Family Adventures in Sucre: Bolivia's Kid-Friendly Colonial Gem

After twenty years covering sporting events across continents, I've developed a journalist's appreciation for cities that reveal themselves logically. Sucre does exactly that, with its grid layout and compact historic center making it ideal for families with young legs.

The heart of Sucre is Plaza 25 de Mayo, a central square that serves as both geographical and cultural compass. Surrounded by the striking Metropolitan Cathedral, Casa de la Libertad (where Bolivia declared independence), and numerous cafes with outdoor seating, it's the perfect place to begin your family orientation.

On our first morning, we started with hot chocolate and saltenas (Bolivia's answer to empanadas) at a corner cafe, watching the city wake up while the kids mapped out the square's perimeter. Unlike the frenetic energy of La Paz, Sucre moves at a gentler pace, with traffic restrictions in the historic center creating a pedestrian-friendly environment.

For families concerned about navigation, I recommend downloading the Maps.me app before arrival. Unlike other mapping apps, it works remarkably well offline throughout Bolivia and marks smaller attractions and playgrounds that Google Maps often misses. Having comprehensive offline maps proved invaluable when the kids spotted a playground three blocks away that wasn't on our itinerary but became a daily stop.

If your children are anything like my friends' kids, the word 'dinosaur' triggers immediate excitement. Sucre houses one of South America's most remarkable paleontological sites at Cal Orck'o, just 5km from the city center. Here, an almost vertical limestone wall displays over 5,000 dinosaur footprints—the largest collection in the world.

The site was accidentally discovered in the 1990s when workers at the nearby FANCESA cement factory cleared away hillside. What emerged was a paleontological treasure: tracks from at least eight dinosaur species preserved across a massive wall that was once a muddy lakeshore.

The Parque Cretácico (Cretaceous Park) built around the site balances education with entertainment. Life-sized dinosaur models greet visitors at the entrance, while guided tours (available in English) explain the significance of the tracks. The park's viewing platform offers spectacular vistas of both the footprints and surrounding mountains.

For the best experience, time your visit for the 12:30 tour when the sun hits the wall at the optimal angle to see the footprints clearly. We arrived earlier and spent the morning at the interactive museum, where the kids excavated 'fossils' in a sand pit designed for young paleontologists.

Packing a compact binoculars proved invaluable for helping the younger children spot details on the distant wall. The 9-year-old didn't relinquish them for the entire visit, scanning the cliff face like a seasoned researcher.

As someone who's spent decades documenting how sports and games reflect cultural identity, I was particularly interested in how Sucre could engage children with Bolivia's rich heritage. The answer came through several interactive museums and workshops that transform cultural education into hands-on play.

The Museo de Arte Indígena ASUR (ASUR Indigenous Art Museum) quickly became our group's unexpected favorite. Rather than displaying textiles behind glass, this living museum invites visitors to watch weavers from surrounding communities demonstrate their craft. The museum offers child-friendly weaving workshops where even the 6-year-old created a simple bracelet using traditional techniques. The pride on her face when she finished—knowing she'd learned a skill passed down through generations—was priceless.

For a more active cultural experience, we visited the Espacio Cultural Origenes, which presents traditional Bolivian dances in an intimate theater. What makes this performance special for families is the post-show interaction, where dancers invite children on stage to learn basic steps. The 12-year-old, initially reluctant, ended up leading his siblings in an impromptu dance-off with the performers.

Sucre's chocolate workshops provide another sensory gateway into local culture. At the Chocolate Museum (Para Ti), children learn about Bolivia's cacao heritage while making their own chocolate creations to take home. The hands-on experience connects kids to Bolivia's agricultural traditions through a medium they universally appreciate—chocolate.

I've found that cultural education sticks best when children can touch, create, and participate. In Sucre, museums and workshops understand this principle beautifully, offering experiences that engage young travelers as participants rather than spectators.

While Sucre's historic center offers plenty to fill several days, the surrounding countryside provides the breathing room active families need. Having covered rugby matches across New Zealand's varied landscapes, I've developed an appreciation for how outdoor experiences can balance cultural sightseeing—especially important when traveling with children who need to burn energy.

