Tale of Two Mountain Cities: Exploring Ashgabat's Kopet Dag and Denver's Rockies

I've seen my share of unusual cities, but nothing quite prepares you for Ashgabat. Rising from the desert like a mirage, this city of white marble buildings and gold domes sits cradled in the northern foothills of the Kopet Dag mountains that form Turkmenistan's natural border with Iran.

The mountains here aren't what most North Americans picture when they think 'mountain range.' The Kopet Dag is more subtle – arid, rounded peaks with sparse vegetation that glow an otherworldly amber at sunset. My first morning, I woke before dawn and hiked to a viewpoint just outside the city limits. As the sun rose, I watched Ashgabat's white marble cityscape illuminate against the mountain backdrop – a photographer's dream contrast of human opulence against natural austerity.

Getting permission to venture deeper into the Kopet Dag requires advance planning and usually a guide. I arranged mine through a luxury tour operator who secured the necessary permits and a comfortable 4x4 vehicle. My satellite messenger proved invaluable here – cell service is spotty at best, and having reliable emergency communication gave me peace of mind in these remote areas.

What struck me most was the silence. Unlike the well-trodden paths of North American mountains, here you can hike for hours without encountering another soul. The Kopet Dag feels ancient and untouched, its geological layers telling stories that few outsiders have heard.

Ashgabat defies expectations at every turn. This isolated capital boasts five-star accommodations that would make a sheikh feel at home, yet exists in one of the world's most closed-off nations. I stayed at the Yyldyz Hotel, where the presidential suite offers panoramic views of both the city and mountains through floor-to-ceiling windows.

The luxury here feels surreal – immaculate streets devoid of litter (or often, people), golden statues, and elaborate fountains in a city surrounded by desert. For the best mountain photography, I woke early each day, setting up my camera on my carbon fiber monopod to capture the interplay of light on marble and mountain.

One evening, my guide arranged a special dinner in a traditional yurt set up in the foothills. As we dined on plov (rice pilaf with lamb) and sipped green tea, the mountains turned purple in the fading light. The experience reminded me of sitting with my nonna as she described the hills of her Italian hometown – how landscapes carry the memories of generations.

For couples seeking unique experiences, I recommend splurging on a private sunset picnic in the foothills. Your hotel can arrange this with enough notice, complete with traditional Turkmen carpets to sit on and local delicacies. Just be sure to bring a insulated wine tote to keep your beverages chilled in the desert heat.

Landing in Denver after Ashgabat feels like entering a different dimension. Where Ashgabat's relationship with its mountains seems distant and reverential, Denver embraces the Rockies as part of its identity. The city's energy pulses with outdoor enthusiasm – people discussing trail conditions over craft beers and planning weekend summit attempts like others might plan dinner parties.

I checked into The Crawford Hotel at Union Station, a luxury option that places you at the transportation hub of the city with easy access to mountain excursions. From my room, I could see the distant peaks that seemed to beckon visitors westward.

Unlike Turkmenistan's restricted mountain access, the Rockies offer endless possibilities for exploration. I rented a all-terrain SUV for maximum flexibility and headed up to Rocky Mountain National Park for my first taste of these iconic peaks. The contrast was immediate – well-maintained trails, informative signage, and fellow hikers exchanging friendly greetings.

For serious mountain photographers, I recommend investing in a polarizing filter before your trip. The Colorado sun is intense, and controlling glare and enhancing those deep blue mountain skies makes a tremendous difference in your images. I spent sunrise at Dream Lake, watching alpenglow paint the peaks in hues that reminded me of my grandmother's watercolor paintings.

What fascinated me most about this dual-destination journey was how differently these two cultures relate to their mountains. In Ashgabat, the mountains feel like a distant backdrop – respected but separated from daily life by government restrictions and cultural norms. In Denver, the mountains are woven into everyday conversation, recreation, and identity.

For couples seeking romantic mountain experiences, both destinations deliver but in dramatically different ways. In Ashgabat, it's about exclusivity and unique experiences few westerners will ever have. My partner and I splurged on a helicopter tour over the Kopet Dag, revealing hidden valleys and perspectives impossible to access by foot. Before the flight, I made sure to pack my anti-nausea wristbands – the combination of altitude and helicopter movement can challenge even steady stomachs.

In Denver, romance comes in the accessibility of mountain escapes. We stayed at the luxurious Devil's Thumb Ranch in the nearby mountains, soaking in outdoor hot tubs while snowcapped peaks loomed above us. The ranch's private cabins offer the perfect balance of rustic charm and luxury amenities.

Food cultures reflect this relationship too. Turkmen cuisine in Ashgabat features hearty dishes designed to sustain mountain herders – lots of lamb, rice, and bread. Denver's mountain-inspired cuisine leans into game meats and foraged ingredients, with restaurants like Beatrice & Woodsley creating artistic dishes that pay homage to Colorado's natural bounty.

For mountain photography enthusiasts, I found my lens cleaning kit essential in both locations – Ashgabat's dust and Denver's pollen both present challenges for keeping equipment pristine.

As someone who discovered photography while documenting my grandmother's final journey to her homeland, capturing the essence of these two mountain environments became deeply personal. The technical challenges were as different as the landscapes themselves.

In Ashgabat and the Kopet Dag, the light is harsh and contrasty. The mountains, being more arid, create stark shadows and bright highlights that can trick even advanced camera meters. I found myself constantly using exposure compensation and graduated neutral density filters. The remote shutter release I packed proved invaluable for the long exposures needed during blue hour, when the white marble city takes on an ethereal glow against the darkening mountains.

In Colorado, the challenge is often atmospheric haze, especially during summer. The famous 'purple mountain majesties' can appear flat and distant through a camera lens. I combated this by shooting primarily during golden hour and experimenting with telephoto compression to emphasize the layers of mountains. My hiking hydration pack allowed me to carry extra water while keeping my hands free for camera gear during longer hikes to prime shooting locations.

For couples wanting memorable mountain portraits, I recommend scheduling professional photography sessions in both locations. In Denver, countless photographers specialize in mountain backdrops. In Ashgabat, you'll need to arrange this through your hotel concierge and expect to pay premium prices – but the resulting images against those unique landscapes are worth every manat.