Island Hopping in Bay of Islands: Ferries, Yachts, and Water Taxis Guide

The passenger ferries connecting the Bay's main hubs form the essential framework for any family exploration here. The primary route runs between Paihia on the mainland and Russell, the charming historic town across the bay. This 15-minute crossing costs around NZ$13 for adults and NZ$7 for children, running every 30 minutes during summer months. What makes this service particularly valuable for families is its reliability and the way it connects two distinctly different experiences—Paihia's bustling tourism infrastructure and Russell's more laid-back historical atmosphere.

The Fullers GreatSights passenger ferry service deserves special mention. Their vessels are well-maintained, wheelchair accessible, and accommodate bicycles—perfect if you're planning to cycle around Russell's gentle slopes. During my recent visit, I watched a family with three young children seamlessly board with a collapsible stroller and picnic gear. The crew's friendly efficiency in helping families board speaks to the Kiwi hospitality I've missed during my years overseas.

For longer journeys to outer islands like Urupukapuka, the passenger ferry from Paihia operates daily during summer months. This 40-minute journey costs NZ$50 return for adults and offers stunning views of the bay's geography that reveal how volcanic activity shaped these waters millions of years ago—a perspective that always reminds me how brief our human presence is against geological timescales.

I recommend purchasing a multi-day ferry pass if you're planning to make multiple crossings during your stay. This saves both money and the hassle of queuing for tickets each time.

Water taxis are the unsung heroes of Bay of Islands exploration, offering customized journeys that regular ferry services can't match. For families, this flexibility is invaluable—especially when traveling with children whose energy levels and interests can change by the hour.

During my week in the Bay, I used water taxis three times to access remote beaches and hiking trails that would have been inaccessible otherwise. Operators like Explore Group and Bay of Islands Water Taxi provide on-demand services from main wharves at Paihia and Russell. Prices typically start around NZ$25 per person for short hops, with custom trips costing NZ$80-150 depending on distance and waiting time.

What surprised me most was how accommodating these services are for families with specific needs. When I joined a family heading to Roberton Island (Motuarohia) for a day of snorkeling, the captain made a special detour to point out a pod of dolphins to the wide-eyed children. He then adjusted our landing spot to access the gentlest beach entry point when he noticed one child was hesitant about swimming.

Water taxis also offer practical advantages: they can drop you directly on beaches where regular ferries don't stop, wait while you explore (if arranged), and pick you up from different locations than where they dropped you off—perfect for one-way hiking adventures across islands like Urupukapuka.

For safety and comfort, I recommend packing a dry bag for electronics and valuables. The smaller vessels used as water taxis can occasionally encounter spray during windier conditions, and having peace of mind about your camera gear or phones makes the journey more enjoyable.

Chartering a yacht in the Bay of Islands transforms a simple vacation into an immersive journey through both maritime and celestial realms. As an astronomer, I've found few experiences that compare to anchoring in a sheltered cove, away from light pollution, where the Milky Way stretches across the sky with a clarity that makes you feel you could reach up and touch the stars.

For families, a skippered yacht charter offers the perfect balance between adventure and comfort. Companies like Great Escape and Sailing NZ provide vessels ranging from 36 to 45 feet, accommodating 4-8 passengers comfortably. A full-day charter starts around NZ$600-800, while multi-day experiences range from NZ$1,500-3,000 depending on the vessel size and level of service.

During my recent visit, I splurged on a two-day charter aboard a 42-foot catamaran with a local skipper named Hemi who shared both sailing expertise and Māori celestial navigation knowledge. We anchored in a secluded bay off Waewaetorea Island where I set up my portable telescope on the forward deck. The children aboard were mesmerized as we identified the Southern Cross and shared stories about how Polynesian voyagers used these same stars to find their way to Aotearoa (New Zealand) centuries ago.

