48 Hours in Matsumoto: The Perfect Weekend Itinerary for Japan's Castle City

The logical place to begin any Matsumoto adventure is at its crown jewel – Matsumoto Castle. I recommend arriving right when it opens at 8:30 am to beat both the crowds and the afternoon heat. Unlike many Japanese castles rebuilt in concrete, Matsumoto-jo is one of Japan's few remaining original wooden castles, earning its designation as a National Treasure.

As I approached along the moat pathway, the striking black and white façade against the backdrop of snow-capped Japanese Alps literally stopped me in my tracks. Do bring your comfortable walking shoes as you'll need to remove footwear before entering the castle and navigate some incredibly steep wooden staircases inside. The interior is remarkably preserved, with each floor housing artifacts and displays explaining the castle's strategic importance and architectural ingenuity.

After exploring the castle, I spent the late morning wandering through Nawate-dori and Nakamachi-dori, two preserved historic streets just a short walk away. Nawate-dori, known as 'Frog Street' for its countless frog statues and trinkets (symbols of good fortune for travelers), is lined with quirky shops and food stalls. I couldn't resist purchasing a handcrafted frog charm that now hangs from my travel journal.

Nakamachi-dori, with its beautifully preserved black and white kura (storehouses) converted into cafés and boutiques, offers a glimpse into Matsumoto's merchant past. I stumbled upon Kurassic-kan, a free museum inside a former sake brewery, where a lovely elderly volunteer gave me an impromptu tour despite our language barrier. Her enthusiasm transcended words as she demonstrated traditional crafts and insisted I try on a vintage kimono – resulting in photos that still make me chuckle.

After a morning of historical exploration, I treated myself to a well-earned lunch at one of Matsumoto's famous soba restaurants. The region is renowned for its buckwheat noodles, and Kura, a tiny establishment recommended by my friend Mariko, served the most sublime cold zaru soba with fresh wasabi – a world away from the green paste we get back home. The chef proudly explained that both the buckwheat and wasabi were locally grown in the pure mountain waters surrounding Matsumoto.

With a satisfied appetite, I ventured to the Matsumoto City Museum of Art, primarily to see works by Yayoi Kusama, the internationally acclaimed artist who was born in Matsumoto. The museum's permanent exhibition includes several of her iconic polka-dotted pumpkins and immersive installations. What a delight to discover that my visit coincided with their special exhibition on local textile traditions! I've always had a weakness for traditional crafts, and watching the demonstration of Matsumoto's distinctive indigo dyeing technique was a highlight.

Just a short walk away is the Japan Ukiyo-e Museum, housing the world's largest collection of ukiyo-e woodblock prints. Having always admired these prints but never fully understood their significance, I was grateful for my pocket translator which helped me understand the detailed explanations provided by the curator. The museum is actually a private collection of the Sakai family, who have amassed over 100,000 prints over generations, though only a fraction are displayed at any time.

Before heading back to my accommodation, I stopped at Nakamachi Street's craft beer pub, Matsumoto Brewery, where I sampled their seasonal cherry blossom ale while chatting with a group of international teachers working in the region. They shared invaluable tips about local onsen (hot springs) that I'd never have found in guidebooks – precisely the kind of serendipitous encounter that makes solo travel so rewarding.

As twilight descended on Matsumoto, I made my way to Utsukushigahara Onsen, a hot spring area just 30 minutes from the city center by local bus. While many visitors miss this opportunity by staying exclusively in the city center, I'd highly recommend making the effort. The bus journey itself offers spectacular views as it winds up into the foothills, and the driver kindly announced my stop despite my obvious foreigner status.

I selected a modest onsen ryokan (hot spring inn) called Sanjiro, where for about ¥1,500 (approximately £8 or AU$15), non-staying guests can use the outdoor baths. After navigating the bathing etiquette (remember: wash thoroughly before entering the bath!), I eased into the steaming waters of the rotenburo (outdoor bath) and watched as the city lights began twinkling in the valley below. The combination of 42°C mineral water and cool mountain air was utterly restorative after a day of walking.

For dinner, I returned to the city center and sought out Hitotsumami, a tiny izakaya (Japanese pub) tucked away in a side street near Nakamachi. With just eight counter seats, I was initially worried they wouldn't accommodate a solo diner, but the chef-owner waved me to a corner spot with a warm smile. What followed was a parade of small plates featuring local specialties: horse sashimi (a regional delicacy that requires some courage), pickled vegetables from nearby farms, and tempura made with seasonal mountain vegetables I couldn't identify but thoroughly enjoyed.

The evening concluded with a nighttime stroll past Matsumoto Castle, which is beautifully illuminated until 10 pm during spring and summer. The reflection of the lit castle in the still moat waters created the perfect ending to my first day. I was grateful for my compact tripod which allowed me to capture some long-exposure photographs despite the low light – images that far exceeded what my smartphone could manage.

I began my second day with an early morning visit to the Matsumoto Farmers' Market, locally known as Agatanomori Market. Having arrived just after its 7:30 am opening, I found myself among local pensioners selecting the freshest produce. The market features dozens of stalls selling seasonal vegetables, homemade pickles, and local specialties like shinshu miso. What struck me most was how the elderly farmers manning the stalls took immense pride in their offerings, often providing samples and preparation suggestions despite our language barrier.

I purchased what can only be described as the most perfect peach I've ever eaten – the juice literally ran down to my elbows as I devoured it on a nearby bench. I also couldn't resist buying some wasabi salt and pickled vegetables to take home, which the vendor carefully wrapped to survive the journey back to Australia.

