Cycling Through Ancient Polonnaruwa: A Sustainable Way to Explore Sri Lanka

Let me be frank—I've done the air-conditioned tour bus thing, and while there's nothing wrong with it, cycling through Polonnaruwa is an entirely different experience. The ancient city sprawls across several kilometers, making it too vast to comfortably explore on foot but perfect for two wheels.

Cycling connects you to the landscape in a way that motorized transport simply cannot. You'll feel the subtle changes in terrain, catch the whispers of breeze through ancient doorways, and have the freedom to stop whenever something catches your eye—be it a perfectly preserved Buddha statue or a family of langur monkeys performing acrobatics in the trees overhead.

Renting a bicycle costs around 500-800 LKR (£2-4) for the day—a fraction of what you'd pay for a tuk-tuk tour. I rented mine from a small shop near my guesthouse, equipped with my compact backpack filled with essentials. The bicycles aren't fancy mountain bikes, mind you—they're basic city bikes, but perfectly adequate for the terrain.

The archaeological site is divided into several groups, and with a bit of planning, you can see the highlights in a single day without rushing. I'd recommend starting at the Archaeological Museum (worth the 30 minutes to get oriented) before heading to the Ancient City.

The entrance fee to the site is steep by Sri Lankan standards—around $25 USD/£19—but absolutely worth every rupee. Once inside, I followed this route:

1. Royal Palace Group: Begin where the kings once lived, exploring the impressive audience hall with its elephant carvings
2. Quadrangle: The most concentrated collection of ruins, including the stunning Vatadage
3. Northern Group: Home to the magnificent Lankathilaka and Kiri Vehera
4. Gal Vihara: Save this breathtaking collection of Buddha statues for last

I tracked my route using my GPS sports watch, which was brilliant for keeping tabs on distance and having a record of my journey. The entire loop is about 15km, easily manageable even for casual cyclists, with plenty of stops along the way.

Winter (December to March) is ideal for cycling in Polonnaruwa. The weather is relatively dry, and temperatures hover around a pleasant 25-30°C (77-86°F). However, don't be fooled—the Sri Lankan sun is fierce even in winter.

I learned this the hard way when I neglected to apply sunscreen to the backs of my hands while gripping my handlebars. Two hours later, I was sporting what my partner jokingly called 'cyclist's gloves'—red, painful sunburn in a perfect handlebar-gripping pattern.

Pack accordingly: a cooling towel was my saving grace. Soak it in water, wring it out, and drape it around your neck for instant relief from the heat. I also relied heavily on my sun hat with its wide brim and neck protection.

Hydration is critical. I carried two liters of water and still needed to refill at one of the small shops near the site entrance. If you're cycling during the winter dry season, the terrain is mostly flat and easy, with occasional sandy patches that might require you to dismount briefly.

What I love most about cycling is how it allows you to discover the spaces between the main attractions—those unscripted moments that rarely make it into guidebooks.

Between the grand monuments, I encountered local artists creating intricate batik fabrics, their hands moving with hypnotic precision as they applied hot wax to cotton. One artist, Priya, invited me to try my hand at the technique, resulting in what can only be described as an abstract blob that she kindly called 'modern art.'

Cycling also gives you access to lesser-known ruins that tour groups often skip. Just north of the main site, I discovered a small, unnamed temple with faded frescoes that had me completely to myself for over an hour.

For lunch, I stopped at a small family-run place where I enjoyed a traditional rice and curry spread served on a banana leaf for just 350 LKR (about £1.50). I washed it down with fresh king coconut water, sipped through a reusable bamboo straw I always carry to reduce plastic waste.

These unplanned encounters—sharing tea with locals, spotting wildlife, or discovering a perfect reading spot beneath an ancient tree—are the true luxury of self-guided cycling, regardless of your budget.

The interplay of light and ancient stone in Polonnaruwa creates photography opportunities that had me constantly reaching for my camera. The site is particularly photogenic during the 'golden hours'—shortly after sunrise and before sunset—when the warm light bathes the ruins in an almost ethereal glow.

To protect my gear from dust while cycling, I used a camera rain cover which works brilliantly for dust protection too. For those long days exploring, I also packed a foldable solar charger which kept my phone and camera batteries topped up throughout the day.

My favorite photography spots included:

• Gal Vihara: Visit late afternoon when the setting sun illuminates the reclining Buddha
• The Quadrangle: Early morning when few tourists are around for reflections in the small pools
• Rankot Vihara: Climb to a vantage point for spectacular sunset views of this massive dagoba

Remember that some temples restrict photography or require additional permits for tripods. Always ask before setting up equipment, and be mindful of worshippers at active religious sites.