Solo in Cuba: A Woman's Guide to Safely Exploring Holguín's Hidden Treasures

Before diving into Holguín's treasures, understand that Cuba demands a different kind of preparation than most destinations. The dual-currency system has officially ended, but the economic reality remains complex. I exchanged dollars for euros before arrival (avoiding the 10% penalty on USD exchanges) and brought more cash than I typically would since American cards don't work here.

The internet situation requires advance planning too. While Wi-Fi has improved dramatically since my first visit years ago, connectivity remains spotty and primarily available in designated hotspots. I purchased a portable Wi-Fi device before my trip, which proved invaluable for occasional navigation and emergency contact with family.

Packing light but strategic is essential. Beyond the usual suspects (sunscreen, insect repellent), I brought a water purifier bottle which saved me from buying countless plastic bottles while ensuring safe drinking water. Cuba's infrastructure can be unpredictable, and having clean water on demand provided peace of mind during long day trips to remote beaches and mountain villages.

Forget impersonal hotel chains – in Holguín, casas particulares (private homestays) offer the sweet spot between comfort, affordability, and cultural immersion. These government-licensed accommodations in family homes provided my safest and most memorable experiences.

In Holguín city, I stayed with Marta, whose colonial casa near Parque Calixto García featured high ceilings, vintage furniture, and breakfasts that became morning masterclasses in Cuban cuisine and history. For around $25-35 per night, you get a private room, bathroom, and often the most valuable travel resource: a local host invested in your safety and experience.

For beach time, I split my stay between Guardalavaca and the less-developed Playa Esmeralda. While resorts dominate these areas, I discovered several casas in nearby villages that offered transportation to beaches. My favorite find was Villa El Bosque in Guardalavaca, where my room opened to a garden bursting with orchids and hummingbirds.

Pro tip: While many casas now appear on booking sites, the best ones often rely on word-of-mouth. I found my favorite stays through recommendations from previous hosts. Bring a portable door lock for added security and peace of mind, though I rarely felt it necessary.

While Holguín's beaches rightfully earn their reputation, it was the province's mountainous interior that captured my soul. The Sierra del Cristal and Pinares de Mayarí regions offer a completely different Cuba – one of cloud forests, hidden waterfalls, and coffee plantations where time seems suspended.

Arranging transportation requires patience but delivers rewards beyond measure. I hired a local guide through my casa host in Holguín city for a day trip to Pinares de Mayarí, about two hours from the city. The pine-scented air at 2,000 feet elevation provided welcome relief from coastal heat, while trails led to viewpoints where the Caribbean stretched endlessly blue below.

Bring sturdy hiking shoes as paths can be muddy and uneven. My pair proved essential when an afternoon thunderstorm transformed dirt trails into slick challenges. For these excursions, I also relied heavily on my quick-dry hiking pants which performed beautifully through sweat, rain, and river crossings.

The true highlight came in Cayo Saetía, a former hunting reserve turned nature park. This semi-wild island accessible by causeway hosts zebras, antelope, and other non-native species in a surreal Caribbean setting. Arrange a jeep tour through local operators in Holguín city rather than through resorts – you'll pay half the price for the same experience.

As a solo female traveler, I found Holguín to be remarkably welcoming, though not without its challenges. The infamous jineteros (hustlers) are less prevalent here than in Havana, but remain part of the landscape. A firm but friendly 'no, gracias' usually suffices, though I occasionally deployed my well-practiced 'already have a guide' white lie when persistence became an issue.

The key to meaningful connection is approaching conversations with genuine curiosity rather than assumptions. Cubans are proud, educated people navigating complex realities, and appreciate visitors who recognize this nuance. My background in journalism taught me to ask open questions and listen more than speak – an approach that opened doors to authentic experiences no guidebook could reveal.

Music provides the easiest entry point to Cuban culture. In Holguín city, I discovered Casa de la Trova, where local musicians perform traditional son and trova music nightly. For around $5 entrance fee (including one drink), you'll experience multi-generational Cubans dancing, singing, and celebrating their cultural heritage. I brought a compact travel speaker which facilitated impromptu dance parties with new friends on beaches and rooftops.

Religious syncretism fascinates me, and Holguín offers rich opportunities to explore Santería traditions. The annual pilgrimage to the Hill of the Cross (Loma de la Cruz) demonstrates how Catholic and African spiritual practices have blended into something uniquely Cuban. Approach these sites with respect – ask permission before photographing religious ceremonies or altars.

Let's address the elephant in the room: safety concerns often top the list for women considering solo travel in Cuba. My experience in Holguín was overwhelmingly positive, though not without moments requiring street smarts and boundary-setting.

Catcalling (piropos) remains common, though it typically manifests as exaggerated compliments rather than threatening behavior. I found the most effective response was brief acknowledgment without engagement – a quick nod while continuing to walk purposefully. In two weeks, I never encountered anything beyond verbal attention.

Night safety surprised me positively. Holguín's streets remain active with families and neighbors chatting until late hours, creating natural community surveillance. Still, I avoided isolated areas after dark and carried a compact flashlight for power outages and poorly lit streets.

Transportation deserves careful consideration. For intercity travel, Viazul buses offer reliable, air-conditioned service, though schedules can be limited. Within cities, official taxis (with yellow license plates) provide safe, metered transportation. For day trips, I occasionally shared costs with other travelers from my casa, combining safety with savings.

My most valuable safety tool was situational awareness, honed through years of solo travel. I carried a anti-theft crossbody bag with RFID protection and slash-resistant straps – perhaps overkill for Holguín, but the peace of mind allowed me to focus on experiences rather than worrying about belongings.