By mid-morning, I made my way to the Matsumoto Craft Center, where I had pre-booked a temari ball making workshop. Temari balls are traditional Japanese thread balls, originally handcrafted from kimono scraps as children's toys but now preserved as an art form. The two-hour workshop was conducted by an elderly craftswoman who, despite speaking minimal English, demonstrated the techniques with such clarity that language became unnecessary.

With patience that bordered on saintly, she guided me through creating a simple geometric pattern, correcting my technique with gentle hands whenever I went astray. While my finished product lacked the mathematical precision of hers, it remains one of my most treasured souvenirs. The center offers various workshops throughout the year, including indigo dyeing and wood crafting – all providing deeper insights into Japan's crafting heritage than merely purchasing souvenirs.

After the workshop, I wandered through the adjacent Agata-no-mori Park, a peaceful green space with magnificent old trees and several historic buildings. The park was once the estate of a high-ranking samurai family, and remnants of this history are visible in the restored gate and garden structures. I found a sunny bench and enjoyed my pocket sketchbook and drawing pencils, attempting to capture the elegant lines of a particularly ancient pine tree – artistic skills that have improved marginally since my retirement, but still bring me immense joy.

After a quick lunch of karaage (Japanese fried chicken) from a street vendor, I hopped on the Alps Park Line bus for the 20-minute ride to Matsumoto Alps Park. While many visitors overlook this attraction in favor of more central sights, the panoramic views of the Northern Japanese Alps and Matsumoto City from the observation deck are absolutely worth the detour.

The park features beautifully maintained gardens that showcase seasonal plantings – during my spring visit, the late cherry blossoms and early azaleas created a tapestry of pinks and purples across the hillside. The park also houses the Matsumoto City Alps Art Museum, a small but thoughtfully curated collection focusing on artists inspired by the surrounding mountains.

What particularly captivated me was the outdoor sculpture garden, where contemporary installations are positioned to frame views of the distant alps. I spent a contemplative hour sketching one particularly striking steel sculpture that seemed to change form as clouds passed overhead, altering the light and shadows.

Returning to the city center by mid-afternoon, I visited the Matsumoto Timepiece Museum, which houses an impressive collection of clocks and watches spanning four centuries. As someone with minimal interest in horology, I was surprised by how fascinating I found the exhibits. The museum occupies a distinctive European-style building that seems oddly at home among Matsumoto's traditional architecture.

The curator, noticing my interest in a particularly complex astronomical clock, offered an impromptu demonstration in charmingly accented English. His enthusiasm was infectious as he explained how the clock tracked not only time but celestial movements, demonstrating mechanisms that had functioned flawlessly for over 200 years.

Before leaving, I browsed the museum shop, which offers an eclectic selection of timepieces and related gifts. I couldn't resist purchasing a small wooden cuckoo clock for my grandson – though I suspect my daughter will be less than thrilled with the hourly chirping in their home.

With a few hours remaining before dinner, I decided to explore some of Matsumoto's backstreets with my travel guidebook in hand. While I typically prefer digital resources, there's something reassuring about a physical guidebook when wandering unfamiliar neighborhoods. The detailed maps led me to Yohashira Shrine, a small Shinto shrine with four deities that locals visit for various blessings. I observed a young couple praying, presumably for fertility or a happy marriage, a timeless ritual that continues despite our modern world's distractions.

For my final evening in Matsumoto, I took a local recommendation and visited the Hotaka Shrine, often called the 'Shrine of Abundance' by locals. Located about 30 minutes from the city center by bus, this shrine is particularly beloved for its sunset views. The timing was perfect – I arrived just as the late afternoon light was beginning to soften, casting a golden glow across the shrine's vermilion gates and lanterns.

What makes this shrine special is its location at the foot of the mountains, creating a spiritual atmosphere that feels connected to the natural landscape. Unlike the more famous shrines in Kyoto or Tokyo, Hotaka Shrine rarely sees foreign tourists, offering a more authentic experience. I watched as local families performed evening prayers, and an elderly priest kindly motioned for me to approach the main altar, where he demonstrated the proper bowing and clapping ritual.

As sunset approached, I found a quiet spot on the shrine grounds with a perfect view of the mountains. The changing colors as the sun dipped behind the peaks – from gold to pink to deep purple – created a meditative moment that felt like the perfect conclusion to my Matsumoto adventure.

For my farewell dinner, I had reserved a seat at Kura Sushi, a traditional restaurant housed in a 120-year-old former sake warehouse. While the restaurant offers private dining rooms, as a solo traveler I requested counter seating where I could watch the chefs at work. The seasonal kaiseki course I selected featured eight beautifully presented small dishes highlighting local ingredients.

The standout was the ayu (sweetfish) caught in nearby mountain streams, grilled whole with nothing but salt to enhance its delicate flavor. The chef, noticing my appreciation, explained through limited English and expressive gestures how he selected the fish personally each morning from a specific fisherman who uses traditional methods.

The meal concluded with a surprising fusion dessert – matcha tiramisu that somehow perfectly balanced Italian and Japanese flavors. Paired with a glass of local Nagano wine (yes, Japan produces some excellent wines!), it was a fitting end to my 48 hours in this remarkable city.

As I walked back to my ryokan under a canopy of stars, I reflected on how Matsumoto had exceeded my expectations. It offered the perfect balance of cultural immersion, historical significance, and natural beauty without the overwhelming crowds of Japan's more famous destinations. For travelers seeking an authentic Japanese experience that can be comfortably explored in a weekend, Matsumoto surely deserves a place at the top of your itinerary.