7 Captivating Historical Sites in Pecs: Hungary's Ancient Roman Heritage Revealed

My design-trained eye was immediately drawn to the geometric precision of the Early Christian Necropolis, a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to the 4th century. What appears modest from street level reveals itself as an extraordinary underground network of burial chambers adorned with some of the earliest Christian frescoes in Europe.

During my visit with my friend Elena last spring, we joined a small guided tour (book in advance during peak seasons) that took us through dimly lit corridors where biblical scenes painted in rich earth tones have survived sixteen centuries. The burial chambers feature remarkably preserved murals depicting biblical stories like Daniel in the lions' den and Jonah and the whale.

What struck me most was how the Roman artisans used design principles that still resonate today—creating visual hierarchies through color and scale, guiding the viewer's eye through narrative sequences. I spent nearly an hour sketching the geometric patterns that frame these ancient images, noting how they influenced later Byzantine designs I'd documented in Turkey.

Before visiting, I downloaded the Pecs Audio Guide to my phone, which provided excellent historical context while leaving my hands free for photography and sketching.

The jewel of Pecs' Roman heritage is undoubtedly the Cella Septichora, a unique seven-apsed structure that represents the pinnacle of early Christian architectural innovation. When I visited with my husband during our anniversary trip, we timed our arrival for late afternoon when the slanting sunlight through the modern glass roof creates a magical interplay with the ancient stones below.

What makes this site particularly special is the modern architectural intervention—a brilliant example of contemporary design enhancing rather than competing with historical elements. The glass walking surfaces allow visitors to literally hover above history, creating what designers call a 'layered user experience.'

I was fascinated by the acoustic properties of the space. Standing in the center of the seven apses creates a surprising amplification effect—something the original architects surely understood about sound design. My husband and I whispered to each other from opposite sides of the chamber and could hear perfectly, a moment of connection across the space that felt symbolic of our journey together.

The visitor center includes excellent multilingual displays explaining the burial rituals and symbolic meanings of the space. I found my pocket binoculars invaluable for examining ceiling details that would otherwise be missed.

While not purely Roman, the Cathedral of St. Peter and Paul stands on the foundations of a 4th-century Roman cemetery and later early Christian basilica. My design sensibilities were immediately drawn to how the building narrates Hungary's history through architectural elements—Roman foundations supporting Romanesque walls, Gothic chapels, and Renaissance details.

During my visit last autumn, I was fortunate to arrive during a chamber music rehearsal. The acoustics—a result of thoughtful medieval design principles—transformed Bach into something transcendent. I sat sketching the interior for nearly an hour, noting how the light changed as clouds passed overhead.

The cathedral's crypt contains visible Roman elements, and the surrounding archaeological area reveals layers of history through expertly designed exhibition spaces. What impressed me most was how the modern curators used lighting design to highlight different historical periods—cool blues for Roman elements, warmer ambers for medieval features.

For photography enthusiasts like myself, the cathedral presents both challenges and rewards. I found my camera lens filter kit essential for managing the dramatic light contrasts between the bright windows and shadowed interiors.

Just outside the city center lies a less-visited but equally fascinating site—the remains of a Roman villa with an attached early Christian mausoleum. What makes this site special is how it demonstrates the transition from pagan Roman life to early Christianity within a single household.

When I visited with friends last summer, we practically had the place to ourselves. The site features remarkably preserved mosaic floors with geometric patterns that could easily inspire contemporary textile designs (something I immediately sketched into my travel journal for future reference).

The mausoleum contains subtle Christian symbols integrated into traditional Roman decorative elements—a visual representation of cultural transition that speaks volumes about how design evolves during periods of social change. As someone who's studied how visual communication adapts across cultural boundaries, I found this site particularly meaningful.

The on-site museum displays artifacts from daily Roman life in Pannonia (the Roman name for this region), including jewelry, cookware, and building materials. What fascinated me was seeing how Roman design principles—proportion, balance, and attention to detail—manifested even in everyday objects.

After exploring the villa, we enjoyed a picnic in the adjacent garden where interpretive signs explain the types of plants Romans would have cultivated. The insulated water bottle I always travel with kept our drinks perfectly chilled despite the summer heat.

While primarily medieval in their current form, Pecs' defensive walls incorporate substantial Roman elements, particularly in their foundations. During my second visit to the city, I participated in an architectural walking tour that revealed how Roman building techniques influenced later fortifications.

The Barbican (a fortified gateway) offers perhaps the most visible example of this architectural continuity. Our guide pointed out the distinctive Roman bonding patterns in the lower sections—a technical detail I might have missed without expert interpretation. What's fascinating is how medieval builders respected and built upon Roman engineering principles rather than replacing them.

I spent a pleasant afternoon sketching the walls from different angles, noting how the defensive architecture created compelling visual rhythms through repetition and contrast. For fellow sketchers, I recommend bringing a travel watercolor set to capture the subtle color variations in the ancient stones.

The walking path along the walls offers excellent views of both the historical center and surrounding hills. My friend Elena and I timed our walk for sunset, when the golden light transformed the limestone walls into a photographer's dream. We found a small wine bar nearby afterward where we discussed how Roman urban planning principles continue to shape European cities today.

No exploration of Pecs' Roman heritage would be complete without visiting the Archaeological Museum, housed in a beautifully renovated historical building near Széchenyi Square. While not a Roman site itself, the museum provides essential context for understanding the city's ancient layers.

During my visit, I was particularly impressed by the museum's thoughtful exhibition design. Interactive displays allow visitors to virtually "excavate" different historical periods, while carefully positioned lighting highlights the craftsmanship of Roman artifacts. As someone who designs educational experiences professionally, I appreciated how the museum balances information accessibility with visual appeal.

The collection includes remarkable Roman glassware that has survived nearly two millennia, intricate jewelry showing surprising stylistic connections to modern designs, and everyday objects that humanize ancient residents. I spent nearly an hour examining the architectural models showing how Sopianae (Roman Pecs) would have appeared during different periods.

The museum offers excellent multilingual information, but I found the audio guide provided helpful additional context about Roman life in Pannonia province. The museum shop also offers high-quality replicas of Roman designs that make meaningful souvenirs beyond the typical tourist fare.

After exploring the exhibits, my husband and I enjoyed coffee in the museum's courtyard café, where we could sketch some of the stone artifacts displayed in the garden while discussing how Roman aesthetic principles continue to influence contemporary design.

Pecs' main square, the elegant baroque Széchenyi Square, conceals a fascinating secret—it sits directly atop the Roman forum, the ancient city's political and commercial heart. While enjoying an espresso at one of the square's charming cafés, I couldn't help but imagine the Roman citizens who gathered for markets and political discussions on this exact spot two millennia ago.

During recent renovations, archaeologists discovered significant Roman remains beneath the square. Rather than hiding these findings, city planners incorporated viewing windows into the modern pavement—a brilliant design solution that connects present and past. Through these glass panels, visitors can glimpse fragments of Roman foundations while contemporary life continues above.

I spent a pleasant evening sketching the square's baroque buildings while contemplating this layering of history. The portable sketching stool I always pack proved invaluable for comfortable urban sketching sessions.

The tourist office on the square offers excellent free maps highlighting Roman sites throughout the city, including some lesser-known locations not covered in standard guidebooks. I was particularly charmed by the small bronze model of Roman Sopianae installed near the northern edge of the square, which helps visitors visualize the ancient city layout.

Don't miss the opportunity to visit at different times of day—morning brings local residents going about their business much as their Roman predecessors would have, while evenings transform the space into a social gathering spot illuminated by thoughtfully designed lighting that subtly highlights historical elements.