48 Hours in Lima: The Perfect Weekend Itinerary for Food Lovers

I always say to truly know a city, you need to see where the locals shop and eat. That's why I recommend kicking off your Lima adventure with an early morning visit to Mercado Surquillo No. 1. This isn't one of those sanitized tourist markets—it's the real deal, where Limeños do their daily shopping.

Arrive around 7:30 am when the market is buzzing but not yet heaving. The sensory overload is magnificent: rainbow displays of exotic fruits, vendors calling out prices, and the unmistakable energy of commerce that reminds me of Liverpool's old Stanley Market, though considerably more tropical.

Make a beeline for the fruit section and try lucuma, a native Peruvian fruit that tastes like maple custard. I was skeptical at first—reminds me of when the lads at the Liverpool bus depot convinced me to try Marmite—but lucuma quickly became a favorite. Ask for a fresh juice blend with it.

For breakfast proper, find one of the small market stalls serving tamales limeños (corn dough stuffed with chicken or pork) and wash it down with a steaming cup of café pasado (traditional filtered coffee). The whole experience will set you back about 15-20 soles (£3-4), proving that some of Lima's best experiences don't require deep pockets.

After filling your belly, take a leisurely stroll to the nearby Kennedy Park in Miraflores. It's about a 15-minute walk, perfect for digestion, and gives you a glimpse of local life. The park is famous for its resident cats, which reminded me of the station cats we had back at the Liverpool bus terminal. Strange how cats find their way into transportation hubs worldwide!

I always carry my compact binoculars to spot birds and architectural details, and they came in handy here for watching the Pacific coast from the park's western edge. Worth every penny for the enhanced views.

After your market adventure, it's time to experience Lima's renowned seafood scene. Head to the Miraflores boardwalk (Malecón) for a stunning coastal walk. The cliffside path offers breathtaking views of the Pacific—a far cry from the Irish Sea I grew up with! Take your time here; the walk is gentle enough even for my old bus driver knees.

For lunch, I can't recommend La Mar Cebichería enough. It's owned by Gastón Acurio, Peru's most famous chef, but don't let that put you off—it's surprisingly affordable for the quality. Arrive by 12:30 pm, as they don't take reservations and queues form quickly. The restaurant is only open for lunch (closes at 5:30 pm), which is how you know it's authentic—Peruvians traditionally eat their seafood fresh in the daytime.

Order the classic ceviche and a pisco sour. When that citrus-cured fish hits your palate, you'll understand why Peruvians are so proud of this dish. It reminds me of my first taste of proper fish and chips after driving the Liverpool-Blackpool route—that moment when you realize food can be transformative. A meal here will set you back about 80-120 soles (£16-25) per person, including drinks—not cheap by local standards but worth every penny.

After lunch, walk off those calories with a visit to the nearby Huaca Pucllana, a pre-Incan adobe pyramid right in the middle of Miraflores. It's bizarre seeing this ancient structure surrounded by modern buildings—like finding Stonehenge in central London! The guided tour costs 15 soles (£3) and lasts about an hour, perfect timing to help your lunch settle.

As the afternoon winds down, grab a coffee at Café Haiti on Parque Kennedy. It's been around since 1962—a proper institution. Their coffee is strong enough to wake a sleeping bus driver after a double shift, which is exactly what you might need after all that food and walking.

As evening approaches, it's time to experience Lima's vibrant nightlife and innovative food scene. Start with a pisco tasting at Museo del Pisco in Barranco district. This isn't actually a museum—it's a bar with over 100 varieties of Peru's national spirit. For about 35 soles (£7), you can try a flight of different piscos with expert explanation.

The bartenders here remind me of old Malcolm who used to drive the late-night Liverpool routes—full of stories and wisdom if you care to listen. I've driven buses in two hemispheres, but I'll tell you this—I wouldn't get behind the wheel after more than one pisco sour! These drinks pack a proper punch.

For dinner, I recommend Maido, which serves Nikkei cuisine—a unique Peruvian-Japanese fusion that reflects Lima's diverse cultural heritage. Yes, it's upscale (about 250-400 soles/£50-80 per person for their tasting menu), but if you're only in Lima for 48 hours, it's worth the splurge for what's consistently ranked among the world's best restaurants. Book well in advance—I'm talking months, not days.

If you're like me and prefer something more casual (and budget-friendly), head to Isolina Taberna Peruana in Barranco instead. This homestyle tavern serves generous portions of traditional Peruvian comfort food. Their seco de cordero (lamb stew) transported me straight back to Sunday dinners at my mum's in Liverpool, though with distinctly Peruvian flavors. Expect to pay around 70-100 soles (£14-20) per person including drinks.

After dinner, take a slow walk through Barranco's bohemian streets. The district comes alive at night with street performers and artisans. Cross the famous Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs)—legend says if you can hold your breath while crossing it, your wish will come true. Mine was for another day of eating in Lima, and look at that—it worked!

To capture these magical evening moments, I rely on my travel tripod. It's lightweight enough to carry all day but sturdy enough for those low-light shots that help me remember these special evenings long after I've returned home to Sydney.

Start your second day with a hearty breakfast at El Pan de la Chola in San Isidro. Their sourdough is legendary, and the coffee strong enough to jumpstart even the weariest traveler. I always go for their avocado toast with poached eggs—sounds basic, I know, but when the ingredients are this fresh, simple is best. Breakfast will cost about 25-35 soles (£5-7).

