Navigating Gonaïves: Transportation Guide to Haiti's City of Independence

Gonaïves sits about 150km north of Port-au-Prince, and while it's Haiti's fourth-largest city, the transportation infrastructure here would make a Dublin city planner have a nervous breakdown. There are no official bus schedules, no neat little transit maps, and definitely no Uber. The city operates on what I'd call 'organized chaos' – a system that somehow works despite looking completely mental to outsiders.

The roads themselves deserve a mention. After the devastating floods in 2004 and 2008, many streets remain in bits. During my winter visit, the dry season meant less mud but more dust. The main thoroughfares are grand enough, but venture into the neighborhoods where actual business happens, and you're navigating streets that would rattle your fillings loose.

What struck me most was how the electrical grid interacts with transportation here. As an electrician, I couldn't help but notice the creative wiring solutions above the busy streets – tangles that would give any European inspector heart palpitations. These makeshift power lines sometimes hang perilously low, something to be mindful of if you're on top of a tap-tap or riding a tall vehicle.

The city layout is fairly straightforward once you grasp it – radiating outward from the central Place d'Independence. This square is your North Star when getting your bearings. Most business activities happen within a 2km radius of this center, with the port area to the northwest being another hub of commercial activity.

If there's one mode of transport that captures Haiti's spirit, it's the tap-tap. These repurposed pickup trucks and minibuses aren't just vehicles – they're moving art installations, each one painted in vibrant colors with religious slogans, portraits of saints, or philosophical musings that would make my old man's opera programs look understated.

During my week in Gonaïves, tap-taps became my go-to for longer journeys across town. The system works like this: each tap-tap follows a loosely defined route, with passengers hopping on and off as needed. You signal your stop by literally tapping on the roof or side (hence the name) – a system that's brilliantly simple once you get the hang of it.

The fare typically ranges from 10-25 gourdes (about 10-25 cents USD) depending on distance. Always carry small bills and coins – no one appreciates breaking large notes for a tap-tap ride. I learned this the hard way and got some fierce looks from a driver when I tried to pay with a 500 gourde note my second day.

For business travelers, tap-taps offer an economical option for daily commutes, though be prepared for a few challenges. They don't run on schedules, so timing can be unpredictable. During peak hours (7-9am and 4-6pm), they're packed tighter than a Dublin pub on match day. If you're carrying valuable equipment, like I was with my tool backpack, you'll want to keep it on your lap or between your feet.

The true advantage of tap-taps isn't just the cost – it's the cultural immersion. Some of my best conversations happened while squeezed between locals on these colorful chariots, learning about everything from Haitian politics to recommendations for the best street food near my worksite.

When you're racing between meetings or need to reach places where tap-taps don't venture, moto-taxis (motorcycle taxis) are your saving grace in Gonaïves. These nimble two-wheelers zip through traffic like Dublin cyclists after a close call, getting you to your destination in half the time of other options.

During my stint rewiring that new business complex on Rue Louverture, I relied heavily on moto-taxis for my morning commute. The going rate was about 50-100 gourdes (0.50-1 USD) for short trips within the city center, though prices climb for longer journeys or after dark. Unlike tap-taps, everything here is negotiable, and having the chat with drivers before mounting up saved me from tourist pricing.

Safety-wise, it's a bit of a gamble. Helmets aren't common, and if offered one, it might be more decorative than protective. After seeing the state of some electrical installations around town, I wasn't about to trust my skull to unknown safety standards. I brought my own foldable helmet which packs down small enough to fit in my day bag – earned me some strange looks but kept my mother from worrying herself sick when I sent photos home.

For business travelers, moto-taxis offer unmatched flexibility. Need to visit three suppliers across town in one afternoon? No bother. Want to check out a potential business location in a hurry? A moto-taxi will get you there while your competitors are still figuring out the tap-tap routes.

A word of caution though – the driving style here would make a Cork taxi driver look cautious. Drivers weave through traffic with millimeters to spare, and the concept of lanes is more suggestion than rule. If you're not comfortable with this level of excitement, you might want to consider alternatives. That said, I never once felt my driver wasn't in complete control, even when my knuckles were white from gripping the seat.

There are times when the business hat needs to go on proper, and you can't be showing up to meetings with dust-covered trousers or sweat-soaked shirts. For these occasions, private transportation in Gonaïves becomes essential, though it operates differently than what you might expect.

