Paddling Paradise: Kayaking the Waterways of Maryland's Eastern Shore from Salisbury

Salisbury sits like a humble backstage area to the grand performance that is Maryland's Eastern Shore waterways. Most tourists rush past on their way to Ocean City, creating what my dad would call die perfekte Ruhe – the perfect quiet – for those of us who know better.

The Wicomico River flows right through downtown, offering the rare opportunity to paddle from an urban setting directly into wilderness within minutes. For families looking to base themselves centrally, I recommend the riverside accommodations that won't break the bank. During my weekend here, I stayed at a small Airbnb near the river, which gave me easy access to multiple launch points.

Before hitting the water, stop by the Salisbury Visitor Center on Main Street. The staff there handed me waterproof maps that proved invaluable when navigating the confusing tributary systems. They also pointed me toward Pemberton Historical Park, which offers both natural beauty and a fascinating glimpse into Eastern Shore history between paddling sessions.

If the Pocomoke River were a song, it would be a haunting acoustic ballad that stays with you long after the last note fades. Running dark with natural tannins, these waters wind through one of the northernmost cypress forests in the United States, creating what locals call 'the Everglades of the North.'

From Salisbury, it's a quick 30-minute drive south to Pocomoke River State Park's Shad Landing, my favorite launch point. The moment your kayak slips into these waters, you're transported to a primeval world where bald cypress trees rise from the water like ancient guardians, their knobby 'knees' breaking the surface around you.

During our family paddle here last July, my friend's seven-year-old daughter spotted more wildlife in three hours than she had in a lifetime of zoo visits: river otters, bald eagles, great blue herons, and even a basking turtle convention that must have had at least thirty participants. For this trip, I invested in a waterproof dry bag that kept my camera gear bone dry despite the occasional splash from enthusiastic paddling companions.

The Pocomoke's narrow passages and overhanging branches make it ideal for sit-on-top kayaks rather than canoes. Many families I met were using inflatable kayaks, which proved surprisingly stable and perfect for those traveling without roof racks.

About 40 minutes northeast of Salisbury lies what I consider the crown jewel of Eastern Shore paddling: Blackwater National Wildlife Refuge. As my Pakistani father would say, this place is jannat ki tasveer – a picture of paradise.

Unlike the intimate, enclosed feeling of the Pocomoke, Blackwater offers vast, open marshlands that stretch to the horizon. The water trails here weave through golden saltmarsh grasses that dance in the breeze, creating a mesmerizing pattern that's had me reaching for my camera more times than I can count.

For families with older children or those with some kayaking experience, I recommend the 3-mile Purple Trail that begins at the Blackwater Boat Launch. The trail offers the perfect balance of protected waters and open vistas. During my last visit, I paddled alongside a family from Baltimore who were using a kayak cart to transport their boats from the parking area to the launch – an ingenious solution that saved them from the awkward kayak-carry that usually leaves me with sore arms before I even hit the water.

Birdwatching here is unparalleled – Blackwater hosts the largest breeding population of bald eagles on the East Coast north of Florida. Even in the middle of summer, we counted seven eagles during a single morning paddle. I've found that a good waterproof phone case is essential here, as you'll want your phone accessible for photos without risking water damage.

For families with young paddlers or first-timers, two locations within easy reach of Salisbury offer gentler experiences that still deliver on Eastern Shore magic.

Trap Pond State Park, just over the Delaware line (about 30 minutes from Salisbury), features a serene pond dotted with more of those magnificent cypress trees, but in a much more controlled environment than the Pocomoke. The pond's calm waters make it perfect for novices, and the well-marked water trail keeps you from getting lost. During summer weekends, the park offers ranger-led paddle tours specifically designed for families.

My environmental science background makes me appreciate how they teach kids about the unique ecosystem here – the northernmost natural stand of baldcypress trees in the United States. Last summer, I watched a group of children become completely engrossed in learning about the cypress 'knees' and their function in the ecosystem.

Slightly further north, Tuckahoe State Park offers another family-friendly option with a 60-acre lake that's perfect for building confidence before tackling the more challenging rivers. The park rents tandem kayaks that allow parents to pair up with younger children – something I saw many families taking advantage of during my visit.

For families spending a full weekend, I recommend splitting your time between these gentler waters and one of the more adventurous options. As the Germans say, Übung macht den Meister – practice makes perfect – and these controlled environments are perfect training grounds before tackling the more wild waterways.

One thing I've learned from my cross-country road trips is that preparation can make or break an adventure. For Eastern Shore paddling, this is doubly true – especially when bringing the whole family along.

If you're not bringing your own kayaks, Salisbury offers several rental options. My go-to is Pemberton Outfitters, located right on the Wicomico River. They offer reasonable weekend rates and – crucially for families – have properly sized life vests for all ages. Remember that in Maryland, children under 13 are legally required to wear life vests at all times when on the water.

Summer paddling here means preparing for both sun and sudden afternoon thunderstorms. I always pack a quick-dry microfiber towel that takes up minimal space but comes in handy when someone inevitably gets soaked. For sun protection, I've found that a UPF sun shirt works better than constantly reapplying sunscreen on squirming kids.

Insect repellent is non-negotiable, particularly for evening paddles when the mosquitoes emerge in impressive numbers. After trying various options, I've found that a DEET-free insect repellent works well for most family members without the harsh chemicals.

Finally, don't forget the waterproof bluetooth speaker. As a music enthusiast, I've found that the right playlist enhances the experience – though I keep it at a respectful volume to preserve the natural soundscape for others. There's something magical about gliding through cypress forests with Bon Iver or Fleet Foxes providing the perfect atmospheric soundtrack.