The practical advantages of yacht charters for families are numerous: flexible itineraries that can change based on weather or interests, the ability to carry all your gear without repacking daily, and access to snorkeling spots and beaches that larger vessels can't reach. Most importantly, children experience the islands at a pace that allows genuine connection with nature—watching dolphins ride the bow wave, helping to raise sails, or learning to identify native birds along the shoreline.

Even if you have no sailing experience, skippered charters provide all the magic without the responsibility. The skippers know the best anchorages for swimming, fishing, and protection from prevailing winds—knowledge that proves invaluable for a stress-free family experience.

Planning efficient island transportation with children requires strategic thinking that balances adventure with practical considerations. After multiple visits to the Bay, I've developed a system that maximizes exploration while minimizing the logistical challenges that can overwhelm families.

First, establish a base in either Paihia or Russell. Paihia offers more accommodation options and services, while Russell provides a quieter, more historic atmosphere. From either location, plan your island exploration in a logical sequence rather than zigzagging across the bay.

A sample 5-day itinerary might look like this:

Day 1: Take the regular ferry between Paihia and Russell to get oriented to the bay's geography and visit the historic sites in Russell.

Day 2: Book a water taxi to Urupukapuka Island for hiking and beach time, with pre-arranged pickup from a different beach than your drop-off point.

Day 3: Join a scheduled ferry to Roberton Island (Motuarohia) in the morning, with return options throughout the afternoon.

Day 4: Charter a yacht for the day to explore multiple remote islands and coves at your own pace.

Day 5: Take the passenger ferry to Waitangi Treaty Grounds (if staying in Russell) or explore mainland attractions.

For families with younger children, I recommend carrying a lightweight beach shelter that provides shade and wind protection during island stops. The New Zealand sun is notoriously intense, and having a portable shelter extends the time you can comfortably spend on remote beaches.

Packing food and water for island excursions is essential as many islands have no services. The Department of Conservation maintains composting toilets on larger islands like Urupukapuka, but facilities are limited elsewhere.

Perhaps most importantly, build flexibility into your schedule. Some of our most magical moments in the Bay happened when we abandoned plans to catch the scheduled ferry back and instead called a water taxi to stay longer at a perfect swimming spot where phosphorescence appeared as darkness fell.

As someone of Māori descent, I find that traveling the Bay of Islands by water offers more than scenic beauty—it provides profound connections to the cultural heritage that shaped these islands. For families visiting the Bay, incorporating cultural understanding into your water journeys adds layers of meaning to the experience.

Many boat operators in the region offer more than just transportation; they share stories that bring the landscape to life. During my recent visit, I joined a guided tour aboard the R. Tucker Thompson, a traditional sailing ship that combines transportation between islands with cultural education. The crew explained how Māori voyagers used celestial navigation to find these islands, pointing out the same star patterns still visible in our night skies.

The waters between islands hold stories of first encounters between Māori and European settlers, the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, and the complex history that followed. When crossing from Paihia to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds, our captain pointed out significant landmarks visible only from the water perspective—places where waka (canoes) landed centuries ago and natural features that served as navigation markers.

For families wanting deeper cultural immersion, I recommend booking with operators like Taiamai Tours, which offers traditional waka experiences guided by Māori knowledge keepers. Children are particularly engaged by these hands-on experiences, learning to paddle in unison while hearing stories about the spiritual significance of water to Māori culture.

The connection between astronomy and navigation is particularly strong in Māori tradition. During summer evenings, some charter operators offer special stargazing cruises where traditional navigation techniques are demonstrated alongside modern astronomical observations. I brought my night vision binoculars to enhance these experiences, allowing us to see details of star clusters that played crucial roles in traditional navigation.

By choosing water transportation options that incorporate cultural narratives, families gain a deeper appreciation of the bay's significance beyond its postcard beauty. Children especially benefit from understanding that these waters have been highways for human movement and cultural exchange for centuries—a living connection to history rather than just a scenic backdrop.