Navigating Lisbon's Hills: Complete Guide to Trams, Funiculars & Secret Elevators

Before diving into the specifics, let's get our bearings. Lisbon's public transportation system feels like it was designed by someone who appreciates both efficiency and whimsy—a bit like crafting the perfect game level that balances challenge with delight.

The network consists of four main components:

1. Trams (Elétricos): The iconic yellow streetcars that navigate narrow streets and steep inclines
2. Funiculars (Ascensores): Short-distance, steep-grade trams that function like diagonal elevators
3. Elevators (Elevadores): Vertical lifts connecting different elevation points in the city
4. Metro and Buses: The conventional transit system that complements the hill-conquering options

What makes this system brilliant is how these pieces work together, creating a transportation web that can get you virtually anywhere while minimizing the quad-burning climbs. The best way to access all these options is with the Viva Viagem card—a reloadable transit card that works across the entire network.

Before my trip, I downloaded the Citymapper app to my phone, which proved invaluable for navigating the sometimes confusing connections between different transit types. Unlike Google Maps, it actually understands how the funiculars and elevators connect neighborhoods, saving me countless steps.

Let's talk about Tram 28—the most famous transit line in Lisbon and possibly all of Portugal. This vintage yellow streetcar winds through the most picturesque neighborhoods, from Graça to Estrela, passing by major attractions like the Sé Cathedral and the viewpoints of Portas do Sol. It's essentially a €3 sightseeing tour if you can actually get on it.

And therein lies the challenge. Tram 28 has become such a victim of its own Instagram fame that during peak hours, the queues at popular stops can stretch longer than a loading screen on dial-up internet. After two frustrating attempts to board at the Martim Moniz terminal (the starting point), I discovered a game-changing strategy.

Instead of joining the masses at the beginning or end of the line, I walked uphill (I know, I know—but bear with me) to the Campo Ourique neighborhood and caught the tram at the Prazeres stop. Not only did I board immediately, but I scored a window seat for the entire journey! The trick is to ride it backwards through the route when everyone else is going the opposite direction.

While the tram is charming, it can get uncomfortably crowded. I always keep my anti-theft crossbody bag close to my body, as pickpockets are known to target distracted tourists on the packed trams. The slash-proof straps and RFID-blocking pockets have given me peace of mind on public transportation throughout my travels.

Lisbon's three historic funiculars—Glória, Bica, and Lavra—are essentially diagonal elevators designed to tackle some of the city's steepest streets. Dating back to the late 19th century, these water counterweight-powered trams (now electrified) are both practical transportation and living museums.

The Ascensor da Glória connects downtown Restauradores Square with the Bairro Alto district and the spectacular São Pedro de Alcântara viewpoint. During my first visit, I made the rookie mistake of attempting to walk up this hill in midday heat. By the time I reached the top, my shirt was soaked through and I looked like I'd just completed an extreme gaming marathon. On my return trip, I wisely paid the €3.80 round-trip fare (or free with the 24-hour pass) and enjoyed the short but steep ride.

The Ascensor da Bica is arguably the most photogenic of the three, cutting through a narrow residential street with laundry often hanging from balconies above. It connects the riverfront area to the Bica neighborhood. This funicular appears on countless Lisbon postcards, but what they don't show is how practical it is for accessing some amazing hidden restaurants away from the tourist zones.

The Ascensor do Lavra is the oldest and least used by tourists, making it my personal favorite. Built in 1884, it connects Câmara Pestana street with São Sebastião da Pedreira. I discovered this gem by accident while exploring with my compact binoculars, which I'd brought for birdwatching along the Tagus River. These lightweight binoculars have become an unexpected urban exploration tool, perfect for spotting architectural details and street art from viewpoints throughout the city.

What makes these funiculars special isn't just their historical significance but how seamlessly they integrate into daily life. You'll ride alongside locals carrying groceries and children returning from school—a reminder that what feels novel to us is simply everyday transportation for Lisboetas.

While the trams and funiculars get all the attention, Lisbon's network of public elevators (elevadores) are the true hidden gems of the city's transportation system. These vertical lifts connect neighborhoods at different elevations, saving you hundreds of steps and offering some surprising architectural delights.

The Santa Justa Elevator is the most famous and, frankly, the least secret. This neo-Gothic iron structure designed by a student of Gustave Eiffel (yes, that Eiffel) connects downtown Baixa to Carmo Square in the Chiado district. While tourists queue for up to an hour to ride it and access the viewing platform, I discovered a local hack: you can access the top platform for free by entering through the back from Largo do Carmo. You'll still need to pay a small fee (around €1.50) to climb to the very top viewpoint, but you'll skip the main elevator queue entirely.

Far more interesting to me are the lesser-known municipal elevators hidden throughout the city. The Elevador Castelo connects Rua dos Fanqueiros with São Cristóvão, saving a punishing uphill climb toward the castle. When I stumbled upon it, it felt like discovering a secret warp zone in a video game—suddenly I was transported up several stories without breaking a sweat.

My absolute favorite is the Elevador da Bica (not to be confused with the funicular of the same name). This unassuming elevator is tucked inside what appears to be a regular building near the Time Out Market. It connects the riverfront area with the Bica neighborhood above, emerging near charming cafés where I spent hours working remotely on my travel laptop. The ability to set up my mobile office at these hidden hilltop cafés with spectacular views made my workdays feel like vacation.

The most recent addition to Lisbon's elevator network is the Elevador da Baixa, connecting Rua da Madalena to the Largo Chão do Loureiro. This modern glass elevator is built right into the city walls and provides a convenient connection to the atmospheric Mouraria neighborhood.

What makes these elevators special isn't just the convenience—it's the way they transform your understanding of the city's layout. Lisbon becomes a multi-level game world where these vertical portals create shortcuts between areas that seem disconnected on a traditional map.

After three visits to Lisbon, I've transformed my approach from seeing transit as merely functional to viewing it as an integral part of the experience. I now plan entire days around these unique transportation options, creating what I call "transit adventures" that are both budget-friendly and uniquely Lisboetan.

Here's my perfect day using Lisbon's transit network:

I start early, grabbing a pastéis de nata and coffee before catching Tram 28 from Campo Ourique around 8am when it's still relatively empty. I ride it all the way to Graça, enjoying the sunrise views over the city. From there, I walk downhill (always plan your walking segments downhill!) to Alfama, exploring the narrow streets until I reach the cathedral.

When my legs need a break, I catch a regular bus to Cais do Sodré, where I use the hidden Bica elevator to ascend to a small café for lunch. After refueling, I walk to the Bica funicular and ride it to the top, then stroll through Bairro Alto toward the Santa Justa Elevator, accessing it from the back entrance at Carmo Square.

In the afternoon, I take the metro to Parque station to visit the Gulbenkian Museum, then return downtown via the efficient subway system. As evening approaches, I ride the Glória funicular up to São Pedro de Alcântara for sunset views before dinner in Príncipe Real.

This entire day of exploration costs just €6.60 with a 24-hour transit pass, proving you don't need expensive tour buses to experience the best of Lisbon. I track all my transit adventures using my fitness tracker, which has become an essential travel companion. It helps me monitor my daily steps (still substantial despite the transit help!) and track my sleep patterns as I adjust to new time zones.

The beauty of this approach is that you're not just saving money and energy—you're experiencing the city as it was designed to be navigated. Each tram, funicular, and elevator offers a window into how Lisboetas have ingeniously adapted to their hilly terrain for generations.