Toronto's Island Escape: Complete Guide to the City's Waterfront Paradise

The journey to the islands is half the fun, and that's coming from a Scotsman who's seen his fair share of ferry crossings. The Jack Layton Ferry Terminal sits at the foot of Bay Street, and though it's nothing like the majestic harbors of Edinburgh, it serves its purpose well enough.

Tickets will set you back about $8.50 for adults and $4 for wee ones (return journey included), which is an absolute bargain considering the day of entertainment ahead. The ferries run to three different docks—Ward's Island, Centre Island, and Hanlan's Point—each offering a different flavor of island life.

If you're visiting in peak summer months (July-August), I'd recommend arriving early or booking online to avoid queues that can stretch longer than a Scottish winter. I made the rookie mistake of showing up at noon on a Saturday in July, and spent nearly an hour in a line that snaked its way through the terminal like an overfed python.

For families with young children and all their associated gear, I'd suggest packing everything in a sturdy backpack cooler rather than lugging multiple bags. Mine has been a godsend for carrying snacks, water bottles, and the occasional cheeky beverage across three continents.

Centre Island is where most families with youngsters head straight away, and for good reason. Centreville Amusement Park offers over 30 rides and attractions that will keep the wee ones entertained for hours. At about $40 for a day pass, it's not the cheapest entertainment, but still far more reasonable than those massive theme parks that require a second mortgage to visit.

My daughter Ellie, now in university, still reminds me of our visit when she was twelve—particularly the vintage carousel and the log flume that left us both soaked to the bone but laughing like a pair of loons. The park has a charming old-fashioned quality that's increasingly rare these days.

Beyond the amusement park, you'll find swan boats for hire on the lagoons, a delightful Far Enough Farm with free admission (a proper farm in the middle of the city!), and sprawling picnic areas perfect for a family lunch. Speaking of which, while there are food stands aplenty, they charge city prices for mediocre fare. As a restaurant manager who can't abide overpriced rubbish, I recommend packing your own picnic in a insulated lunch bag to keep everything fresh, especially if you're watching your pennies.

The Centre Island Beach facing Lake Ontario is surprisingly clean and well-maintained, though the water temperature might remind Scottish visitors of home—bracing, shall we say, even in August.

If there's one activity I'd recommend above all others on the islands, it's cycling. The complete absence of cars creates a cycling paradise that's safe even for wobbly beginners and wee ones still getting to grips with their training wheels.

You can bring your own bikes on the ferry (for a small additional fee) or rent them near the Centre Island dock. A family of four can expect to pay about $40-60 for a two-hour rental—not dirt cheap, but reasonable for the experience. The quadricycles that seat 4-6 people are a laugh and perfect for families, though they require the coordination of a synchronized swimming team to operate efficiently.

The full circuit of the islands covers about 5 kilometers of mostly flat terrain, with stunning views at every turn. My favorite spot is the eastern edge of Ward's Island, where you can see across to the Scarborough Bluffs on a clear day. It's reminiscent of certain coastal views in the Scottish Highlands, though I'd never admit that to my Edinburgh mates.

For those planning to cycle, a collapsible water bottle is essential kit—the islands have water fountains for refilling, and you'll want to stay hydrated, especially during the summer heat that would melt a Scottish person faster than butter on hot toast.

Ward's Island offers a fascinating glimpse into a truly unique Toronto community. Unlike the rest of the city, no cars are allowed here—not just discouraged, mind you, but properly banned. Supplies arrive by small service vehicles that putter along at walking pace.

The island homes are a mishmash of charming cottages that wouldn't look out of place in a fairy tale, each one different from the next and many adorned with gardens that would make my Scottish mother weep with joy. The waiting list for these properties is measured in decades, not years, and I can certainly see why.

The Ward's Island Beach is generally less crowded than Centre Island's and offers a more laid-back vibe. The Ward's Island Café makes a decent cuppa and serves light meals that won't break the bank. It's a proper spot to rest your legs after exploring.

For photography enthusiasts, I recommend bringing a camera clip for easy access to your camera while cycling. The light on the islands, especially in the golden hour before sunset, creates magical conditions for photography—the Toronto skyline across the water takes on an almost ethereal quality that even my amateur photography skills couldn't ruin completely.

Hanlan's Point occupies the western edge of the islands and offers a different experience altogether. History buffs might appreciate that Babe Ruth hit his first professional home run at the baseball stadium that once stood here—though you'll find no trace of it now beyond a commemorative plaque.

The main draw for many is Hanlan's Point Beach, which includes Toronto's only official clothing-optional section. I'll admit I was a bit taken aback when I accidentally wandered into this area during my first visit—not that us Scots are particularly prudish, but encountering unexpected nudity while looking for a spot to unwrap your sandwich can be startling.

For families, there's plenty of 'textile beach' (as the locals call the non-nude sections) with soft sand and gradually sloping shores. The Gibraltar Point Lighthouse, one of Toronto's oldest structures, stands nearby and comes with appropriately spooky ghost stories that the kids will love.

This area of the island feels wilder and less manicured than Centre Island, with nature trails winding through surprising biodiversity. Bird watchers should pack compact binoculars as the western tip serves as a migratory bird stopover point. I'm no twitcher myself, but even I was impressed by the variety of feathered visitors.