Beyond the Safari: Urban Adventures in Victoria Falls After Exploring Hwange

Before diving into Victoria Falls' urban landscape, understanding Hwange provides essential context. Zimbabwe's largest national park isn't just a wildlife sanctuary – it's a masterclass in the delicate boundary between wilderness and civilization.

During my week at Hwange, I stayed at Nantwich Lodge, a beautifully repurposed ranger outpost whose architecture tells the story of Zimbabwe's conservation history. The lodge sits on elevated ground, its wide verandas designed to maximize wildlife viewing while creating natural separation between human and animal space. This thoughtful boundary-setting is something I've observed across continents, from Australian outback stations to Scandinavian wilderness cabins.

The park's main camp area functions as a miniature township, complete with a small museum documenting the region's complex relationship between human settlement and wildlife conservation. What fascinated me most was how the camp's layout – with its circular arrangement of buildings around a central water source – mirrors traditional rural Zimbabwean settlements.

Victoria Falls town began as a railway settlement, and this transportation heritage remains central to its urban identity. The journey from Hwange to Vic Falls follows the historic Cape-to-Cairo railway route envisioned by Cecil Rhodes, a complicated colonial figure whose legacy is visible throughout Zimbabwe's built environment.

The Victoria Falls Hotel, constructed in 1904 to house railway workers and early tourists, remains the architectural crown jewel of the town. While staying there wasn't in my mid-range budget this trip (I opted for the excellent Shongwe Lookout instead), I made daily pilgrimages to its terraced gardens for sunset drinks. The hotel's Edwardian elegance, with its wide corridors designed to catch cross-breezes and its strategic positioning for bridge and falls views, offers fascinating insight into colonial-era urban planning.

Don't miss the Victoria Falls Railway Museum, a compact but information-rich collection housed in the original station building. For train enthusiasts, the museum sells limited spots on the inspection trolley that maintenance crews use on the historic Victoria Falls Bridge – an experience that combines engineering appreciation with unparalleled gorge views.

The true pulse of Victoria Falls town beats in its markets and public spaces. After the isolation of Hwange, I found myself craving human interaction, and the town's compact layout makes it perfect for urban exploration on foot.

Start at the central Elephant's Walk Shopping Centre, a thoughtfully designed complex that houses artist studios alongside retail spaces. The architecture incorporates traditional stone and thatch elements with modern lines, creating shaded courtyards where local and international visitors mingle. I spent hours here chatting with sculptors whose work transforms springstone into fluid animal forms.

For a more authentic market experience, head to the Chinotimba Township Market in the residential area about 4km from the tourist center. Here, vendors sell everything from handwoven baskets to street food. I recommend bringing a reusable market bag that folds into a compact pouch – it's perfect for carrying market purchases and reduces plastic waste.

The town's layout reveals its colonial planning history, with wide avenues designed for vehicles rather than pedestrians. However, recent urban improvements have added shaded walkways connecting major attractions. During midday heat, I relied heavily on my cooling towel – simply wet it at one of the public water points, wring it out, and it provides hours of cooling relief while exploring.

What fascinates me most about Victoria Falls town is how its entire urban development revolves around optimizing access to and views of the waterfall. The town exists because of the falls, and this relationship between natural wonder and built environment creates a unique urban planning case study.

The Victoria Falls National Park entrance sits at the end of the main street, creating a pedestrian-friendly gateway to the natural attraction. The park itself features an ingenious network of viewpoints connected by paths that hug the gorge opposite the falls. During my visit in summer, the falls were at maximum flow, creating a drenching mist that required proper rain protection. My waterproof phone pouch proved essential for capturing photos without risking electronics.

For the best architectural appreciation of the falls, I recommend the Zambezi Explorer sunset cruise. Unlike smaller boats, this triple-decker vessel offers elevated viewing platforms that create perfect sightlines to appreciate both the natural gorge formation and the engineering marvel of the bridge spanning it. The upper deck's design, with its cantilevered shade structures, demonstrates how modern tourism infrastructure can complement rather than compete with natural landscapes.

Don't miss the chance to walk across the Victoria Falls Bridge between Zimbabwe and Zambia. This 1905 steel arch construction not only showcases period engineering but offers the best perspective on how the falls created this dramatic landscape. The bridge tour provides fascinating insights into the challenges of building such a structure in a remote location during colonial times.

Victoria Falls offers a fascinating architectural timeline through its accommodation options. The town's hospitality buildings tell the story of Zimbabwe's evolving identity from colonial outpost to independent tourism hub.

I split my stay between two strategically different properties. First, the N1 Hotel Victoria Falls represents modern African design sensibilities – clean lines, locally-sourced materials, and sustainable practices like rainwater harvesting. Its location in the newer part of town provides an interesting contrast to the colonial-era buildings downtown.

For my final three nights, I moved to Batonka Guest Lodge, a boutique property that beautifully reimagines colonial architecture for contemporary comfort. The building's deep verandas, high ceilings, and carefully positioned windows create natural cooling without requiring excessive air conditioning – architectural adaptations to climate that we're increasingly rediscovering as sustainable design principles.

What impressed me most was how both properties incorporated elements of Ndebele and Shona design traditions – geometric patterns, circular forms, and specific color palettes – without resorting to superficial 'safari chic' aesthetics that plague too many African tourism properties. This architectural authenticity reflects a confident Zimbabwe reclaiming its design heritage.