After fueling up, take a taxi to Lima's historic center. As someone who's navigated buses through Liverpool's narrow streets, I can tell you that Lima's traffic makes that look like a Sunday drive in the countryside! The taxi should cost around 15-20 soles (£3-4) from San Isidro.

Lima's Plaza Mayor (also called Plaza de Armas) is the heart of the colonial center and the city's birthplace. The architecture here reminds me of the grand buildings back home, except with a distinctly Spanish colonial flair and a lot more sunshine. The Presidential Palace, Cathedral, and surrounding buildings create a magnificent ensemble that speaks to Peru's complex history.

Time your visit for the changing of the guard at the Presidential Palace (daily at noon). It's a bit of pomp and ceremony that reminds me of London, though with Peruvian flair.

Afterward, walk to the nearby Monastery of San Francisco for a fascinating tour of its catacombs. The monastery houses an impressive library with ancient texts, but it's the underground ossuary with artfully arranged bones that will really stick in your memory. The guided tour costs 15 soles (£3) and lasts about 40 minutes.

For a mid-morning treat, head to the Choco Museo near Plaza Mayor. They offer chocolate-making workshops where you'll learn about Peruvian cacao while creating your own sweet souvenirs. The workshop costs about 70 soles (£14) and lasts 2 hours—time well spent if you ask me. I've driven past countless chocolate shops in my life, but actually making the stuff gives you a whole new appreciation for it.

I always record these experiences in my travel journal. There's something about putting pen to paper that helps me remember details that would otherwise fade—the smell of the cacao, the laughter of fellow travelers, the pride in creating something delicious.

For a truly memorable Lima experience, I recommend spending your final afternoon learning to cook Peruvian classics yourself. Sky Kitchen offers excellent cooking classes with English-speaking chefs in a rooftop setting with panoramic city views. For about 240 soles (£48), you'll learn to make ceviche, cause (potato casserole), and pisco sours during a 3-hour class that includes lunch.

I've driven buses in two countries, and I'll tell you this—driving is a skill you can learn anywhere, but cooking skills are the souvenirs that keep giving long after you've returned home. My mates in Sydney still request my ceviche at barbies, though I can't promise it's authentic anymore with my Liverpool-Aussie fusion touches!

If cooking isn't your thing, consider a visit to the Larco Museum instead. Housed in an 18th-century mansion, it offers an excellent overview of Peru's ancient civilizations. Their collection of pre-Columbian erotic pottery is eye-opening, to say the least! The museum cafe is also a lovely spot for lunch in a garden setting. Museum entry costs 30 soles (£6).

Spend the late afternoon unwinding at Parque del Amor (Love Park) in Miraflores, watching paragliders soar over the Pacific. The park features a massive sculpture of a couple embracing that would make even the most reserved Brit blush. It reminds me of the couples who would sneak kisses on the back of my evening bus routes, thinking the driver couldn't see them in the rearview mirror (we always can, by the way).

The paragliding looks spectacular, and if you're braver than me, you can try a tandem flight for about 280 soles (£56). My bus driving days taught me I prefer keeping at least one foot on solid ground, so I'm content to watch others take to the skies while I snap photos.

For capturing those paragliders against the sunset, I rely on my zoom lens. It's not the lightest thing to carry around all day, but those telephoto shots of colorful parachutes against the Pacific sunset are worth every ounce of extra weight in my daypack.

For your final evening in Lima, treat yourself to dinner with a view at Cala in Barranco. This upscale restaurant sits right on the beach with floor-to-ceiling windows facing the Pacific. Time your reservation for sunset (around 6:30 pm in autumn) and watch the sun melt into the ocean—a sight that rivals even the most spectacular Sydney sunsets I've witnessed.

Cala specializes in seafood with Peruvian touches. Their arroz con mariscos (Peruvian paella) is magnificent, loaded with fresh seafood and bright with lime and cilantro. Expect to pay around 120-180 soles (£24-36) per person including drinks. It's a splurge by local standards, but the combination of food and setting justifies the expense.

If you're after something more traditional for your final meal, head to La Picantería instead. This rustic restaurant serves family-style Peruvian dishes meant for sharing. Order the catch of the day prepared two ways—half in ceviche, half fried—a house specialty that showcases the versatility of Peru's seafood. A meal here runs about 90-120 soles (£18-24) per person.

After dinner, it's time for one last pisco sour. Ayahuasca Bar, set in a beautifully restored mansion in Barranco, offers creative cocktails in a series of themed rooms. Each space has its own personality—rather like the different bus routes I used to drive, each with its regular characters and unique atmosphere.

If you prefer live music with your nightcap, try Sargento Pimienta, a Beatles-themed bar that made this Liverpool lad feel right at home. They often feature local bands playing everything from rock covers to traditional Peruvian music.

As you sip your final drink, reflecting on 48 hours of culinary adventures, you might find yourself already planning a return visit. Lima has that effect on people—especially those who come with an appetite.

Before heading back to your hotel, take a moment to walk along the illuminated Malecón one last time. The city lights reflecting on the Pacific create a magical atmosphere that's the perfect backdrop for farewell reflections. Lima at night reminds me of Sydney's harbourfront—both cities know how to show off their coastal settings after dark.