Flavors of Rabat: A Culinary Journey Through Morocco's Capital City

There's something magical about Moroccan markets at dawn. The medina of Rabat awakens slowly, like a giant stretching after a deep slumber. My favorite way to start a culinary adventure here is to head straight to Souk El Had around 7:30 AM, when the morning light filters through the canvas awnings, creating a kaleidoscope of colors on the ancient walls.

First stop: msemen, those gloriously flaky square pancakes that Moroccans fold with the precision of origami masters. Watching the vendors' hands work the dough is a performance art that never gets old. For about 5 dirhams (50 cents), you'll get a warm square drizzled with honey or stuffed with savory fillings. Pair it with a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice that tastes nothing like the stuff back home.

Don't miss the baghrir (thousand-hole pancakes) either – these spongy delights soak up honey and butter like nothing else. The best ones can be found at a tiny stall near the spice section, run by an elderly woman who has been perfecting her recipe for decades. She doesn't speak much English, but a smile and an appreciative 'shukran' (thank you) go a long way.

After breakfast, wander through the olive vendors, where dozens of varieties are displayed in conical piles. Most will offer samples – the lemony green ones are my personal weakness. This is also the perfect time to pick up some preserved lemons or harissa paste to take home, vacuum-sealed in your food storage bags to keep your clothes safe from spicy leaks!

By midday, when the sun climbs high above Rabat, there's no better escape than the breezy Kasbah des Oudaias. This blue and white fortress neighborhood feels more like Santorini than North Africa, and its elevated position offers spectacular Atlantic Ocean views.

Tucked away in the heart of the Kasbah is Café Maure, a charming terrace spot where time seems to stand still. Their mint tea ritual is the stuff of legends – servers pour the sweet, fragrant liquid from impressive heights, creating a frothy top that's as much about showmanship as it is about taste. At just 15 dirhams (about £1.20), it's one of the best-value experiences in Morocco.

For lunch, I always order their seafood bastilla – a coastal twist on the traditional sweet-savory pie usually made with pigeon. The delicate layers of pastry conceal a filling of spiced fish, shrimp, and vermicelli, topped with crushed almonds and cinnamon. It's a culinary contradiction that somehow works brilliantly.

If you're visiting on a Friday, join the locals for couscous – the fluffy semolina topped with slow-cooked vegetables and tender lamb is Morocco's traditional end-of-week meal. The portions are generous enough to share, which keeps the cost reasonable for budget travelers.

After lunch, wander through the narrow blue streets, where local artists sell their work. I found my favorite ceramic tagine here years ago, which has traveled with me to Albuquerque and still gets regular use. If you plan to take one home, consider investing in a bubble wrap sleeve – nothing breaks the heart quite like opening your suitcase to find ceramic shards!

As afternoon slides into evening, Rabat's ancient medina transforms into a sensory playground. This is when I swap sit-down meals for a progressive dinner of street food treasures, letting my nose guide the way through the labyrinthine alleys.

Start your street food safari at Avenue Mohammed V, where the modern city meets the old walls, then plunge into the medina's depths. First target: harcha stalls. These semolina flatbreads are griddled until golden and served hot with honey or soft cheese. At about 3 dirhams each, they're the perfect walking snack.

Deeper in the medina, follow the crowds to find the best brochettes – skewers of marinated lamb or chicken cooked over charcoal. The smoke signals are impossible to miss! The vendor near Rue Souika has been my go-to for years; his secret blend of cumin, paprika and something he refuses to divulge creates a flavor that haunts my dreams back in New Mexico.

For the brave (and I do mean brave), the snail soup vendors offer tiny cups of broth teeming with small mollusks that you extract with a toothpick. It's surprisingly addictive, with a broth so aromatic it could revive the dead. Just 10 dirhams buys you a cultural experience few tourists attempt.

End your street food crawl at a hole-in-the-wall place locals call 'the sandwich king' near Bab El Had gate. His kefta sandwiches – spiced meatballs stuffed into fresh bread with tomatoes, onions and a generous dose of harissa – are the stuff of legend. Bring your travel napkins because things get deliciously messy!

Between bites, keep your eyes peeled for the incredible street art that's been flourishing in Rabat. Unlike Marrakech, which restricts most artistic expression to formal galleries, Rabat's walls tell contemporary stories through murals and stencils – a fascinating contrast to the centuries-old architecture.

If there's one thing I've learned in my decade-long love affair with Morocco, it's that desserts here aren't just afterthoughts – they're central to understanding the culture. Rabat's sweet scene deserves its own dedicated exploration, preferably with an elastic waistband.

My partner still teases me about the time I made us walk three miles across Rabat in search of the perfect chebakia – those flower-shaped sesame cookies soaked in honey that are traditionally eaten during Ramadan but thankfully available year-round. The best ones are found at Patisserie Majestic near Hassan Tower, where they strike the perfect balance between chewy and crisp, sweet and nutty.

M'hanncha (snake cake) is another must-try – a coiled pastry filled with almond paste and scented with orange flower water. It looks impressive but tastes even better, especially when paired with Moroccan mint tea. For an authentic experience, head to the family-run Patisserie Bennis in the medina, where the recipe hasn't changed in generations.

My personal weakness is kaab el ghazal ('gazelle horns'), crescent-shaped cookies filled with almond paste and dusted with powdered sugar. I've tried recreating them at home in Albuquerque with my stand mixer, but there's something about the Moroccan water – or perhaps the generations of expertise – that makes the original impossible to replicate.

If you're visiting in summer, don't miss the opportunity to try jabane – a refreshing dessert made from fresh cheese, honey, and seasonal fruits. It's the perfect antidote to Rabat's summer heat and surprisingly light after a day of indulgence.

For those with a serious sweet tooth, consider joining one of the pastry workshops offered at Riad Kalaa. For about 300 dirhams (£25), you'll learn the secrets behind these complex confections and take home both recipes and samples. I still use techniques I learned there in my baking adventures back home.

For couples visiting Rabat, I always recommend saving one evening for a special rooftop dining experience. While the city isn't as famous for its panoramic restaurants as Marrakech, those in the know can find intimate terraces with views that rival anything in Morocco.

My favorite romantic spot remains Dar Naji, tucked away near the Kasbah. Their rooftop offers sweeping views across the Bouregreg River to Salé, Rabat's sister city. As the sun sets, the call to prayer echoes across the water, creating a soundtrack that no Michelin-starred restaurant could ever match.

Their tagines are slow-cooked to perfection – the lamb with prunes and almonds has a depth of flavor that tells stories of centuries of culinary evolution. At around 110 dirhams (£9) per tagine, it's not the cheapest meal in town, but still remarkable value for the quality and setting.

For something truly special, book the corner table at Dinarjat, hidden in an unmarked riad down an unassuming alley. Finding it is half the adventure! Inside, you'll discover a courtyard that transforms into a candlelit wonderland at night. Their pastilla – a sweet-savory pie dusted with cinnamon and sugar – is served with theatrical flair that makes for an unforgettable date night.

If you're celebrating something special, The Dhow floating restaurant moored on the Bouregreg offers a unique dining experience. The converted wooden ship serves excellent seafood with Andalusian influences, reflecting Morocco's complex history. Prices are higher (expect to pay around 350 dirhams/£30 per person), but watching the lights of the Hassan Tower reflect on the water while dining is worth the splurge.

For the best sunset photos from any rooftop, bring along a mini tripod to capture the golden hour magic without the blur. Some of my most treasured Morocco photos were taken during that magical moment when the ancient city walls glow amber against the deepening blue sky.