Surabaya Street Food Safari: 15 Must-Try Local Delicacies in East Java

Mornings in Surabaya hit different. By 6 AM, the city's already buzzing with vendors setting up shop, and the air's thick with the smell of frying dough and spices that'll drag you out of bed faster than any alarm.

First stop on my morning circuit was always Rawon. This black beef soup looks like something from another dimension – seriously, it's proper dark – thanks to the keluak nut that gives it that inky color. Found a belter of a spot near Pasar Atom where the broth was rich as anything, served with rice, bean sprouts, and a chili sambal that cleared my sinuses faster than a Texas wipeout. Only 15,000 rupiah (less than a quid) for a bowl that'll fuel you till lunch.

Next up, Lontong Balap. Don't let the name fool you – nothing's racing except maybe your heart rate from the chilies. It's basically compressed rice cakes swimming in a light broth with bean sprouts, fried tofu, and lentil fritters topped with sweet soy sauce and shrimp paste. The best spot's a tiny warung on Jalan Pemuda where the owner's been making the same recipe for 40 years. He laughed at my pronunciation but sorted me out proper.

If you've got a sweet tooth like me, hunt down Lupis – sticky rice triangles wrapped in banana leaves, drizzled with palm sugar syrup and coconut. There's a lady near Tunjungan Plaza who makes them fresh each morning, and they're absolutely banging with a cup of strong Javanese coffee.

For the ultimate breakfast experience though, you need to hit up the Pasar Pucang morning market. I spent three hours there with my travel camera just documenting the food stalls. The camera's flip screen was perfect for sneaking shots of vendors in action without being too obvious. Best 15,000 rupiah I spent was on Nasi Pecel – rice with mixed veggies doused in spicy peanut sauce that'll wake you up better than any coffee.

If there's one food category Indonesia absolutely smashes out of the park, it's sate (or satay if you're being proper English about it). And Surabaya? Mate, it's the unofficial sate capital of East Java.

My absolute ride-or-die has to be Sate Klopo – Surabaya's signature style where the meat skewers get a proper coating of shredded coconut before hitting the grill. The coconut caramelizes around the meat, creating this sweet-savory crust that's just chef's kiss. Found this gem of a spot called Sate Klopo Ondomohen where they've been doing it since the '70s. For about 30,000 rupiah, you get 10 sticks of beef or chicken sate with this mad peanut sauce that I'd happily bathe in.

Then there's Sate Kambing (goat satay) that'll change your life if you can handle a bit of gaminess. The spot to hit is near the Arab Quarter, where this old bloke with hands that tell a thousand stories grills them over mangrove wood. The smoke adds this depth that's just unreal.

For something a bit different, track down Sate Lilit – not originally from Surabaya but you can find it at the Balinese food stalls. Instead of chunks, the meat (usually minced chicken or fish) is wrapped around lemongrass sticks. The fragrance as it grills? Absolute madness.

But the dark horse – the one that proper surprised me – was Sate Kerang (clam satay). Found it at this seaside joint in Kenjeran Beach area where they marinate tiny clams in this wicked spice blend, skewer them, then grill them till they're just cooked. Squeeze some lime over the top and it's game over.

I spent one entire evening just hopping between sate stalls, armed with my portable power bank to keep my phone charged for all the food photos. When you're documenting every bite like I was, having backup power is essential – especially when Google Maps is your lifeline through Surabaya's maze-like streets.

I've had my fair share of noodles across Southeast Asia, but Surabaya's noodle game? Next level, mate. And the beauty is you can feast like royalty for less than the price of a coffee back home.

Mie Pecun was my first proper noodle revelation here. The name roughly translates to 'whipping noodles' – not because they're kinky, but because of how they're thrown about during preparation. Found this tiny hole-in-the-wall on Jalan Kranggan where the chef was literally slapping the noodles against the counter to get that perfect texture. Served dry with minced chicken, mushrooms, and this wickedly spicy chili oil that had me simultaneously crying and reaching for more. Cost me all of 12,000 rupiah (about 60p).

Then there's Mie Lethek – these hand-rolled noodles made from cassava flour that have this chewy, almost rubbery texture that sounds wrong but feels so right. Best spot was this unassuming warung near Sunan Ampel mosque where they serve them in a clear broth with bits of chicken, bean sprouts, and fried shallots. Simple but absolutely banging.

For something with a bit more punch, Mie Akhirat (literally 'afterlife noodles') will test your spice tolerance. Legend has it they're called that because they're so hot they'll send you to the afterlife. Found a spot near Pasar Turi where the chef asked me how brave I was feeling on a scale of 1-5. Cocky lad that I am, I went for a 4 and spent the next 20 minutes with sweat pouring down my face, chugging coconut water like it was going out of fashion.

