Hiking Iceland's Golden Circle: Alpine Adventures Beyond the Tourist Trail

My approach to Iceland has always been methodical, balancing the efficiency I value in my professional life with the authenticity I seek in travel. After three visits, I've refined a strategy that allows you to experience both the iconic sights and the hidden alpine trails without a rental car—crucial for solo travelers looking to minimize expenses while maximizing experiences.

The conventional Golden Circle can be completed in a day, but to properly explore its mountain trails, allocate at least 4-5 additional days. I based myself in Selfoss, a practical hub with regular bus connections to key trailheads and significantly more affordable accommodation than Reykjavík.

For transportation, Iceland's public bus network is surprisingly comprehensive in summer. I purchased the Iceland Travel Card which covers most regional buses and proved to be excellent value compared to guided tours or rentals. For trail navigation, cell service is unreliable in the highlands, so I relied heavily on my Garmin GPSMAP which doubles as a satellite communicator—essential safety equipment when hiking solo in remote areas.

Accommodation-wise, I discovered that mountain huts managed by the Iceland Touring Association (Ferðafélag Íslands) offer the perfect balance of comfort, authenticity, and strategic locations for multi-day hikes. Book these months in advance, especially for summer visits.

While tourists flock to the predictable eruptions of Strokkur geyser, I spent a challenging but rewarding day hiking the Hengill volcanic area, an active geothermal landscape that offers a more immersive experience with fewer crowds. The 18 km circular route from Hellisheiði Power Plant through the Reykjadalur valley presents technical terrain with nearly 800m of elevation gain, but rewards hikers with steaming fumaroles, multicolored mineral deposits, and hot springs you can actually bathe in—all without the tour bus crowds.

The trail begins deceptively easy but quickly ascends into alpine territory with loose scree and occasional scrambling sections. Having tackled similar terrain in the Canadian Rockies, I was prepared with my trusty trekking poles which proved invaluable on the steep descents and stream crossings.

The highlight came midway through the hike when I discovered a secluded hot spring creek where the temperature gradually increases as you move upstream. After checking with my thermometer, I found a perfect 39°C (102°F) spot to soak my hiking-weary muscles while gazing across the valley at the steam vents dotting the mountainside—a far cry from the shoulder-to-shoulder experience at the Blue Lagoon.

What makes this hike special is the combination of alpine challenge and geothermal wonder. The constantly changing landscape—from mossy lava fields to rocky mountain passes to steaming valleys—creates a microcosm of Iceland's diverse terrain in a single day hike.

Þingvellir National Park is justifiably famous as the site where the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates visibly separate and where Iceland's first parliament was established. Most visitors stick to the wooden boardwalks along the main fault line, but my manufacturing background has taught me to look for the less obvious, more efficient paths—in this case, a spectacular highland traverse that provides context for the geological formations below.

The 14 km one-way route begins at the official visitor center but immediately climbs away from the crowds to the highland plateau above the rift valley. The trail is marked with occasional cairns but requires confident navigation skills. What struck me immediately was the dramatic perspective—from above, you can clearly see the massive fissures and fault lines that are less apparent from within the valley.

The terrain alternates between exposed rocky sections and delicate alpine meadows filled with Arctic wildflowers. In late June, I hiked through patches of mountain avens, Arctic thyme, and moss campion that transformed the otherwise austere landscape into a subtle tapestry of whites, purples, and pinks.

The final descent brings you to Lake Þingvallavatn's northern shore, where arrangements for pickup are necessary (I scheduled a local taxi from Laugarvatn, as public transportation options are limited from this endpoint).

What makes this traverse special is the profound solitude—despite hiking on a clear summer day in high season, I encountered only two other hiking parties over seven hours. The silence allows for a deeper connection with this historically and geologically significant landscape than possible on the crowded main paths.

While thousands daily visit the viewing platforms at Gullfoss waterfall, few realize that the river feeding this famous cascade cuts through a spectacular canyon accessible via a challenging but rewarding full-day hike. As a production manager accustomed to seeing beyond the obvious to identify hidden efficiencies, I was drawn to this less-traveled path that delivers a more complete understanding of Iceland's hydrology.

The 16 km out-and-back route begins inconspicuously from the Gullfoss parking area, heading upstream along the Hvítá river. The first kilometer follows a faint sheep path before the trail becomes more established as it enters the canyon. The terrain is demanding—requiring several river crossings where the water shoes I packed proved invaluable. Summer water levels typically reach mid-thigh at the deepest crossing points, with surprisingly strong currents.

What makes this hike exceptional is the progression of the landscape. The canyon gradually narrows and deepens, revealing layer upon layer of ancient lava flows in its walls. About 6 km in, you'll discover a series of smaller but more intimate waterfalls that few tourists ever see, with perfect natural pools for a (very) brief dip if you're brave enough to face the glacier-fed waters.

The ecological transitions along the route are fascinating—from the windswept plateau near the parking lot to the sheltered microclimate within the canyon where Arctic wildflowers and dwarf birch create surprising pockets of color and life.

This hike demands proper preparation. The weather can change dramatically, and the canyon offers few exit points. I monitored conditions carefully and carried my emergency shelter as a precaution against Iceland's notoriously changeable weather.

The key to successfully hiking Iceland's Golden Circle region is strategic planning—something my manufacturing career has prepared me well for. Accommodation options vary widely, but I've found tremendous value in family-run guesthouses around Selfoss and Laugarvatn that cater to outdoor enthusiasts rather than tour groups.

On this trip, I stayed at Héraðsskólinn Historic Guesthouse in Laugarvatn, a converted boarding school with dormitory-style and private rooms that attracts serious hikers. The communal kitchen allowed me to prepare trail lunches and dinners, significantly reducing costs in a country where restaurant meals easily exceed $30 for simple fare. The guesthouse also maintains a hiker's exchange shelf where guests leave unused supplies—I benefited from free stove fuel left by previous guests.

For supplies, the Krónan supermarket in Selfoss offers the best selection and prices for trail food. I stocked up on local flatbread, smoked lamb, and skyr (Icelandic yogurt)—high-energy foods that withstand a day in a backpack.

Gear considerations for Iceland's mountain trails are serious business. Even in summer, weather conditions change rapidly. I layer with merino wool base layers, a reliable mid-layer fleece, and my essential rain shell which has protected me through unexpected mountain storms from Colorado to the Alps. The waterproof breathable membrane has proven its worth repeatedly in Iceland's combination of precipitation and wind.

For footwear, the volcanic terrain demands sturdy hiking boots with aggressive tread patterns. After three Iceland trips, I've found that quick-drying materials are more practical than full waterproofing, as your feet will inevitably get wet during stream crossings.