Hiking Monserrate and Beyond: Bogota's Mountain Trails for Every Skill Level

Every Bogota hiking adventure begins with Monserrate, and for good reason. Standing at 3,152 meters, this mountain is both the city's guardian and its most accessible peak. There are three ways up: the teleférico (cable car) for tourists, the funicular for those who enjoy old-world charm, and the pilgrim's path – a steep stone stairway that's been worn smooth by centuries of devotion and, more recently, fitness enthusiasts in colorful trainers.

I opted for the pilgrim's path, naturally. As a former bus driver who spent decades sitting, I relish any chance to put these old legs to work. The trail zigzags upward through dense vegetation, with over 1,500 steps taking you from the bustling city to cloud-level serenity in about an hour. My advice? Start early, around 6-7 AM. Not just to avoid the midday heat, but because after 10 AM, the trail becomes crowded with tourists and locals alike.

The climb is steep but straightforward – no technical skills required, just stamina and comfortable shoes. I noticed many locals practically running up in their everyday clothes, while I was huffing and puffing in my hiking boots. Still, those boots earned their keep, especially on the descent when the occasional rain made those centuries-old stones slippery as the floors of my old Liverpool bus during a proper downpour.

At the summit, you'll find the 17th-century sanctuary, restaurants with eye-watering prices (pack your own sandwiches, trust me), and views that stretch across the entire metropolis. On a clear day, you can see how the city sprawls against the mountain range, a perspective that helps you understand Bogota's geography better than any map.

While tourists flock to Monserrate, Bogotá's residents know that Quebrada La Vieja offers a more serene experience. This trail was actually closed for years due to security concerns but reopened in 2017 with restricted hours and improved safety measures. It's now my favorite hike in the city – less crowded, more wild, and with a genuine sense of escaping into nature.

The entrance is somewhat hidden, tucked away in the upscale Rosales neighborhood. I nearly missed it my first time, even with my bus driver's knack for navigation. The trail follows a creek up the mountain through native forest, with the sound of water accompanying your climb. It's a proper hike – steeper in sections than Monserrate, with rougher terrain that demands proper footwear.

What makes this trail special is how quickly the city disappears. Within 15 minutes, you're enveloped in an Andean forest that feels hours away from urban life. The air gets noticeably cleaner as you ascend, something my old lungs greatly appreciated. Birds dart between trees, and if you're lucky (as I was one misty morning), you might spot a coati scurrying across the path.

The summit offers a different perspective of Bogotá than Monserrate – less panoramic but more intimate, showing the northern stretches of the city. I sat there one morning, sipping from my thermos, watching the clouds dance across the urban landscape below while chatting with a retired Colombian professor who hikes this trail three times weekly. He told me tales of how the mountains once harbored guerrilla fighters, now replaced by fitness enthusiasts and nature lovers – a transformation that mirrors Colombia's own recent history.

Important note: Quebrada La Vieja has strict opening hours (5 AM to 10 AM) and requires registration. Don't be a daft tourist who shows up at noon and argues with the rangers – I've seen it happen, and it's not pretty.

For those seeking a proper challenge, the Three Peaks circuit (Los Tres Cerros) delivers a full day of serious hiking that would give many New Zealand tracks a run for their money. This route connects Cerro de Guadalupe, Cerro de Monserrate, and Cerro de La Cruz in one ambitious loop, offering constantly changing perspectives of the city below.

I tackled this 15-kilometer route on my third day in Bogota, perhaps a bit ambitiously considering the altitude. At 2,600+ meters above sea level, even the starting point has you breathing harder than usual. My decades in Sydney hadn't prepared me for the thin Andean air, and my hiking daypack felt twice as heavy as it should.

The circuit begins at the Universidad Distrital Francisco José de Caldas, winding up through increasingly wild terrain toward Guadalupe. This first peak, marked by its enormous white statue visible from much of Bogota, involves some scrambling near the top – nothing technical, but enough to keep your mind focused on hand placement rather than the growing drop below.