But the crown jewel has to be Mie Jembatan Merah (Red Bridge Noodles), named after the historic red bridge in the old town. These noodles come swimming in a rich prawn broth with fish cake slices, prawn dumplings, and a dollop of sambal that ties everything together. The best spot is actually called Mie Jembatan Merah – been there since 1920, and you can tell they've perfected their craft.

After all that spice, I was beyond grateful for my insulated water bottle that kept my water ice-cold through the sweltering Surabaya heat. Nothing worse than lukewarm water when your mouth's on fire from Indonesian chilies!

I've got a proper sweet tooth, and Surabaya's dessert scene did not disappoint. The best bit? Most of these treats will set you back less than a quid, so you can try loads without breaking the bank.

Es Campur is basically Indonesia's answer to a sundae, but way more interesting. It's a mad mix of shaved ice, condensed milk, grass jelly, avocado chunks, jackfruit, and these colorful jellies that I couldn't name if I tried. Found this legendary spot near Tunjungan Plaza where they pile it so high it's practically an architectural achievement. Perfect for those sweltering Surabaya afternoons when you're melting faster than the ice in your bowl.

Martabak Manis is what would happen if a pancake and a stuffed pizza had a baby – and that baby was dipped in butter. It's this thick, sweet pancake filled with chocolate, cheese, peanuts, or condensed milk (or all of the above if you're a legend). The best one I found was at this night market stall on Jalan Kranggan where they fold it like a massive book and slice it into squares. Shared one with some local students I met, and we demolished it in about 2 minutes flat.

Klepon are these little green rice flour balls filled with liquid palm sugar and rolled in grated coconut. They look like innocent little golf balls but bite into them and molten sugar explodes in your mouth. Proper addictive. There's this old lady near Pasar Atom who makes them fresh throughout the day – just follow the queue of locals.

Then there's Es Kacang Ijo – a sweet mung bean soup served cold with coconut milk and these chewy rice balls. Sounds bizarre but trust me, it's refreshing and not too sweet. Perfect nightcap after a day of heavy eating.

My absolute favorite though has to be Pisang Goreng (fried bananas) – but not just any fried bananas. Found this stall near Surabaya Zoo that coats them in this crispy batter with sesame seeds, then serves them with a scoop of chocolate ice cream. Simple but absolutely game-changing.

I documented all these sweet adventures with my smartphone gimbal which was brilliant for capturing smooth food videos for my Instagram stories. When you're trying to film one-handed while holding a melting dessert in 30°C heat, having a stabilizer makes all the difference between professional-looking content and a shaky mess.

When the sun dips below Surabaya's skyline, that's when the real food magic happens. The night markets kick off, and mate, it's like the culinary Olympics but with plastic stools and fairy lights.

Kya-Kya Kembang Jepun in Chinatown transforms after dark into this massive food bazaar that'll have your senses in overdrive. First thing that grabbed me was Tahu Tek – this mad dish of fried tofu, potatoes, bean sprouts, and rice cake doused in this thick peanut sauce with a black shrimp paste that looks dodgy but tastes divine. The stall I found had this queue snaking around the corner, but the 10-minute wait was worth every second.

Nearby, I stumbled on Rujak Cingur – probably the most 'out there' dish for Western palates because it features sliced cow nose. Yeah, you read that right. Mixed with vegetables, bean sprouts, pineapple, and this black sauce made from petis (fermented shrimp paste), it's this sweet-savory-tangy combo that's weirdly addictive. Took me three attempts to actually try it, but now I'm proper obsessed.

Lontong Kupang was another revelation – these tiny clams the size of your fingernail served with rice cakes in a clear soup with this intense tamarind kick. Found this legendary spot where the guy's been selling it for 40 years from the same cart. Just 15,000 rupiah for a bowl that'll change your life.

For the brave souls, hunt down Kikil – cow's feet soup with a clear broth that's had chili, lime, and shallots added. The texture's a bit gelatinous but the flavor is next level. There's a spot near Jembatan Merah Plaza where they serve it with these crispy crackers that add the perfect crunch.

The night markets are also where you'll find the best Bakso (meatball soup) in town. Not those tiny European meatballs – we're talking tennis ball-sized spheres of beef or chicken in this clear broth with noodles, fried shallots, and as much sambal as you can handle. The cart with the longest queue near Tunjungan Plaza serves a legendary version.

Navigating these night markets after dark can be tricky, which is why I always carry my headlamp in my daypack. Sounds excessive, but when you're trying to find your way back through dimly lit alleys after feasting, or reading menus in poorly lit stalls, having hands-free lighting is a game-changer. Plus, it makes for great dramatic food photos when you need extra light!