The Maragua Crater, about two hours from Sucre, became our group's consensus highlight. This geological wonder—a circular valley surrounded by multicolored mountains—looks like something from another planet. The crater was formed not by meteor impact but by erosion of differently colored rock strata, creating a natural amphitheater that houses traditional communities.

We arranged a day trip through Condor Trekkers, a non-profit tour company that returns proceeds to the indigenous communities they visit. The moderately challenging hike was manageable even for the 6-year-old, though we carried a child carrier backpack for tired moments. The kids were fascinated by the dinosaur footprints visible along the trail—different from those at Cal Orck'o but equally impressive in their natural setting.

For families seeking a shorter excursion, the small town of Tarabuco hosts a renowned Sunday market just 65km from Sucre. Here, the Yampara people gather in traditional dress, selling textiles and crafts. Unlike markets geared toward tourists, Tarabuco primarily serves local communities, offering an authentic glimpse into rural Bolivian life. The children were entranced by the traditional clothing, particularly the elaborate helmets worn by men—replicas of the Spanish conquistador headgear, representing a fascinating historical inversion where the symbols of colonizers have been appropriated by the colonized.

These day trips provide natural conversation starters about environmental conservation and cultural preservation—topics I've found children are remarkably receptive to when presented through direct experience rather than abstract discussion.

Accommodation in Sucre offers excellent value for families, with numerous colonial buildings converted into boutique hotels and guesthouses. We chose Villa Oropeza, a restored mansion with a central courtyard where the kids could safely play while adults enjoyed morning coffee. The family suite with two connecting rooms cost less than a single standard room would in most European cities.

Many mid-range hotels in Sucre include breakfast and offer spacious family rooms or apartments. For longer stays, consider Airbnb options in the historic center, where beautifully renovated apartments often feature rooftop terraces with panoramic views of the white city and surrounding mountains.

Sucre's culinary scene balances international options for less adventurous eaters with opportunities to explore Bolivian cuisine. El Patio Salteñeria became our morning ritual—their saltenas (savory pastries filled with meat, vegetables and a slightly sweet sauce) were declared 'better than empanadas' by the normally picky 9-year-old. The trick to eating them like a local: bite off one corner and sip the broth before tackling the filling.

For dinner, Florin offers a menu that bridges Bolivian and international dishes in a garden setting with a small play area. The 12-year-old discovered silpancho, a Sucre specialty of breaded meat topped with fried egg and served over rice and potatoes—a dish that became his measurement standard for all subsequent meals.

Market 25 de Mayo provides a fascinating food adventure for families. The organized chaos of the market's three levels introduces children to new fruits, vegetables, and prepared foods in an authentic setting. The kids were particularly fascinated by the juice vendors, who create colorful blends from fruits they'd never encountered before. For about 5 bolivianos (less than $1), they could choose their own combination—a low-risk way to encourage culinary experimentation.

One of the joys of traveling as a sports journalist has been experiencing how communities celebrate together—whether through sporting events or cultural festivals. Sucre offers numerous opportunities for families to witness and participate in local celebrations throughout the year.

During our spring visit, we accidentally timed our trip to coincide with the Festival of San Roque. The streets around San Roque church transformed for processions featuring traditional dance groups in elaborate costumes. Rather than keeping children at a distance, local families encouraged our young companions to join the festivities. The 6-year-old was delighted when dancers placed a flower garland around her neck, making her feel part of the celebration rather than just a spectator.

Sucre's calendar includes numerous festivals where families are welcome participants. Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week) features processions with elaborate carpets made from colored sawdust—children are often invited to help create these temporary artworks. September's Fiesta de la Virgen de Guadalupe honors the city's patron saint with parades where local schools participate, making it especially relatable for young visitors.

Even without major festivals, weekends in Plaza 25 de Mayo often feature impromptu performances, craft markets, or community gatherings. Sunday afternoons typically bring local families to the plaza, creating natural opportunities for children to interact across language barriers through universal games like tag or football.

For recording these special moments, I relied on my compact camera which captures excellent video and photos without being intrusive during community celebrations. The flip screen proved perfect for taking low-angle shots of dance performances and processions from a child's perspective.