The traverse between peaks is where this hike truly shines. The ridgeline paths offer spectacular views in all directions – the sprawling city to one side and the vast expanse of the Andes to the other. The path narrows in sections, with enough exposure to give you that delightful tingle of adventure without genuine danger.

By the time I reached Monserrate (the second peak), I was grateful for the opportunity to refill water bottles and rest my legs at the sanctuary. The final push to La Cruz tested my endurance, but the sense of accomplishment upon completing the circuit was worth every labored breath and protesting knee joint.

A word of caution: while safer than in years past, this circuit passes through some isolated areas. I joined a local hiking group for this adventure – not just for safety, but for their knowledge of unmarked trail junctions and local flora. The Colombian hikers I met were delightfully surprised to find a British pensioner in their midst and took special care to point out plants with medicinal properties that their grandmothers had taught them about.

Not every hike needs to test your limits. For those traveling with groups of mixed abilities or looking for a gentler introduction to Bogota's elevation, Cerro de La Cruz offers accessible trails and rewarding views without the intensity of the other mountains.

The main path is well-maintained and considerably less steep than Monserrate, making it suitable for families and casual hikers. I spent a pleasant afternoon here, enjoying the more relaxed pace after my three peaks adventure the day before. My knees certainly appreciated the break! The trail winds through pine forests that aren't native to Colombia but provide welcome shade nonetheless.

What makes this area special is the series of connected ecological parks that surround the main trail. Parque Ecológico Matarredonda and Parque Entrenubes offer additional paths through different ecosystems, from high-altitude wetlands (páramos) to native cloud forests. These areas are actively being restored to their natural state, with interpretive signs explaining the ecological importance of each zone.

I met several multi-generational Colombian families enjoying Sunday outings here, with grandparents, parents, and children all participating at their own pace. It reminded me of the British tradition of Sunday walks, though with considerably more spectacular scenery than my childhood rambles around Liverpool parks.

For those traveling with groups, these gentler trails provide an excellent introduction to Andean ecosystems without requiring technical skills or exceptional fitness. They're also ideal for acclimatizing before attempting more challenging hikes, especially if you've just arrived from sea level as I had.

Don't forget to pack a proper lunch for these outings. Unlike Monserrate, there aren't restaurants at the top, just beautiful viewpoints where you can spread out a picnic blanket. I found a small local market near my accommodation where I stocked up on fresh bread, local cheese, and the most delicious avocados I've ever tasted – all for less than the price of a sandwich back in Sydney.

As a former bus driver, I can't help but assess every city's transportation system, and Bogota's is a fascinating study in contrasts. The TransMilenio bus rapid transit system is the city's backbone – a network of dedicated bus lanes with stations that function more like a metro system than traditional bus stops.

For reaching trailheads, however, you'll need to combine the main system with smaller feeder buses or taxis. To Monserrate, the easiest approach is taking the TransMilenio to Universidades station and walking the short distance to the funicular/teleférico station or the pilgrim's path entrance.

For Quebrada La Vieja, TransMilenio to Calle 85 station followed by either a 20-minute walk or a short taxi ride gets you to the trailhead. The Three Peaks circuit starting point near Universidad Distrital is accessible via TransMilenio to Bicentenario station plus a connecting bus.

A word about taxis: while generally safe, I recommend using ride-hailing apps rather than hailing cabs on the street. As someone who's driven professionally in two countries, I appreciate the tracking and accountability these services provide. Plus, not having to negotiate fares or explain destinations in my limited Spanish was a blessing.

For those planning multiple hikes, consider staying in Chapinero or La Candelaria neighborhoods. Both offer good access to transportation and plenty of affordable accommodation options. I stayed at a simple but comfortable hostel in Chapinero for about 20 pounds per night, with a shared kitchen that allowed me to prepare my own trail lunches.

One essential piece of gear that served me well was my money belt. While Bogota is much safer than its reputation from decades past, it's still wise to keep valuables concealed, especially when using public transportation during rush hours. Old habits from my bus driving days die hard – I've seen too many pickpockets in action to be complacent.