Tasting Fairmont: West Virginia's Surprising Culinary Capital Revealed

My scientific mind appreciates origin stories, and Fairmont offers one of America's most fascinating food genesis tales. The pepperoni roll—a seemingly simple combination of spicy cured meat baked inside soft white bread—was born here in the 1920s as a practical lunch for coal miners. Italian immigrant Giuseppe 'Joseph' Argiro at Country Club Bakery created this portable, no-refrigeration-needed meal that would forever change West Virginia's culinary identity.

Country Club Bakery still operates from its unassuming storefront, and their original recipe remains largely unchanged. The magic happens when the oils from the pepperoni permeate the bread during baking, creating a harmony of flavors that transcends its humble ingredients. I conducted my own informal comparative analysis (purely for research purposes, of course) by sampling pepperoni rolls from multiple Fairmont establishments.

The scientific conclusion? While variations exist—some including cheese, peppers, or sauce—nothing quite matches the elegant simplicity of the original. I found myself returning to Country Club Bakery three times in one weekend, much to the amusement of the friendly staff.

As an epidemiologist, I'm fascinated by how migration patterns shape cultural landscapes. Fairmont's robust Italian food scene stems directly from the wave of Italian immigrants who arrived in the early 20th century to work in coal mines and railroads. Today, their culinary legacy thrives in family-owned establishments that have operated for generations.

My first evening led me to Muriale's Italian Kitchen, a Fairmont institution since 1969. The restaurant exudes old-world charm with red-checkered tablecloths and walls adorned with family photographs. Their homemade pasta is transcendent—particularly the rigatoni with their signature red sauce that simmers for hours, developing complex flavors that speak to decades of tradition.

To capture these authentic flavors at home, I purchased a pasta maker after watching the restaurant's pasta-making demonstration. While my attempts may never match Muriale's perfection, it's brought a piece of Fairmont's Italian heritage into my Mesa kitchen.

Another gem is Colasessano's, famous for both pepperoni rolls and their unique pepperoni buns—a hybrid between a pizza and a sandwich that defies categorization but demands devotion. Their house-made Italian dressing is so popular they sell it by the bottle, and yes, I did pack two carefully wrapped bottles in my insulated food tote for the journey home.

While honoring tradition, Fairmont has simultaneously embraced the farm-to-table movement with enthusiasm. The region's agricultural abundance provides a perfect foundation for this approach, with the Fairmont Farmers Market serving as a vibrant hub connecting local producers and consumers.

The market operates on Tuesday afternoons and Saturday mornings during fall, showcasing seasonal produce, artisanal cheeses, fresh-baked goods, and local honey. I spent a delightful Saturday morning chatting with farmers about their sustainable practices while filling my reusable produce bags with heirloom apples and freshly harvested root vegetables.

This farm-fresh ethos extends to Fairmont's newer restaurants. The Rambling Root merges local ingredients with craft beer culture, offering farm-to-table dishes alongside an impressive selection of West Virginia microbrews. Their beer cheese soup made with local sharp cheddar and Appalachian ale was a perfect antidote to the crisp fall air.

Joe N' Throw combines two of my favorite things—coffee and pottery—in one innovative space. Local artisans create beautiful ceramic pieces that you can purchase and use while enjoying ethically sourced coffee and locally inspired café fare. Their avocado toast topped with foraged mushrooms and microgreens grown just outside town was both Instagram-worthy and nutritionally impressive.

My epidemiological research has often focused on dietary patterns, but in Fairmont, I temporarily suspended all nutritional analysis in favor of pure hedonistic enjoyment—particularly when it came to desserts and beverages.

Fairmont's sweet scene is anchored by JG's Homemade Ice Cream, a family-owned establishment crafting small-batch flavors that reflect both tradition and innovation. Their black walnut ice cream—made with locally foraged nuts—offers a taste experience unique to Appalachia. I found myself returning daily, working my way through their flavor board with methodical dedication.

For those preferring baked goods, The Poky Dot delivers nostalgia with a side of excess. Their nine-inch-tall meringue pies have achieved legendary status, and while my scientific mind questioned the structural engineering involved, my taste buds offered no objections. I couldn't resist capturing the moment with my smartphone gimbal for a smooth video revealing the interior layers.

Fairmont's craft beverage scene provided another pleasant surprise. Short Story Brewing creates narrative-inspired beers in a cozy taproom that encourages conversation. Their 'Conflicted Character' IPA—balancing bitter and sweet notes—seemed an apt metaphor for Fairmont itself: a town navigating between honoring tradition and embracing innovation.

For non-alcoholic options, I discovered The Joe, where locally roasted coffee meets mixology. Their maple-cinnamon latte made with West Virginia maple syrup provided the perfect morning fuel for my culinary explorations.

Fall in Fairmont brings a calendar filled with food-centric events that celebrate the region's culinary heritage. Timing my visit to coincide with the annual Feast of the Seven Fishes Festival was perhaps my most strategic decision. This December celebration honors the Italian-American tradition of serving multiple seafood dishes on Christmas Eve, though Fairmont has expanded it into a full weekend of activities.

The festival features cooking demonstrations, a street fair, and the centerpiece event: an elaborate seven-course seafood dinner that draws visitors from across the country. I secured my ticket well in advance using my event ticket organizer app to manage all the festival activities.

For a more hands-on experience, I discovered that several restaurants offer cooking classes during the fall season. At Noteworthy Sweets, I joined a small group learning to make traditional Italian cookies under the guidance of a grandmother who measured ingredients by sight rather than cups. Her wisdom about allowing dough to rest—'It needs to dream a little before baking'—reflected the unhurried approach to food that permeates Fairmont's culinary philosophy.

Perhaps most educational was my afternoon at the Frank and Jane Gabor West Virginia Folklife Center, where I explored exhibits documenting the immigrant food traditions that shaped the region. Their oral history collection includes fascinating accounts from Italian families describing how they adapted homeland recipes to Appalachian ingredients—a perfect example of cultural resilience through food.