Hiking Mount Kenya: Ultimate 7-Day Adventure Guide from Nairobi

As someone who's spent half his life behind a steering wheel, I notice things about transportation most travel bloggers gloss over. From Nairobi to Mount Kenya, you've got options that range from comfortable to character-building.

The most straightforward approach is hiring a private driver, which will set you back about 8,000-10,000 Kenyan Shillings (£55-70). Comfortable? Yes. Authentic? Not quite.

For the full Kenyan experience, do as I did and brave the matatus (minibuses). These colorful contraptions are the backbone of Kenya's transport system, much like our double-deckers back in Liverpool, only with significantly more personality and significantly less adherence to schedules. Board at River Road in Nairobi heading to Naro Moru, Nanyuki, or Chogoria depending on your chosen route. Expect to pay around 400-600 Shillings (£3-4) and prepare for a journey that's an adventure in itself.

If you're traveling with a group or value your personal space after three decades of public transport like me, consider splitting a taxi. I used a travel daypack for the journey, keeping essentials accessible while my main pack rode in the boot.

Whichever option you choose, leave Nairobi early. The roads aren't what you'd call 'premium quality,' and the last thing you want is navigating those mountain turns after dark. Trust a former bus driver on this one.

After decades navigating Liverpool's narrow streets and Sydney's congested highways, I've developed a knack for route selection. On Mount Kenya, your choice of path dramatically shapes your experience.

The Naro Moru Route is the shortest and steepest option. Think of it as the express service - gets you there quick but you might miss the scenery. I don't recommend this for most trekkers unless you're pressed for time. The infamous 'vertical bog' section becomes a slippery nightmare after rain.

The Chogoria Route is what I'd call the 'scenic route' - longer but with spectacular views of lakes and valleys. It's the eastern approach and my personal favorite. The initial forest section reminds me of tramping in New Zealand, gradually giving way to moorland that feels otherworldly.

The Sirimon Route offers the most gradual ascent and highest success rates. If this is your first major altitude trek, this northern approach gives your body the best chance to acclimatize properly. This is the route I took on my first Mount Kenya adventure, and it served me well.

For my money, the best experience comes from an up-and-over traverse: ascending via Sirimon and descending via Chogoria. This combination lets you see the mountain's diverse ecosystems without retracing your steps.

Whichever route you fancy, you'll need a solid pair of hiking boots. I've tried budget boots and paid the price with blisters the size of two-pound coins.

Here's my tried-and-tested 7-day itinerary for the Sirimon-Chogoria traverse, the route I completed just last month:

Day 1: Nairobi to Sirimon Gate (2,650m) to Old Moses Camp (3,300m) An early start from Nairobi puts you at Sirimon Gate around midday. The trek to Old Moses Camp is a gentle 9km warm-up through montane forest. Watch for Columbus monkeys swinging overhead - cheeky buggers will steal your lunch if given half a chance.

Day 2: Old Moses Camp to Shipton's Camp (4,200m) This 14km day crosses the vast moorland plateau. The vegetation shifts dramatically as you gain altitude - from forest to heather zones to the alien-looking giant groundsels and lobelias. Reminds me of the Scottish Highlands on steroids.

Day 3: Acclimatization Day at Shipton's Don't skip this! A rest day with a short acclimatization hike up to 4,500m before returning to Shipton's. After driving buses in Sydney's heat, I thought I was tough as nails, but altitude humbles everyone. Use this day to test your headlamp before summit day.

Day 4: Shipton's to Point Lenana (4,985m) to Mintos Camp (4,200m) Summit day! A 3am start sees you scrambling up scree slopes by headlamp. The final approach requires basic scrambling but nothing technical. Sunrise from Point Lenana is worth every labored breath. After summit celebrations, descend to Mintos on the Chogoria side.

Day 5: Mintos to Lake Ellis Camp (3,600m) A shorter day with stunning views of Lake Michaelson below. The Chogoria route's scenery puts those fancy Swiss Alps panoramas to shame, if you ask me.

Day 6: Lake Ellis to Meru Mt. Kenya Bandas (3,000m) Continue down through the bamboo and rainforest zones. The descent is gentle on the knees compared to other routes.

Day 7: Meru Bandas to Chogoria Town and back to Nairobi A final 15km through forest to Chogoria gate, then transport back to Nairobi. Your legs will hate you, but your soul will be singing.

After summiting peaks across five continents on a bus driver's salary, I've learned what gear matters and what's just marketing fluff. For Mount Kenya, you need to prepare for four seasons in a single day.

Clothing: * Layer, layer, layer! I start with a moisture-wicking base, add a fleece mid-layer, and top with a down jacket that's seen me through Nepal and New Zealand. * Waterproof jacket and trousers – the mountain creates its own weather * Good quality hiking socks (3-4 pairs minimum) * Warm hat and gloves – summit morning is properly cold * Gaiters for the infamous boggy sections

Equipment: * 50-60L backpack with rain cover * Sleeping bag rated to at least -10°C * Trekking poles – your knees will thank you, especially if they've spent as many years behind a steering wheel as mine * Headlamp with spare batteries for the pre-dawn summit * 3L water capacity (combination of bottles and bladder)

Miscellaneous: * First aid kit including blister plasters and altitude sickness medication * High-energy snacks – the local food is great but familiar snacks boost morale * Camera – the scenery deserves better than just smartphone photos * Power bank – charging opportunities are limited

Don't be the plonker who shows up with a suitcase (yes, I've seen it happen). And forget cotton clothing unless you fancy feeling perpetually damp and cold.

Remember, you can hire sleeping bags, mats, and even jackets in Naro Moru or Nanyuki, but quality varies wildly. I always bring my own essentials rather than gambling on local rentals.

After 35 years of navigating bus routes without GPS, you might think I'd advocate going guideless. You'd be wrong. Mount Kenya isn't a place for heroics or penny-pinching on safety.

While the mountain is technically walkable without a guide on the main routes, I strongly recommend hiring one, along with porters. Here's why:

1. Safety: Weather changes rapidly, trails become obscured in fog, and altitude sickness can affect even the fittest trekkers. My guide Francis spotted my early signs of altitude issues on day two and adjusted our pace accordingly.

2. Local Knowledge: The guides know where to spot wildlife, understand weather patterns, and share cultural insights you won't find in guidebooks. My guide pointed out plants used in traditional medicine that I would have walked right past.

3. Supporting Local Economy: Tourism provides crucial income in this region. The 30-odd quid per day for a guide is life-changing money locally but probably less than you'd spend on a night out back home.

4. Porter Ethics: If using porters (recommended for multi-day treks), booking through reputable companies ensures fair treatment and wages. Having driven a bus for decades, I appreciate fair working conditions.

You can arrange guides through your accommodation in Nairobi, at the park gates, or through agencies. Expect to pay $30-50 per day for guides and $15-25 for porters. Check they're registered with Kenya Wildlife Service for proper credentials.

If you're determined to go independently, at minimum carry a proper topographic map and compass. Your fancy smartphone GPS won't help when the battery dies at 4,000 meters in freezing temperatures.