Beyond the Mountains: Discovering Charming Towns Around Drakensberg

My Drakensberg journey began where most travelers start – in the twin towns of Himeville and Underberg, nestled at the foothills of the southern Berg. These settlements might initially seem like mere launching points for mountain adventures, but give them time and they reveal themselves as destinations worthy of exploration in their own right.

Underberg welcomed me with its frontier-town charm, main street lined with adventure outfitters, craft shops, and the kind of cafés where locals know each other by name. The Underberg Farmers Market (every Sunday morning) became my weekly ritual, where I'd stock up on artisanal cheeses, homemade preserves, and fresh produce while chatting with farmers whose families have worked this land for generations.

Just 5km away, Himeville offers a more historical perspective. The Himeville Museum, housed in a former fort built in 1896, provided fascinating insight into both colonial history and indigenous San culture. What struck me most was the museum's collection of rock art reproductions – tangible connections to the people who first called these mountains home thousands of years ago.

For families, these gateway towns offer the perfect balance of amenities and authenticity. My accommodation at the Himeville Arms provided that quintessential country hospitality – crackling fireplaces, hearty meals, and staff who treated my endless questions about local history with genuine enthusiasm rather than tourism fatigue.

A 45-minute drive north of Himeville brought me to Winterton, a town that wears its agricultural heritage proudly. Founded in the 1860s as a trading post, Winterton now serves as the commercial hub for the central Berg region while maintaining its small-town soul.

My first stop was the Winterton Museum, considerably smaller than its Himeville counterpart but equally fascinating with its focus on settler history and the Anglo-Boer War. The museum's curator, Anna, shared stories of her grandfather's experiences during the war that no guidebook could provide – the kind of personal connection that transforms historical facts into emotional understanding.

Winterton truly shines as a base for families exploring the central Drakensberg. The town's proximity to Champagne Valley means easy access to some of the Berg's most iconic peaks, including Cathkin Peak and Champagne Castle. After a day of hiking, we returned to town for what became a daily ritual: homemade ice cream at the Winterton Country Store, where the butterscotch flavor had my taste buds singing praises to the dairy cows grazing in nearby fields.

For families with young children, I highly recommend the Drakensberg Canopy Tour just outside of town. Gliding between platforms set in old-growth forest gave us a bird's-eye view of the landscape while our guides pointed out medicinal plants used by local healers – that perfect blend of adrenaline and education that makes for memorable family experiences.

Further north, Bergville serves as the gateway to the northern Drakensberg, including the magnificent Amphitheatre and Royal Natal National Park. At first glance, Bergville appears to be little more than a service town – a place to refuel vehicles and restock supplies. But spend time here, as I did for two nights, and you'll discover a community with deep connections to both the land and its complex history.

The town's central square hosts a modest monument commemorating the Anglo-Boer War, a reminder of the strategic importance this region once held. What fascinated me most, however, was learning about Bergville's role in the struggle against apartheid – stories shared by my host at a local B&B that rarely make it into tourist literature.

Bergville truly comes alive on market days when rural farmers bring their produce to town. The vibrant energy, colorful displays, and multilingual exchanges between Zulu, Afrikaans, and English speakers create a sensory tapestry that captures South Africa's cultural complexity in microcosm. I spent hours wandering between stalls, photographing the kaleidoscope of vegetables and crafts while attempting to learn basic Zulu greetings from patient vendors.

For families, Bergville offers excellent value accommodations and a less touristy atmosphere than the southern Berg towns. We stayed at a family-run guesthouse where the owners' children became impromptu tour guides for my friend's kids, showing them how to identify local bird calls and track small game in the garden – the kind of cultural exchange that enriches travel beyond measure.

From Bergville, we made daily excursions into the northern Berg, returning each evening with cameras full and legs tired. My hiking daypack proved invaluable for these adventures – its hydration system and multiple pockets perfectly organized for carrying water, snacks, field guides, and camera equipment through varied terrain.

While not technically a town, the Thendele community near Royal Natal National Park represents something I find infinitely more valuable than colonial architecture or tourist amenities – a living cultural landscape where Zulu traditions continue to evolve in dialogue with the natural environment.

My visit to Thendele was arranged through a community tourism initiative, where local guide Sipho led our small group through the village, explaining how traditional building techniques have adapted to modern materials while maintaining cultural significance. The circular layout of homesteads, he explained, reflects Zulu cosmology – a worldview where family connections and ancestral relationships remain central despite centuries of colonial pressure.

What made this experience particularly valuable for families was the opportunity for children to interact with their South African peers. At the local primary school, we watched a spontaneous cultural exchange unfold as kids taught each other games from their respective traditions. No museum or historical site could match the educational value of this authentic interaction.

The highlight of our Thendele visit was undoubtedly the evening of traditional dance and storytelling. As the setting sun painted the Amphitheatre in shades of gold and purple, young performers shared stories through movement and music that connected present-day village life to ancient traditions. I captured these moments with my travel camera, though no photograph could fully convey the emotional resonance of witnessing cultural heritage transmitted between generations.

For families concerned about cultural tourism becoming exploitative, I was impressed by the community-controlled nature of Thendele's program. Proceeds directly support local development initiatives, and visitors are briefed on respectful behavior before entering the community. This approach creates a model for tourism that benefits both visitors seeking authentic experiences and communities maintaining their cultural identity.

My Drakensberg exploration concluded with a day trip to Rosetta – technically part of the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands rather than the Berg proper, but too charming to exclude from this journey. Located about an hour's drive from the central Berg, Rosetta represents the artistic heart of the region, where the natural beauty of the landscape has inspired a thriving community of artisans and food producers.

The town itself is tiny – blink while driving and you might miss it – but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in character. Historic buildings house galleries, craft shops, and cafés that showcase the creative energy of the Midlands. At the Rosetta Market, I discovered handcrafted pottery inspired by Drakensberg rock art, woven textiles incorporating traditional Zulu patterns, and botanical illustrations of indigenous plants that reminded me of my father's scientific sketches.

For families with children, Rosetta offers hands-on creative experiences that provide welcome contrast to the physical activities of the Berg. We participated in a pottery workshop where even the youngest travelers created clay impressions using local plants – tangible souvenirs that now remind us of South Africa's botanical diversity.

The culinary scene in Rosetta deserves special mention. The town's cheese factory produces exceptional artisanal varieties using traditional methods and milk from grass-fed cows that graze the surrounding hills. After sampling more cheeses than I care to admit, I packed several varieties for picnics during the remainder of our trip, along with freshly baked bread from the local bakery.

Our day in Rosetta concluded with a visit to a family-run microbrewery where parents sampled craft beers while children explored the adjacent garden. The brewery's outdoor seating area offered spectacular views of the distant Drakensberg, creating a perfect visual connection between the Midlands and the mountains that had been the focus of our journey.