Mechelen: Belgium's Hidden Gem Between Brussels and Antwerp

Stepping out of the recently renovated train station, Mechelen immediately presents itself as a city comfortable in its own skin. The 20-minute walk to the historic center follows the Dijle River, which winds through the city like a liquid timeline connecting its past and present.

The Grote Markt (Main Square) reveals itself suddenly as you round a corner, and the full majesty of St. Rumbold's Tower hits you at once. At 97 meters tall, this UNESCO World Heritage site dominates the skyline and offers the most spectacular views of the city for those willing to climb its 538 steps. I'm not ashamed to admit I had to stop twice on my ascent – cycling fitness doesn't always translate to stair-climbing prowess, apparently.

The square itself is ringed with colorful 16th and 17th-century guild houses, each more photogenic than the last. Unlike Bruges or Brussels, you won't find yourself dodging selfie sticks or waiting for tourist groups to clear before taking photos. Instead, you'll see locals going about their day, perhaps enjoying a coffee at one of the many café terraces that spill onto the cobblestones.

If there's one thing I've learned in my years of travel, it's that experiencing a city on two wheels offers perspectives you simply can't get otherwise. Mechelen is exceptionally bike-friendly, even by Belgian standards (and that's saying something).

I rented a sturdy city bike from the shop near the station – though if you're planning multiple cycling days, I'd recommend bringing your own helmet or picking up a lightweight folding helmet that won't take up much space in your luggage.

The 'Dijle Path' follows the river through the city and connects to a network of cycling routes that extend into the countryside. My favorite ride was the 25km loop that circles Mechelen and passes through the Mechels Broek nature reserve. The flat terrain makes it accessible for casual cyclists, while the constantly changing scenery – from urban to rural in minutes – keeps things interesting.

For those looking to venture further, the Komoot cycling app proved invaluable for discovering local routes with turn-by-turn navigation. The premium version unlocks the entire Belgium region and lets you download maps for offline use – essential when you're exploring rural areas with spotty cell service.

Belgium's beer reputation precedes it, but Mechelen offers a brewing experience that feels more authentic than the tourist-oriented beer cafés of Brussels or Bruges. The city was once home to more than 50 breweries, and while that number has diminished over the centuries, a brewing renaissance is underway.

Het Anker brewery, founded in 1471 and still family-operated, produces the world-renowned Gouden Carolus beers. Their brewery tour is comprehensive without being overwhelming – the perfect balance of history, brewing science, and of course, tasting. What sets this experience apart is the genuine passion of the guides, many of whom have worked at the brewery for decades.

For those looking to sample more of Belgium's liquid treasures, De Zalm on the Grote Markt offers an impressive selection of local and national beers. The bartenders are encyclopedic in their knowledge and refreshingly free of pretension. When I mentioned my interest in sustainable food practices, the owner guided me toward several small-batch breweries using organic ingredients and traditional methods.

If you're serious about your beer exploration, I'd recommend bringing a beer journal to record your discoveries. Mine is filled with notes from across Belgium, and Mechelen occupies more pages than cities twice its size.

Sandwiched between culinary powerhouses Brussels and Antwerp, Mechelen has developed its own distinct food identity that draws from both Flemish tradition and modern innovation. What impressed me most was the city's commitment to local sourcing – something that resonates deeply with my own food philosophy.

The Saturday market at the Grote Markt is where Mechelen's food story begins. Farmers from the surrounding countryside bring their produce, cheeses, and meats directly to the city. As someone who's worked in catering for years, I can spot quality ingredients immediately, and the offerings here are exceptional. I filled my day pack with local cheeses, freshly baked bread, and seasonal berries for an impromptu picnic later.

For those with dietary preferences, I was pleasantly surprised by the vegan options available. Grand Café Lamot offers several plant-based dishes that aren't mere afterthoughts but centerpieces of the menu. Their seasonal vegetable tart was one of the best vegan dishes I've had in Belgium.

For a more immersive experience, I highly recommend the cooking workshop with local chef Marie at her home kitchen. We prepared traditional Flemish waterzooi (a creamy stew) using ingredients we'd purchased together at the market. Marie's version included a vegan alternative that was equally satisfying.

Mechelen's accommodation options reflect its character: quality-focused, authentic, and refreshingly reasonable compared to Belgium's larger cities. During my first visit, I stumbled upon Martin's Patershof, a converted 19th-century church where I've stayed on every subsequent visit. Sleeping beneath soaring Gothic arches and stained glass windows creates an atmosphere that chain hotels simply can't replicate.

For those seeking something more intimate, B&B De Lachende Engel (The Laughing Angel) offers just four rooms in a renovated townhouse near the beguinage. The owner, Karin, prepares breakfasts featuring ingredients from the market and her own garden. Her recommendations led me to several off-the-beaten-path experiences I'd never have found otherwise.

If you're traveling with cycling as a focus like I often do, VéloLodge specifically caters to cyclists with secure bike storage, repair stands, and routes mapped out for various skill levels. They even provide bike cleaning kits for guests – a thoughtful touch that shows they understand cyclists' needs.

For longer stays or those preferring more independence, I recommend the apartments at Hygge Hotel, which feature small kitchenettes perfect for preparing simple meals with market finds. Their central location means you're never more than a pleasant stroll from Mechelen's main attractions.