Conquering St. George's Red Rock Wonders: Hiking Zion's Backdoor Trails

Snow Canyon State Park sits just 20 minutes from downtown St. George, yet feels worlds away from civilization. Unlike Zion's often-crowded pathways, these trails offer the gift of solitude—something I've come to treasure as both a minister and a traveler seeking connection with creation.

Our first morning, we tackled the Petrified Dunes Trail at sunrise. As dawn's light painted the ancient sandstone in hues of amber and gold, I was reminded of Psalm 19:1—'The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands.' The undulating stone formations, frozen in time yet ever-changing in the light, create a landscape that feels both alien and deeply familiar to the soul.

For those seeking a more challenging route, the Hidden Pinyon Trail connected to the Three Ponds loop offers a 4-mile journey through diverse ecosystems. We encountered desert tortoises, blooming cactus, and—after spring rains—the ephemeral ponds that give the trail its name. These hidden water sources felt like metaphors for faith itself: unexpected blessings in seemingly barren places.

One cannot fully appreciate St. George's sacred landscape without venturing beyond the hiking trails. My husband and I spent a day exploring the region's stunning backcountry roads on our rented dual-sport motorcycle, which proved perfect for the mix of paved and unpaved routes.

The Hurricane Cliffs Road provides a less-traveled alternative to reach the outskirts of Zion, winding through landscape so dramatic it feels like riding through the pages of Genesis. We stopped frequently to capture photos and simply breathe in the silence—a rare commodity in our busy ministerial lives back in Madrid.

For this journey, I relied heavily on my hydration backpack, which kept me comfortable during our full-day expedition. The multiple pockets allowed me to carry snacks, my compact Bible for impromptu devotionals at scenic overlooks, and even a light jacket for when we climbed to higher elevations.

The Smithsonian Butte Scenic Backway was the highlight—a rugged dirt road requiring some technical riding skills but rewarding us with panoramic views of Zion's backside that few tourists ever witness. This less-traveled path reminded me how often life's most meaningful experiences come when we venture beyond the well-marked trails.

For couples seeking both physical challenge and spiritual metaphor, I cannot recommend the Red Mountain Trail enough. This 9-mile round-trip hike through the Red Cliffs Desert Reserve tests both body and spirit as it ascends over 1,500 feet through increasingly technical terrain.

The journey begins innocuously enough through a sandy wash, but soon requires scrambling up slickrock faces and navigating narrow ledges. My husband and I found ourselves literally supporting one another through difficult passages—a beautiful parallel to marriage itself.

Halfway up, we encountered the 'Slot Canyon' section, where the trail narrows dramatically between towering walls. In this confined space, with light filtering from above, I was reminded of how often spiritual growth happens in the narrow, challenging passages of life.

For this technical hike, proper footwear is non-negotiable. My approach shoes provided the perfect balance of hiking comfort and climbing grip on the sandstone. Meanwhile, my husband swears by his trekking poles for the steep descents that can be punishing on the knees.

Reaching the summit plateau rewards hikers with a breathtaking panorama encompassing St. George, the Pine Valley Mountains, and distant Zion peaks. We spent an hour in silent contemplation at the top, sharing communion with a small flask of grape juice and bread we'd packed specifically for this mountain-top moment of worship.

Water in the desert has always carried profound spiritual symbolism across traditions. In scripture, it represents life, cleansing, and God's provision in barren places. St. George's hidden water features offer both physical refreshment and spiritual metaphor for the weary hiker.

Moki Steps Trail in Snow Canyon leads to one such hidden treasure—a series of natural pools formed in the sandstone after spring rains. These ephemeral waters create perfect reflecting pools, mirroring the sky above and inviting contemplation. We spent a peaceful afternoon here with our waterproof picnic blanket, which packs down smaller than a smartphone yet provided ample space for our impromptu desert picnic.

For those seeking a more substantial water experience, Gunlock Falls (about 15 miles northwest of St. George) transforms dramatically during spring runoff. When reservoir waters spill over the red rock terraces, they create a series of cascading waterfalls that locals call 'Utah's Havasu.' The contrast of flowing water against crimson stone creates a sensory experience that words fail to capture.

During our waterfall exploration, my waterproof phone case proved invaluable, allowing me to capture photos while wading through the pools without worry. These images have become touchstones for meditation in my daily devotionals back home—reminders of how beauty emerges in unexpected places when we remain open to wonder.

St. George's challenging terrain offers couples more than just physical adventure—it creates space for relationship growth through shared challenge and triumph. My husband and I have found that navigating difficult trails together often parallels the journey of marriage itself: requiring communication, mutual support, and celebration of summits reached together.

One evening, we hiked the short but steep Elephant Arch Trail to watch sunset paint the stone formations in fiery hues. We brought along our double camping hammock and strung it between two juniper trees near the arch. Suspended together above the desert floor as stars emerged overhead, we shared dreams and reflections that busy daily life rarely makes space for.

For couples seeking to deepen their connection, I recommend the practice of 'threshold moments'—intentionally marking significant points in your journey together. At Scout Cave overlook, we used our pocket espresso maker to brew coffee at sunrise, creating a simple ritual to celebrate five years of marriage. The combination of caffeine, breathtaking views, and meaningful conversation created a memory that continues to nourish our relationship.

Even when trails became challenging, we found joy in the shared struggle. On the demanding Yant Flat hike (also called Candy Cliffs for its swirling colors), we took turns encouraging each other through difficult sections. Upon reaching the spectacular formation known as 'The Brain,' we sat in wordless wonder at creation's artistry—a shared spiritual experience that transcended denominational boundaries.