Ryokan Retreats: Experiencing Hakone's Most Exclusive Hot Spring Resorts

Choosing the right ryokan in Hakone is not unlike selecting the perfect tea—it requires consideration of subtle characteristics that might go unnoticed by the untrained eye. After researching dozens of properties, I narrowed my selection to those with private in-room onsen (hot spring baths), authentic kaiseki dining, and views of either Mount Fuji or Hakone's lush valleys.

Gora Kadan, a former imperial retreat, topped my list for its seamless blend of traditional aesthetics with modern comforts. The minimalist design principles—what the Japanese call ma (negative space)—create an atmosphere of tranquility that's particularly welcome after Tokyo's sensory overload. At Ginyu Ryokan, the architectural integration with the mountainside reminded me of how the best cave systems work with rather than against their natural surroundings.

For my stay, I selected Hakone Ginyu, where each room features a private open-air bath overlooking the valley. The rate (starting around ¥80,000 per night) includes breakfast and dinner, making it surprisingly reasonable for the experience delivered. While researching accommodations, I found my Japan travel guide invaluable for understanding the etiquette expectations and terminology specific to ryokans.

The Japanese approach to bathing mirrors their tea ceremony in many ways—both are ritualistic practices that demand presence and respect for tradition. As someone who's spent considerable time studying tea ceremonies across Asia, I found the onsen experience similarly meditative.

Before entering the bath, there's the cleansing ritual at the washing station—a thorough scrubbing that would make my fire station captain proud with his insistence on spotless equipment. Only when completely clean do you enter the mineral-rich waters, which in Hakone are often rich in sulfur (recognizable by that distinctive eggy aroma that reminds me of certain cave systems).

My first evening at the ryokan, I slipped into my private rotenburo (outdoor bath) as snow began to fall. The contrast between the 42°C water and the crisp winter air created that perfect tension of opposites. Steam rose around me like the morning fog in South Wales' Ogof Ffynnon Ddu caves, and I found myself experiencing that rare state of complete presence.

For those new to onsen culture, I'd recommend bringing a quick-dry travel towel. While ryokans provide towels, having your own ultra-absorbent option is helpful for moving between indoor and outdoor spaces in winter. The lightweight material dries quickly even in the humid bathroom environment.

If there's one aspect of ryokan culture that parallels the precision of firefighting drills, it's the meticulous preparation and presentation of kaiseki cuisine. This multi-course traditional dinner is less a meal and more a narrative told through food—each dish representing the season, the region, and the chef's artistic vision.

At Hakone Ginyu, dinner began at precisely 6:30pm when my room attendant (nakai-san) transformed my living area into a dining space. The first course—a delicate arrangement of winter vegetables shaped to resemble Mount Fuji—arrived on a handmade ceramic plate that seemed to capture the essence of the season itself.

What followed was a progression of small, exquisite dishes: a clear soup with yuzu fragrance that reminded me of the citrus notes in certain Taiwanese oolongs; sashimi so fresh it seemed to melt on contact; and a hot pot featuring local mushrooms and Hakone beef. Each course was paired with sake selections that complemented rather than overwhelmed the flavors.

The standout was a dish featuring local wasabi root freshly grated tableside—a world apart from the paste we get abroad. I've since purchased a traditional wasabi grater to attempt recreating this experience at home, though sourcing real wasabi root in California remains challenging.

The meal concluded with a simple but perfect bowl of matcha tea, bringing the experience full circle to my longstanding appreciation of Japanese tea culture.

While Hakone isn't primarily known as a tea region (unlike Shizuoka or Uji), the ryokans here honor the tea tradition with the same reverence I've encountered in more famous tea destinations. At Gora Kadan, I arranged for a private tea ceremony overlooking their winter garden—an experience that connected deeply with my lifelong interest in tea culture.

The tea master, Tanaka-san, had studied the art for over 30 years, and her movements possessed that same deliberate precision I've observed in the best firefighters—no wasted motion, every action purposeful. The ceremony took place in a small tatami room with a tokonoma (alcove) displaying a scroll with winter-themed calligraphy and a simple ikebana arrangement of pine branches.

What made this ceremony special was Tanaka-san's willingness to explain each step, from the heating of the water (never quite boiling for matcha) to the significance of turning the chawan (tea bowl) before drinking. The matcha itself was exceptional—vibrant green with a perfect froth and balance of bitterness and umami.

For tea enthusiasts visiting Japan, I recommend bringing a travel tea set that allows you to properly prepare tea in your room or even outdoors while enjoying Hakone's views. Mine has accompanied me from Taiwan's high mountain tea farms to Sri Lanka's estates, and now to the ryokans of Hakone.

After the ceremony, I hiked a portion of the Old Tokaido Road, where ancient cedar trees line the historic path. The combination of physical exertion in the crisp mountain air followed by relaxation in the onsen creates a balance that feels quintessentially Japanese.

While the luxury of your ryokan might tempt you to never leave its confines, Hakone offers experiences that complement the serenity of ryokan life. As someone who typically balances relaxation with exploration (you can take the caver out of the caves, but...), I made time for several excursions.

The Hakone Open-Air Museum merges two seemingly contradictory elements—art and nature—into a harmonious whole. Walking among large-scale sculptures with Mount Fuji in the distance provided a different kind of mindfulness than the ryokan, but one equally valuable. The Picasso Pavilion houses an impressive collection, but it was the outdoor works by Henry Moore that most captivated me.

For those interested in geology (a natural extension of my caving background), the Owakudani volcanic valley offers a glimpse into the geothermal activity that powers Hakone's hot springs. The 'black eggs' cooked in the sulfuric waters are said to add seven years to your life—a claim I approached with the same good-natured skepticism I apply to firefighting superstitions.

The most unexpected discovery was Hakone Venetian Glass Museum, where delicate artworks are displayed in a European-style garden. The contrast between this Western aesthetic and the Japanese surroundings created a fascinating cultural dialogue that reminded me of how my grandfather's tea importing business connected disparate worlds.

To navigate between these sights, the Hakone Free Pass offers excellent value, covering the scenic railway, cable cars, ropeways, and boats that make up Hakone's charming transportation network.