the town into a glowing medieval masterpiece.

For serious photographers, I recommend bringing a zoom lens to capture both wide panoramas and detailed shots of specific architectural elements from this distance. The compression effect of a telephoto lens beautifully emphasizes the layers of buildings and surrounding landscape.

Evening: Farewell Feast

For your final dinner, treat yourself to a memorable meal at Restaurant Konvice. Located in a 16th-century building near the main square, their menu celebrates traditional Bohemian cuisine with modern refinement. The roasted duck with red cabbage and dumplings is exceptional, as are their wild game specialties when in season.

If you're feeling adventurous, try their tasting menu paired with Czech wines—an excellent way to experience flavors you might not select individually. The historic dining room with vaulted ceilings and candlelight creates an atmosphere that perfectly complements the medieval surroundings.

After Dinner: Farewell Drinks with a View

Conclude your Cesky Krumlov experience with a nightcap at Apotheka Café Bar, housed in a former pharmacy with a terrace overlooking the river. Their craft cocktails often incorporate local herbs and spirits, offering one final taste of regional flavors before departure.

As you sip your drink and gaze at the illuminated castle, take a moment to reflect on the layers of history you've experienced in just 48 hours. Despite its small size, Cesky Krumlov offers a depth of experience that rivals much larger destinations, particularly when explored at the unhurried pace that staying overnight allows.