Traditional car rental agencies like you'd find at Shannon Airport don't exist here. Instead, arranging a private car means either hiring a local driver with their vehicle (typically 40-60 USD per day) or making arrangements through your accommodation. During my stay at a modest guesthouse near the city center, the owner's cousin became my occasional chauffeur when I needed to transport sensitive electrical equipment or meet with government officials.

The advantages are obvious – comfort, privacy for business calls, and the ability to store equipment safely. I used this option when transporting my electrical testing kit which I wasn't keen on bouncing around on the back of a moto-taxi.

The cost is the main drawback, being significantly higher than public options. However, when you factor in the reliability and time saved, it often makes business sense. My strategy was to cluster important meetings on the same day to maximize the value from a private driver.

One unexpected benefit was the local knowledge these drivers provide. My regular driver, Jean, knew exactly which roads to avoid after heavy rain (a crucial bit of intel during winter season, despite it being the dry period) and had connections everywhere. When I needed to source some specialized circuit breakers not available at the main supply store, Jean knew exactly which warehouse on the outskirts had them in stock.

For traveling between cities, such as from Port-au-Prince to Gonaïves, private transportation offers significant advantages in terms of safety and comfort. The journey takes about 2.5-3 hours depending on road conditions, and having a reliable driver who knows the security situation along the route is invaluable.

Let's have a straight talk about safety in Gonaïves, without the sugar-coating or fear-mongering. Haiti faces significant challenges, and understanding the security landscape is crucial, especially when you're there for business rather than just passing through.

First off, the political situation can change rapidly. During my week there, tensions were relatively calm, but protests can flare up with little warning. This directly impacts transportation – roadblocks can appear overnight, and certain areas may suddenly become inaccessible. I made it a habit to check in with local staff each morning about the day's situation before planning my routes.

After dark, the transportation equation changes dramatically. Tap-taps become scarce, and even moto-taxis may be reluctant to travel to certain neighborhoods. As a visible foreigner with an accent that screams 'not from around here,' I avoided night travel except when absolutely necessary. When I did need to travel after sunset, I used drivers recommended by my guesthouse or business contacts rather than flagging down unknown vehicles.

Carrying valuables requires strategy. I invested in a hidden money belt that tucked under my shirt for cash and important documents, while keeping a small 'decoy' wallet with just enough money for the day's transportation. My phone stayed in a front pocket, never flashed around unnecessarily.

The most valuable safety tool, though, was building relationships. After using the same tap-tap route for a few days, drivers recognized me and would sometimes warn me about areas to avoid. The owner of a small café near my worksite kept an eye on my tools when I stepped away. These connections provided a safety net that no guidebook could offer.

For women business travelers, the considerations multiply. My female colleague who joined for the second half of the project faced additional challenges, including unwanted attention. She found having a local contact accompany her when using public transportation made a significant difference in her experience.

The port area of Gonaïves presents unique transportation challenges for business travelers, especially those involved in import/export or manufacturing sectors. Located about 3km northwest of the city center, the industrial zone operates by its own rhythms, distinct from the rest of town.

During my time rewiring a warehouse near the port, I quickly learned that timing is everything. The roads connecting the city center to the port become congested with trucks and cargo vehicles between 10am-2pm. If you're heading there for business meetings, either go early (before 9am) or later in the afternoon to avoid the worst of it.

Tap-taps do service the port area, but they run less frequently than city center routes. Look for vehicles with 'PÒ' or 'PORT' painted on their sides. The fare runs slightly higher than in-town routes, typically 25-30 gourdes. For regular commuting to the port, I found it worthwhile to scout the tap-tap stops near my guesthouse and learn their rough schedule patterns.

Moto-taxis remain the most flexible option, though the longer distance means higher fares (expect 100-150 gourdes from city center). The advantage is they can navigate around traffic jams that regularly form at the port entrance.

What surprised me most about the industrial area was the informal transportation networks that exist specifically for workers. Larger businesses sometimes operate their own shuttle services for employees, and if you're contracting with these companies, you might be able to arrange access to these services – a much more comfortable option than public transportation.

As an electrician, I was constantly carrying tools and testing equipment. For these port runs, I relied heavily on my waterproof tool bag which kept everything organized and protected from the dust and occasional rain. The waterproof bottom proved essential one morning when a sudden shower flooded the back of the tap-tap I was riding in.

One final note about port area transportation – security checks are common. Have your identification and business documentation easily accessible, as vehicles are frequently stopped at checkpoints, especially those entering or leaving the port zone. These checks intensified in the afternoons, adding another reason to plan port visits for morning hours when possible.