From African Colonial Posts to Taiwanese Temples: Contrasting Historical Journeys

Landing in Kasane feels like arriving at the edge of something vast and untamed. This small town sitting at the confluence of four nations (Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe) carries the weight of colonial history in ways both obvious and subtle.

The Old Colonial Police Station stands as a stark reminder of British influence, its whitewashed walls almost blindingly bright against the earthy landscape. Built in the early 1900s, this structure now serves as a museum chronicling the region's complex colonial past. Walking through its rooms, I found myself tracing fingers along maps showing how European powers carved up Africa with ruler-straight lines, oblivious to tribal territories and ecological boundaries.

What makes Kasane unique is how colonial history exists alongside natural splendor. After examining artifacts at the station, I spent the afternoon on a Chobe River cruise, watching elephants drink from waters that once served as colonial transportation routes. The juxtaposition is jarring and thought-provoking.

For history buffs wanting to document these contrasts, I relied heavily on my travel camera with its versatile zoom lens—perfect for capturing both architectural details and distant wildlife that contextualizes the historical sites.

The Seboba Cultural Village offered another dimension to understanding how colonialism affected indigenous communities. Here, local guides from the Subia tribe shared stories passed down through generations about first encounters with European settlers, resistance movements, and eventual adaptation. The narrative wasn't simplified into villains and heroes but presented as the complex human story it truly is.

Flying from Botswana to Taiwan feels like traversing not just space but time itself. Where Kasane's historical sites rarely predate European contact, Taichung's temples have stood watch over centuries of changing dynasties, occupations, and cultural evolutions.

The Confucius Temple was my first stop—a site dating back to 1976, relatively new by Taiwanese standards but representing traditions thousands of years old. Unlike Kasane's colonial buildings constructed to impose foreign power, this temple was built by locals to preserve cultural identity during a period when Taiwan was searching for connections to its Chinese heritage while developing its own distinct identity.

The real historical jewel of Taichung is Dajia Jenn Lann Temple, dedicated to Mazu, goddess of the sea. Dating back to 1730, its ornate dragon pillars, intricate roof carvings, and continuously burning incense create an atmosphere that transported me across centuries. What struck me most was how living this history feels—not preserved behind glass like museum pieces, but actively engaged with through daily worship and annual festivals.

While exploring these temples, I found my travel journal indispensable for sketching architectural details and jotting down the stories shared by temple caretakers. There's something about the physical act of writing that helps me process these deeply layered historical experiences.

Wandering through the nearby Lukang Old Street provided context for how ordinary people lived alongside these magnificent temples. The preserved merchant houses, ancient wells, and narrow alleyways speak to a commercial history that supported religious life. I spent hours practicing my amateur calligraphy in a 19th-century tea house, attempting to capture the essence of places where art, commerce, and spirituality have been intertwined for centuries.

One of the most striking contrasts between these destinations is whose stories are centered in historical narratives. In Kasane, much of the documented history begins with European arrival, with indigenous perspectives often relegated to oral traditions or archaeological findings. The Chobe National Museum makes valiant efforts to balance these narratives, but colonial record-keeping means written history often privileges European experiences.

By contrast, Taichung's historical sites largely represent indigenous Chinese and Taiwanese perspectives, with colonial influences from Japanese occupation (1895-1945) acknowledged but not centered. At the Taiwan Museum of History in Taichung, I was fascinated by exhibits showing how Taiwanese people adapted foreign influences while maintaining core cultural practices during various occupations.

This contrast made me reflect on my own complex heritage—born in Korea but raised in American culture, always navigating between different historical narratives. It's perhaps why I find these cross-cultural historical journeys so personally meaningful.

To fully appreciate these nuanced historical layers, I found myself constantly referencing my travel guidebook for Taichung, while in Kasane I relied more heavily on local guides whose knowledge far surpassed any printed material.

The most profound difference might be in how history is preserved. In Kasane, conservation efforts focus on protecting buildings and artifacts from the harsh African climate. In Taichung, preservation often means continuing traditions—the same ceremonies performed for centuries, the same incense lit by different hands across generations.

My favorite way to absorb historical landscapes is on two wheels, and both destinations offered remarkable cycling experiences that connected historical sites in ways impossible by car or tour bus.

In Kasane, I rented a mountain bike to follow colonial-era trade routes that now serve as game viewing roads. Pedaling past the old administrative buildings while giraffes watched from nearby acacia trees created a surreal juxtaposition of colonial history and natural splendor. The 19th-century trading post ruins, now reclaimed by baobab trees and visited primarily by vervet monkeys, spoke volumes about the temporary nature of human structures in this environment.

Taichung's cycling experience couldn't have been more different. The city's excellent bike share system allowed me to create my own temple-hopping route. The dedicated cycling paths connecting historical sites made for an efficient and environmentally friendly historical tour. The highlight was the 12-kilometer Greenway that links several ancient temples while passing through neighborhoods that span different historical periods—from ancient Chinese architecture to Japanese colonial buildings to modern Taiwanese designs.

For serious cycling history buffs, I can't recommend my handlebar bag highly enough. It kept my camera, journal, and historical reference materials easily accessible without having to dismount constantly.

What struck me most was how cycling allowed me to experience historical transitions more organically. Rather than teleporting between sites in a taxi, I could observe how architectural styles evolved between neighborhoods, how temple density increased near former commercial centers, and how colonial buildings were strategically positioned for surveillance of local populations.

No historical journey is complete without exploring culinary traditions, which often preserve cultural memories even when buildings crumble or written records are lost.

In Kasane, I discovered how colonial influence transformed local cuisine through the introduction of new ingredients and cooking techniques. At the River Lodge's heritage dinner, I sampled seswaa (pounded meat) prepared in cast iron pots introduced by European traders but seasoned with indigenous herbs that predated colonial contact by millennia. The fusion wasn't just delicious—it was edible history.

Taichung's night markets offered a different kind of culinary time travel. At Fengjia Night Market, I found food stalls whose recipes have remained virtually unchanged for generations. The sun cake (太陽餅) bakeries, some operating since the early 1900s, continue using traditional methods that connect modern diners to Ming Dynasty culinary traditions.

Perhaps the most fascinating aspect was tracing tea culture across both destinations. In Botswana, afternoon tea traditions introduced during British colonization have been adapted into uniquely African experiences, often incorporating local rooibos and served alongside indigenous pastries. In Taiwan, tea ceremonies reflect centuries of Chinese influence but with distinct Taiwanese innovations in brewing techniques and presentation.

While exploring these culinary traditions, I relied on my travel water filter to stay hydrated without contributing to plastic waste—particularly important in Kasane where water conservation is crucial and disposable bottles create significant environmental challenges near historical sites.