Hiking the Mystical Mountains of Palenque: Ancient Ruins & Jungle Trails

After 35 years behind the wheel, I've developed a sixth sense for transportation systems, and Mexico's is fascinating. From Mexico City, you've got options: fly to Villahermosa (2 hours) then bus to Palenque (2 hours), or brave the 12-hour overnight ADO bus journey. Being a budget traveler with more time than money, I chose the latter.

The ADO buses – I must say – put some of Sydney's fleet to shame. Clean, punctual, with reclining seats that actually recline, and surprisingly decent toilets. Bring a jumper though; they crank the air-con to arctic levels. I've learned to always carry my trusty neck pillow for these long journeys – absolute lifesaver for old bus drivers with dodgy necks.

Once in Palenque town, getting to the ruins and trailheads is straightforward. Colectivos (shared vans) run regularly from the town center to the archaeological site for about 25 pesos (roughly £1). Just look for the white vans with 'Ruinas' signs. They'll drop you right at the entrance, no fuss. Reminds me of the local jitneys in Liverpool back in the 70s, except with more chickens and certainly more humidity.

Now, I've hiked mountains across Nepal and New Zealand, but there's something special about combining a decent trek with ancient history. Palenque's archaeological site sits on terraced hills rising from the jungle plain, and exploring it properly requires good legs and lungs – especially in the winter humidity.

The site opens at 8am, and I'd strongly advise being there when the gates unlock. By 10am, tour groups descend like Liverpool fans on match day. The entry fee is 80 pesos (about £3.50) for the archaeological site, plus another 35 pesos for the national park – cheap as chips compared to Machu Picchu's eye-watering prices.

I spent my first day simply wandering the main complex, jaw permanently dropped at the Temple of Inscriptions and the Palace. The limestone architecture against the emerald jungle backdrop is something special. But the real magic happens when you head to the less-visited structures on the outer edges, where the jungle is actively trying to reclaim these ancient buildings.

The site sprawls across multiple levels, with steep staircases connecting different plazas and temples. In my bus driving days, my knees would have protested, but regular hiking has kept them in decent nick. Still, I was grateful for my trekking poles on the steeper sections – they take the pressure off the knees and give you stability on slippery limestone steps worn smooth by centuries of feet.

While most tourists stick to the cleared archaeological zone, the real adventure begins where the maintained paths end. The surrounding Palenque National Park offers a network of jungle trails that would make any mountain lover's heart sing – even if the elevation gain isn't what you'd get in the Andes.

My favorite trail starts behind the Temple of the Cross group. Look for a small path heading northeast into the jungle. This unofficial trail (I'm hesitant to even call it that) follows an ancient Mayan water system through dense forest to several unexcavated mounds – likely temples still sleeping under centuries of vegetation. The trail eventually connects with a small waterfall where you can cool off. Just don't expect signposts or safety rails – this is proper exploration.

Another spectacular hike is the trail to Motiepa Waterfall. Starting from the museum parking lot, follow the path marked 'Sendero Motiepa' for about 45 minutes through jungle thick enough to make you forget what century you're in. The waterfall itself isn't massive, but swimming in its cool pool while surrounded by ancient Mayan territory feels properly magical.

I learned quickly that jungle hiking is different from mountain trekking. The humidity is the killer – within minutes you're soaked through with sweat. I've hiked Himalayan passes at 5000 meters that felt easier than these 3km jungle trails. My lightweight quick-dry shirt became my uniform – it wicks away sweat and dries quickly during breaks, essential when you're dripping like a leaky Liverpool bus in rainy season.

No trip to Palenque is complete without visiting the nearby waterfalls of Misol-Ha and Agua Azul. While not directly in Palenque, these natural wonders sit in the same mountain range and make for a brilliant day trip.

Most tourists book organized tours (about 250-350 pesos), but being the independent sort who spent decades navigating transport networks, I opted for public transportation. From Palenque town, colectivos heading to Ocosingo will drop you at either waterfall for around 50 pesos. Just tell the driver where you're going, and they'll give you a shout when it's time to hop off.

Misol-Ha is a single 35-meter waterfall plunging into a circular pool surrounded by jungle. What most tourists miss is the path leading behind the waterfall to a hidden cave. Bring a headlamp if you want to explore it properly. The real joy here is swimming in the pool while looking up at the thundering water – a proper refresher after days of sweaty hiking.

Agua Azul, about an hour further, is a series of cascades tumbling over limestone formations, creating pools of the most incredible turquoise blue water you've ever seen. The color comes from the high mineral content – reminds me of certain glacial lakes in New Zealand, but warm enough for a comfortable swim.

The hiking here is less about distance and more about careful scrambling over limestone rocks to find quieter pools away from the crowds. I spent hours working my way upstream, finding increasingly peaceful spots to soak my tired legs. My water shoes were invaluable here – they grip wet limestone like a charm and protect your feet from the sharp rocks that hide beneath those beautiful blue waters.

After a day tramping through jungle paths, where you lay your head matters. Palenque offers everything from backpacker hostels to luxury eco-lodges, but I found the sweet spot in the mid-range cabañas scattered around the entrance to the national park.

I stayed at El Panchan, a collection of simple jungle lodges about 1km from the archaeological site. For 250-400 pesos per night (£10-16), you get a basic but clean room with a fan, mosquito net, and sometimes a hammock on the porch. The shared bathrooms are generally well-maintained, though hot water is hit or miss – not that you'll want it in this climate.

What makes El Panchan special is the community atmosphere. The common area restaurant, Don Mucho's, serves decent food and cold beers, and becomes a gathering spot for travelers sharing tips and stories. Reminds me of the old truckers' cafes we'd stop at on long routes, except with more backpacks than HGVs.

For those wanting more comfort, Margarita & Ed's Cabañas offers private bathrooms and slightly better amenities for around 600 pesos. The big advantage here is location – you can walk to the ruins in 15 minutes, meaning you can beat the tour buses arriving from San Cristobal.

If you're truly on a shoestring, Palenque town has hostels for as little as 150 pesos per night. The downside is the 20-minute colectivo ride to the ruins each day. After years of commuting as a bus driver, I prefer paying a bit more to eliminate transport faff.

Wherever you stay, a good sleep mask and earplugs are essential – whether it's jungle creatures or fellow travelers, nights can be noisy. Old bus driver's trick: the right sleep gear makes any bed comfortable enough.