Hiking Dominica's Northern Trails: 5 Epic Adventures from Marigot

Standing at 4,747 feet, Morne Diablotin isn't just Dominica's highest mountain—it's a journey through four distinct ecological zones that will challenge your endurance and reward your perseverance. The trailhead lies about a 30-minute drive southwest of Marigot, and I strongly recommend getting an early 7 AM start to beat both the heat and the afternoon cloud cover that often obscures the summit views.

The first section winds through farmland and transitional forest, gradually steepening as you enter the true rainforest. About two hours in, the dense vegetation gives way to stunted elfin woodland, where trees twist into bizarre shapes from constant wind exposure. The final push to the summit involves some light scrambling over volcanic rock—nothing technical, but enough to get your heart racing.

What struck me most wasn't just the panoramic views (though spotting both the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean simultaneously is pretty spectacular) but the profound silence at the top. In our noise-polluted world, that kind of pristine quiet has become the rarest luxury of all.

I packed my trusty trekking poles which proved invaluable on the descent—your knees will thank you for the added stability on the steep, sometimes slippery terrain. The entire hike takes 6-7 hours round-trip, depending on your pace and how long you linger at the summit. When I reached the top, I celebrated with a nip from my flask filled with a local rum I'd discovered the previous day—connecting traditional spirits with the spiritual experience of standing on the island's highest point.

Just a 15-minute drive east of Marigot lies one of Dominica's best-kept secrets: Chaudière Pool. Unlike the heavily trafficked Emerald Pool in central Dominica, Chaudière offers a more intimate experience with nature, often with no other visitors in sight. The trail begins near the hamlet of Bense, following a clearly marked but sometimes muddy path through private farmland (be sure to greet any farmers you pass—Dominicans appreciate the acknowledgment).

After a relatively easy 25-minute hike, you'll hear the thundering cascade before you see it. The trail opens to reveal a deep, emerald-green natural swimming pool fed by a 40-foot waterfall cutting through a narrow gorge. The water temperature hovers around refreshingly cool—a welcome relief after even the short hike in Dominica's humidity.

What makes Chaudière special isn't just its beauty but its perfect natural design. The pool features a deep section ideal for cliff jumping (always check water levels and jump spots first) and shallower areas where you can simply float and gaze up at the cathedral of green overhead. The surrounding rocks form natural platforms for sunbathing or enjoying a packed lunch.

My wilderness training came in handy when I spotted several edible plants along the trail, including wild raspberries and what my grandmother would have identified as medicinal leaves for treating minor scrapes. I always carry my waterproof dry bag to protect my camera gear and valuables during these water adventures—it's proven invaluable for keeping electronics safe while allowing me to document these pristine locations.

Pro tip: bring a mask and snorkel if you have room in your pack. The pool harbors small freshwater fish and fascinating underwater rock formations that most visitors never see.

If you're looking for a genuine challenge that showcases the wild heart of Dominica's northern region, Segment 13 of the Waitukubuli National Trail delivers in spades. This 10.2 km section runs from Pennville to Capuchin (Dominica's northernmost village) and represents one of the most remote and demanding day hikes on the island.

I tackled this trail after three days of lighter hikes to acclimate to the humidity, and I'd recommend the same approach. Starting from the Pennville end (about 20 minutes west of Marigot), the trail immediately plunges into dense rainforest before climbing steeply to ridgelines offering spectacular views of both coastlines. What makes this segment special is its diversity—you'll traverse rainforest, cross several rivers, pass through small rural communities, and navigate coastal cliffs all in a single day.

The middle section features what locals call the 'washing machine'—a series of river crossings where, depending on recent rainfall, you might find yourself wading through waist-deep water. My quick-dry hiking pants proved their worth here, drying within minutes after each crossing rather than leaving me soggy for hours.

The trail is marked with blue and yellow blazes, though some sections require careful attention to stay on route. I found myself drawing on the navigation skills my grandmother taught me—reading the landscape rather than relying solely on trail markers. About three-quarters through, you'll reach an abandoned estate house where you can take a break before the final push to Capuchin.

This isn't a loop trail, so you'll need to arrange transportation at the endpoint. I struck up a conversation with a local fisherman in Marigot the day before who agreed to pick me up in Capuchin for a reasonable fee—these informal arrangements are part of the charm of traveling in Dominica, where community connections still matter more than app-based services.

Just when you think you've seen all of Dominica's natural wonders, the island throws something completely unexpected your way. Cold Soufrière, located about 40 minutes south of Marigot near the village of Penville, defies the conventional logic that sulphur springs must be hot. This unique geological phenomenon features bubbling sulphur pools and vents that remain strangely cool to the touch, creating an otherworldly landscape that feels more like a science fiction set than a Caribbean hiking destination.

The trail to Cold Soufrière is relatively short (about 20 minutes one-way) but moderately challenging due to its steepness and sometimes slippery conditions. What makes this hike special is the sensory experience—as you approach, the unmistakable rotten-egg smell of hydrogen sulfide intensifies, and the landscape gradually transforms from lush rainforest to a stark, lunar-like clearing dotted with bubbling gray mud pools.

My background in distilling gave me a unique appreciation for this natural chemical laboratory. The same sulfur compounds that create challenges in whisky production were here in their raw, elemental form—a reminder of the powerful geological forces still actively shaping this volcanic island.

I spent nearly two hours exploring the various pools and vents, marveling at how the vegetation adapts to this harsh environment. My hiking daypack proved perfect for this shorter adventure, with enough room for water, snacks, and my camera gear while remaining lightweight and breathable in the humidity.

A word of caution: while the pools are cool enough to touch briefly, the sulfur content can irritate skin and damage clothing. Keep a respectful distance from the larger vents, as they occasionally release stronger bursts of gas that you won't want to inhale directly.

For my final northern Dominica adventure, I sought something that combined moderate hiking with spectacular coastal scenery. The trail from Horseback Ridge to Red Rocks delivered beyond my expectations, offering what I consider the most dramatically beautiful coastal views in Dominica's northern region.

This 4-mile (one-way) trail begins near the village of Calibishie, about 15 minutes east of Marigot. The trailhead isn't well-marked, so I recommend asking locally or arranging a guide for the starting point. The path begins with a moderate climb through cattle pastures and small farms before reaching Horseback Ridge—named for its distinctive undulating shape that indeed resembles a horse's back.

From the ridge, the Atlantic coastline unfolds in dramatic fashion, with powerful waves crashing against the rocky shore hundreds of feet below. The trail then follows the ridgeline before gradually descending toward Red Rocks, a stunning geological formation where the coastline's red volcanic soil has been sculpted by wind and waves into fantastical shapes.

What makes this hike special is how it showcases the raw power of the Atlantic—so different from the typically calmer Caribbean side of the island. The constant wind has shaped both the landscape and the vegetation, creating a rugged beauty that feels almost Scottish in its untamed quality. As someone with Scottish heritage, I felt an unexpected connection to this landscape so far from the Highlands.

About halfway through the hike, the trail passes a natural stone arch that frames the coastline perfectly. I spent nearly an hour here, watching Atlantic waves crash through the arch while frigate birds rode the thermals overhead. My compact binoculars proved invaluable for spotting seabirds and the occasional whale spout offshore—January is prime whale-watching season in Dominica's waters.

The trail ends at Red Rocks, where a short scramble down to sea level lets you explore tide pools teeming with small marine life. Arrange transportation back to your starting point, or if you're feeling energetic, the return journey offers equally stunning views from different angles.