Beyond Prague: Exploring Brno's Underground Culture, Art Scene & Hidden Gems

Brno presents itself as an open-air museum of architectural evolution, where each era has deposited its distinctive signature across the urban landscape. My engineering background immediately drew me to Villa Tugendhat, a UNESCO World Heritage site and masterpiece of functionalist design by Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. The villa's revolutionary steel framework and open floor plan concept from 1930 remain astonishingly modern, while its technical innovations—including an early air conditioning system and mechanically retractable windows—still impress even by today's standards.

What makes Brno particularly fascinating is the juxtaposition of styles within walking distance. From the Gothic spires of St. Peter and Paul Cathedral perched atop Petrov Hill to the brutalist monuments of the communist era, the city reads like a three-dimensional textbook of European architectural history. The Brno Observatory and Planetarium, with its distinctive dome set against the greenery of Kraví Hora, offers both astronomical insights and an excellent example of 1950s socialist architecture.

For those interested in capturing this architectural diversity, I found my compact tripod invaluable for low-light photography of illuminated buildings in the evening hours. The brutalist Hotel International, with its distinctive honeycomb façade, is particularly photogenic when lit at night—the concrete geometry creating fascinating shadow patterns that my materials-oriented mind couldn't help but appreciate.

While Brno's surface architecture impressed me, the city's underground network truly captivated my scientific curiosity. As someone who studies material preservation, the Capuchin Crypt offered a fascinating—if somewhat macabre—case study. The naturally mummified remains of monks dating back to the 18th century have been preserved through a combination of geological conditions and architectural ventilation systems that create a microclimate preventing decomposition.

More extensive is the Labyrinth under the Vegetable Market (Zelný trh), a medieval network of cellars and passageways once used for food storage and merchant activities. The consistent temperature and humidity levels (around 15°C year-round) demonstrate a remarkable intuitive understanding of climate control that predates modern engineering by centuries.

Perhaps most impressive is the 10-Z Bunker, a massive nuclear fallout shelter built during the Cold War era. Repurposed as a cultural space, this concrete behemoth contains original equipment and offers insights into the material engineering challenges of creating structures designed to withstand nuclear attack. The bunker now hosts art exhibitions, underground concerts, and even a retro-styled café where I enjoyed what might be the most atmospherically unique coffee break of my travels.

Navigating these underground spaces requires comfortable walking shoes and occasionally navigating narrow passages. I found my headlamp invaluable during parts of the bunker tour where lighting was deliberately kept dim to preserve the authentic atmosphere.

With nearly one-fifth of Brno's population being university students, the city pulses with youthful creative energy that manifests in everything from café culture to experimental theater. This demographic influence creates a fascinating economic ecosystem where cultural experiences remain refreshingly affordable compared to Prague or other Western European destinations.

The heart of this creative scene is centered around Veveří street and the adjacent neighborhoods, where centuries-old buildings have been repurposed into galleries, performance spaces, and workshop studios. At Industra Art, housed in a former factory, I witnessed the perfect synthesis of Brno's industrial past and artistic present—concrete walls and exposed structural elements now serving as backdrop for cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions.

What particularly impressed me was how Brno's student population has embraced sustainability in their creative endeavors. At Remake, a combination workshop and retail space, I watched design students transforming discarded materials into furniture and accessories. As someone who studies material properties professionally, their innovative approaches to repurposing and extending the lifecycle of objects was both technically impressive and culturally significant.

The café scene deserves special mention, with spots like Café Mitte and SKØG Urban Hub functioning as informal incubators for creative projects. These spaces blur the lines between coffee shop, gallery, and collaborative workspace. The coffee culture here is serious business—I recommend trying the local preparation method using pour-over coffee maker which many cafés use to highlight the nuanced flavor profiles of locally-roasted beans.

As regular readers of my blog know, I've developed something of a reputation for my enthusiasm for segway tours—a passion that began as a practical solution for covering more ground with my children but has evolved into my preferred method for initial urban exploration. Brno proved ideal for this approach, with its combination of hills, expansive parks, and relatively light traffic in the historic areas.

I joined a morning tour with Segway Brno, whose guides offer a perfect balance of historical context and contemporary insights. Our three-hour exploration covered significantly more territory than would be possible on foot, including the sprawling Špilberk Castle complex, the functionalist colony of Nový Dům, and the lush Lužánky Park—the oldest public park in the Czech Republic.

What makes segway exploration particularly valuable in Brno is the city's topographical variety. The historic center sits in a basin surrounded by hills, creating distinct neighborhoods with different architectural characters. The effortless uphill glide of the segway allowed me to appreciate these transitions without the distraction of physical exertion.

The most memorable segment was traversing the modernist White Colony (Bílá čtvrť) designed by renowned architect Ernst Wiesner in the 1920s. The clean lines and rational planning principles are best appreciated at a pace slightly faster than walking but slower than cycling—precisely what the segway provides. For those planning to document their explorations, a phone gimbal proves invaluable for capturing smooth video footage while navigating the varied terrain.

Brno's culinary scene reflects its position as a university town—innovative yet affordable, with establishments catering to student budgets without sacrificing quality or creativity. This creates an ideal environment for budget-conscious travelers seeking authentic experiences.

The city's food landscape can be divided into three distinct categories, each offering unique value. First are the traditional Czech hospody (pubs) serving hearty classics like svíčková (marinated beef with bread dumplings) and guláš. Soul Bistro near the main square delivers these dishes with remarkable quality-to-price ratio—a full meal with Pilsner Urquell beer rarely exceeds €12.

The second category comprises student-oriented establishments where culinary innovation meets economic necessity. At Bistro Franz in the university district, I enjoyed a brilliant fusion of Czech and international flavors, with locally-sourced seasonal ingredients transformed through global techniques. Their pumpkin soup with ginger and lemongrass (€3.50) demonstrated how simple ingredients can achieve complex flavors through thoughtful preparation.

Finally, Brno offers a growing scene of food markets and halls where multiple vendors share space, allowing visitors to sample widely without committing to full restaurant meals. Lokál U Caipla functions as both traditional pub and modern food hall, with rotating pop-up concepts from local culinary students testing their concepts before a receptive audience.

For those wishing to explore Czech wine culture, Brno serves as gateway to the Moravian wine region. Rather than expensive restaurant wine lists, I recommend visiting Justwine on Dvořákova street, where self-service dispensers allow sampling of dozens of local varieties in 25ml, 50ml or 150ml portions—an educational approach to wine tasting that perfectly aligns with the city's academic character.