Historic Winston-Salem: Exploring North Carolina's Moravian Legacy

The moment I stepped onto the cobblestone streets of Old Salem Museums & Gardens, time seemed to slow down. Unlike many historical villages I've visited across North America, Old Salem doesn't feel like a museum—it feels like a community that happens to be from another century.

Founded in 1766 by Moravians (Protestant missionaries from what is now the Czech Republic), this meticulously preserved district features more than 100 historic buildings. What struck me most was the authenticity—interpreters in period dress aren't just reciting memorized facts; they're actually practicing 18th and 19th-century trades.

I spent nearly three hours watching a blacksmith craft hinges using techniques from the 1800s, learning about medicinal herbs in the doctor's garden, and speaking with a baker who explained how they still use the same sourdough starter from centuries ago. The scent of fresh bread from the Winkler Bakery mingled with spring blossoms, creating what my father would have called 'prākṛtik sangīt'—nature's music.

For photography enthusiasts, I recommend bringing a compact tripod for the interior shots. The historic buildings have limited natural light, and capturing the craftspeople at work without flash (which isn't allowed in many buildings) requires steady hands or support.

One thing I've learned in my travels is that food often preserves history long after buildings crumble. Winston-Salem's Moravian culinary traditions are living artifacts, and experiencing them doesn't require a big budget.

My first stop was Winkler Bakery in Old Salem, where I watched bakers pull thin, crisp Moravian cookies from wood-fired ovens. These spice cookies—often called the world's thinnest cookies—pack incredible flavor into their paper-thin form. The ginger variety transported me back to childhood when my father would bring home special treats after long trips.

For lunch, I sought out Moravian chicken pie—not to be confused with pot pie. This regional specialty contains only chicken and gravy in a flaky crust. The Salem Kitchen offers an authentic version that locals swear by, though I found an equally delicious one at Mrs. Pumpkin's on Reynolda Road for under $10.

To wash it all down, Winston-Salem's coffee scene blends history with modern craft. Camino Bakery downtown serves excellent coffee in a space that encourages lingering. I spent a peaceful afternoon there, jotting notes about my day's explorations in my travel journal, which has accompanied me from the forests of Minnesota to the hockey arenas of Vancouver.

Don't miss trying Moravian sugar cake—a potato-dough pastry topped with butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon. It's traditionally served at Easter, but available year-round at several bakeries.

While Old Salem represents Winston-Salem's early history, Reynolda House Museum of American Art showcases its industrial-age prosperity. As someone who finds solace among trees, I was immediately drawn to the 1917 estate's 170 acres of formal gardens, woods, and meadows.

Built by tobacco magnate R.J. Reynolds, this 60-room bungalow feels surprisingly intimate despite its grandeur. What fascinated me was how Reynolds created his own forest sanctuary within the city—something I deeply understand as someone who seeks out natural spaces for healing.

The house itself serves as an American art museum with works by O'Keeffe, Homer, and Sargent displayed not in sterile galleries but in a lived-in home. I'm no art expert—give me a hockey game or a forest trail any day—but seeing these masterpieces in their domestic context made them more accessible than any museum I've visited.

The grounds offer free access, making this an excellent budget option. I spent a peaceful morning walking the estate's trails, watching spring unfold across the former farm and dairy that once supplied the Reynolds family. The Japanese cherry trees were in full bloom during my April visit, creating a canopy of pink that reminded me of what my father would call 'prakruti ka nritya'—nature's dance.

For outdoor enthusiasts, I recommend bringing a packable daypack to carry water and snacks. The grounds are extensive enough to spend several hours exploring, particularly in spring when the gardens are at their peak.

While most visitors focus on Old Salem, I found myself drawn to Historic Bethabara Park—the site of the first Moravian settlement in North Carolina from 1753. As someone who values getting off the beaten path, this lesser-known historic site offered both cultural insights and natural beauty.

What makes Bethabara special is its combination of archaeological ruins, reconstructed buildings, and a 183-acre wildlife preserve. The Moravians were meticulous record-keepers, allowing archaeologists to uncover the exact locations of their original settlement. Walking through the foundations of the first buildings, I felt a connection to those early settlers that was somehow more intimate than in the more polished Old Salem.

The 1788 Gemeinhaus (community house) contains a small but fascinating museum that tells the story of these religious refugees who created a thriving community in the wilderness. What struck me most was learning about their advanced medical practices and agricultural innovations.

But the highlight for me was the network of nature trails winding through wetlands and forests surrounding the historic area. As I walked beneath towering hardwoods, some surely dating back to the Moravian era, I thought about how these same trees provided shelter, building materials, and comfort to those early settlers. In the quiet of the forest, with spring wildflowers carpeting the ground, I felt the kind of peace that only comes from connecting with both nature and history simultaneously.

The trails are well-maintained but can be muddy after rain, so wear appropriate footwear. I was glad I had my waterproof hiking shoes which have accompanied me on forest hikes from Minnesota to British Columbia.

Winston-Salem offers surprising value for budget travelers, especially compared to larger cities I've visited on my hockey pilgrimages. While there are upscale options like the Kimpton Cardinal Hotel (housed in the iconic R.J. Reynolds building), I opted for more modest accommodations to stretch my weekend budget.

I stayed at the Fairfield Inn & Suites downtown, which put me within walking distance of Old Salem and many restaurants. At around $110/night in spring, it included breakfast and parking—rare finds in most cities these days. The Historic Brookstown Inn offers more character with similar pricing if booked in advance, housed in a former cotton mill with exposed brick walls and wooden beams.

For those on tighter budgets, the Quality Inn Hanes Mall area often has rates under $80 and is just a short drive from historic sites. Winston-Salem isn't a public transportation powerhouse, so having a car is ideal. However, I found the downtown area surprisingly walkable, and rideshare services were readily available and affordable when I needed them.

One money-saving strategy: I visited the local Harris Teeter grocery store upon arrival to stock up on snacks and picnic supplies. This saved me at least $20-30 per day on meals, allowing me to splurge on one nice dinner at Mozelle's Fresh Southern Bistro (their pecan-crusted salmon is worth every penny).

For keeping track of expenses, I've found my travel wallet invaluable. With separate compartments for different currencies, cards, and receipts, it helps me stay organized and stick to my budget while keeping essentials secure.