Navigating Car-Free Paradise: Complete Transportation Guide to La Digue

La Digue doesn't have an airport, which is precisely what preserves its car-free charm. Your journey to this island paradise will always involve a ferry ride, creating a perfect transition from the modern world to island time.

From the main island of Mahé, you have two options: take a direct Cat Cocos ferry (about 90 minutes) or fly to Praslin first and then catch a shorter 15-minute ferry. With Zoe in tow, I opted for the direct route to minimize transitions, though the views from either journey are spectacular.

The Cat Cocos ferries run several times daily between Mahé and La Digue, with tickets costing around €60 for adults and €30 for children one-way. I highly recommend booking these in advance, especially during high season (June-September and December-January). The waterproof dry bag I brought proved invaluable during the occasionally splashy ride—keeping our passports, electronics, and travel documents bone dry.

As you approach La Digue, grab a seat on the port side of the ferry for your first glimpse of the island's famous granite formations and pristine beaches. The excitement of arriving somewhere that feels genuinely different from anywhere else is worth every minute of travel time.

If La Digue has a cultural emblem beyond its stunning beaches, it's the humble bicycle. Within minutes of stepping off the ferry, you'll notice locals and tourists alike pedaling everywhere. After five days of cycling the island with Zoe, I'm convinced it's not just transportation—it's transformation.

Bicycle rental shops cluster near the jetty, offering daily rates between 100-150 Seychellois Rupees (roughly $7-10 USD). While tempting to grab the first bikes you see, I recommend walking about 100 meters inland where prices drop and quality often improves. We rented from George's Bicycle Hire, where the owner personally adjusted seat heights and provided a child carrier for families with toddlers.

For families, bicycle options include:

• Standard adult bikes (most common)
• Children's bikes (limited availability, reserve ahead)
• Adult bikes with child seats (for kids under 5)
• Tandems (rare but available at select shops)

The island is relatively flat along the coastal road, but paths to interior attractions like Belle Vue can challenge younger riders. My collapsible water bottle proved essential during our rides—it saved space when empty and kept us hydrated in the tropical heat.

Most rentals include a basket and lock—use the latter religiously, even for quick stops. While crime is rare on La Digue, bicycles are valuable commodities here. Also, bring your own bike lights if planning evening rides, as most rental bikes don't include them.

When I first saw the ox-carts of La Digue, I admittedly dismissed them as tourist gimmicks. By day three, when an afternoon downpour caught us halfway between L'Union Estate and our guesthouse, I quickly changed my mind. These traditional vehicles—essentially wooden platforms pulled by massive oxen—have transported people and goods around La Digue for generations.

Today, they serve two primary purposes: transporting visitors' luggage from the jetty to accommodations (particularly useful for families with multiple bags) and offering tours of the island. A standard luggage transport costs about 100-150 SCR ($7-10 USD), while tours range from 500-1000 SCR ($35-70 USD) depending on duration and route.

The ox-cart drivers double as informal guides, sharing island history and pointing out easily missed sights. Our driver, Marcel, showed Zoe how to identify breadfruit trees and explained how the island's granite formations were once believed to have healing properties.

While ox-carts move at a deliberate pace—about 3-4 mph—this slowness becomes a feature, not a bug. It forces you to notice details: the changing patterns of light through palm fronds, the symphony of birdsong, the scent of frangipani blossoms after rain.

For families, an ox-cart ride offers a welcome break from cycling, particularly during midday heat or sudden tropical showers. Just be aware that schedules are flexible at best—this is island time at its purest.

While bicycles efficiently cover La Digue's 10 square kilometers, the island's soul reveals itself most fully on foot. Some of our most magical moments came during walks along trails too narrow or rugged for wheels.

The coastal path connecting the beaches of Grand Anse, Petit Anse, and Anse Cocos ranks among the most spectacular walks I've ever taken. The 30-minute trail winds through boulder fields and jungle patches, opening suddenly to reveal pristine beaches that feel worlds away from even the modest development elsewhere on the island. We encountered only three other hikers during our Tuesday morning journey.

For families with older children, the climb to Belle Vue (Eagle's Nest Mountain) rewards with panoramic views of the entire island and neighboring Praslin. The trail begins near the vanilla plantation and takes about 45-60 minutes each way. Bring plenty of water and start early to avoid midday heat.

During our hikes, my hiking sandals proved their worth repeatedly—providing grip on slippery granite while draining quickly after stream crossings. Zoe still talks about the moment we rounded a bend on the Anse Cocos trail to find ourselves face-to-face with a giant Aldabra tortoise ambling along the path.

For shorter walks, the trail through L'Union Estate offers glimpses into the island's plantation history, complete with a traditional copra mill (for processing coconuts) and a colonial-era plantation house. The entrance fee (100 SCR for adults, 50 SCR for children) also grants access to Anse Source d'Argent, possibly the most photographed beach in the world.

Despite La Digue's car-free reputation, a handful of motorized vehicles do exist—primarily for goods transport and special circumstances. Understanding these options saved us during an unexpected thunderstorm that coincided with our departure day.

Pickup truck taxis operate with special permits, primarily serving as transfers between the jetty and accommodations for guests with luggage or mobility issues. These can be arranged through your accommodation (typically 150-200 SCR depending on distance) or found near the jetty upon arrival.

For our departure, our guesthouse arranged a pickup truck taxi when heavy rain made cycling with luggage impractical. The driver arrived precisely on time—a pleasant surprise given the generally relaxed island approach to schedules—and safely delivered us and our rain-soaked belongings to the ferry terminal.

A small fleet of electric golf carts also serves the island's few larger hotels and resorts. These aren't available for public hire but occasionally offer rides to stranded travelers during inclement weather—island hospitality at its finest.

Finally, emergency services maintain several vehicles, including an ambulance and police truck. In eight years of visits to La Digue, I've only seen these in motion twice—a testament to both the island's safety and the effectiveness of its largely car-free system.

If you have mobility concerns, contact your accommodation in advance to arrange appropriate transfers. Most are well-versed in assisting guests with special requirements despite the island's transportation limitations.

Navigating La Digue with kids requires a slightly different approach than adult-only travel, but the rewards are immeasurable. Watching Zoe adapt to car-free living—initially frustrated by the slower pace but eventually embracing the freedom of safe, independent cycling—was worth every extra planning minute.

For families with young children (under 5), I recommend staying within walking distance of the main village area. Properties near La Passe or La Reunion offer the convenience of proximity to restaurants and services without sacrificing the island experience. We stayed at Villa Veuve, a 7-minute walk from the jetty, which proved ideal for quick access to everything while still feeling secluded.

Children aged 5-8 might struggle with full-sized bicycles on longer rides. Consider these alternatives:

• Bicycles with attached child seats (best for ages 2-5)
• Tag-along attachments that convert adult bikes into tandems (best for ages 4-7)
• Scheduling strategic ox-cart rides for longer journeys

For older kids and teens, having their own bicycles provides independence that they'll cherish. Just establish clear boundaries about where they can cycle alone.

Regardless of age, sun protection is non-negotiable when most transport happens outdoors. Our reef-safe sunscreen held up remarkably well through sweaty bike rides and ocean dips alike.

Finally, embrace the slower pace. What initially feels like an inconvenience—taking 20 minutes to cycle somewhere that would be a 3-minute drive elsewhere—becomes La Digue's greatest gift. Those 20 minutes contain countless butterfly sightings, impromptu conversations with locals, and the kind of unscheduled moments that become favorite family memories.