10 Epic Wellington Coastal Walks: Where to Hike the Dramatic Wellington Headland Trails

The Makara Beach Walkway remains my absolute favorite Wellington coastal experience – a 6km loop that feels worlds away from the city despite being just a 30-minute drive from the CBD. This track delivers everything: World War II gun emplacements, rugged clifftops, and views that stretch clear to the South Island on good days.

The walk begins innocently enough at Makara Beach, a moody stretch of dark sand where local fishermen cast lines into the churning surf. But don't be fooled – you'll soon be climbing steadily up farm tracks to reach the ridgeline. Last month, my mate Tane and I tackled this in classic Wellington sideways rain, and I've never been more grateful for my waterproof hiking pants which kept me dry despite the elements' best efforts.

The real magic happens at the top when you reach the wind turbines of Project West Wind. These giants create an otherworldly atmosphere, their massive blades cutting through fog with hypnotic rhythm. Take your time here – the benches facing west make perfect spots for sharing a thermos of tea while watching seabirds ride the updrafts.

If you're after a gentler coastal experience with a hefty dose of wildlife and cultural significance, the Red Rocks Reserve track is your perfect match. This 8km return walk hugs the rugged south coast from Owhiro Bay to Sinclair Head, where a fur seal colony makes its seasonal home.

The track takes its name from the distinctive red rocks (para karaka) formed over 200 million years ago. According to Māori legend, these rocks got their color from the blood of Kupe's daughters, who cut themselves in grief when they thought their father had been lost at sea. As someone with Māori heritage, walking this path always feels like reading pages from an ancient story written in stone and sea.

The mostly flat gravel road makes this an accessible adventure, though the exposed nature means weather can change in an instant. Last summer, I brought my trekking poles which proved invaluable when scrambling over the occasional boulder field. Between May and October, you'll likely spot dozens of fur seals lounging on the rocks – keep a respectful distance of at least 20 meters and never position yourself between seals and the water.

While technically part of the Te Araroa Trail, the Escarpment Track between Pukerua Bay and Paekakariki deserves special mention for couples seeking a more challenging coastal adventure. This 10km one-way track is not for the faint-hearted – featuring over 1,200 steps and narrow paths with steep drop-offs – but rewards brave souls with arguably the most spectacular coastal views in the region.

I tackled this track last autumn with my old gaming buddy Dave who was visiting from South Korea. We'd spent the previous evening sampling Wellington craft brews, so I was grateful for my hydration backpack which ensured we stayed properly hydrated throughout the journey. The track climbs to 220 meters above sea level, offering panoramic views of Kapiti Island and the Tasman Sea that literally stopped us in our tracks.

The two swing bridges are particular highlights, suspending you above native kohekohe forest with the rhythmic sound of the waves providing a soundtrack to your crossing. We timed our walk to catch the late afternoon train back to Wellington from Paekakariki, stopping at the village's iconic Beach Road Deli for well-earned ice cream cones before heading home.

For history buffs and bird lovers, the Pencarrow Coast Road offers a gentler but no less rewarding coastal experience. This 8km trail from Eastbourne to the historic Pencarrow Lighthouse is mostly flat, following a gravel service road that hugs the rugged eastern harbor entrance.

What makes this walk special is its dual historical significance – at the top stands New Zealand's first permanent lighthouse, while below sits the country's first lighthouse to be operated by a woman, Mary Jane Bennett, who took over after her husband drowned. As someone who appreciates both well-crafted stories and well-crafted spirits, I find this walk pairs perfectly with a visit to Eastbourne's local cafes afterward.

The track skirts several fascinating freshwater lakes, including Lake Kohangapiripiri and Lake Kohangatera, which are home to rare waterfowl. On my last visit, I was grateful for my compact monocular which allowed me to spot a shy matuku (Australasian bittern) without disturbing its lakeside hunting.

The exposed nature of this coastline means the weather can turn quickly. I've learned the hard way that a packable rain jacket is essential even on seemingly perfect days – Wellington's 'four seasons in one day' reputation exists for good reason.

For couples seeking a full day's adventure with a perfect blend of challenge and reward, I've crafted what I call the 'Lovers' Loop' – a combination of the Escarpment Track with a return journey along Pukerua Bay's beach.

Start early from Paekakariki train station, tackling the Escarpment Track's infamous stairs in the morning when your legs are fresh. Upon reaching Pukerua Bay, descend to the secluded beach where you'll likely have the shore entirely to yourselves. This is where the magic happens – the beach walking portion offers a completely different perspective of the same coastline you've just traversed high above.

My partner and I discovered this loop last Valentine's Day, packing a special picnic to enjoy at a hidden cove we found. Our insulated food container kept our antipasto spread perfectly chilled despite the summer heat. We spent hours beachcombing, discovering pāua shells (abalone) in colors that seemed almost artificially vibrant and watching oystercatchers dart along the tideline.

The return journey along the beach requires careful tide planning – check the timetables and aim to walk this section within two hours either side of low tide. There's something deeply romantic about walking hand-in-hand along this wild shore, with the massive escarpment looming above as evidence of your earlier accomplishment.