Urban Explorer's Guide to Kaunas: Lithuania's Street Art and Hidden Passages

Before diving into specific locations, it's worth understanding Kaunas' unique urban geography. The city sits at the confluence of Lithuania's two largest rivers—the Nemunas and the Neris—creating a natural division that has shaped its development. The Old Town occupies the eastern bank where these waters meet, while the newer districts spread outward like growth rings on a tree.

Kaunas' development occurred in distinct phases, each leaving its mark on the urban landscape. The medieval Old Town features narrow, winding streets radiating from Town Hall Square. The New Town, developed in the 19th century under Tsarist Russia, follows a more orderly grid pattern. Perhaps most distinctive is the interwar period (1919-1939) when Kaunas served as Lithuania's temporary capital, resulting in a remarkable collection of Modernist and Art Deco buildings—so significant that the district earned a European Heritage Label and is on the UNESCO tentative list.

For efficient exploration, I recommend establishing a base near Laisvės alėja (Liberty Avenue), the pedestrian artery that connects the Old and New Towns. From my research trips, I've learned that a reliable city map is essential despite the prevalence of smartphones—battery life is precious when documenting urban discoveries, and cellular data can be unreliable in some areas. Additionally, Kaunas' public transport system is straightforward but having a physical reference prevents you from standing conspicuously on street corners repeatedly checking your phone.

What fascinates me as a biologist about street art is how it functions as a visual indicator of urban health and adaptation—much like certain species serve as bioindicators in natural ecosystems. Kaunas has one of the most vibrant street art scenes in the Baltic region, with murals that range from whimsical to deeply political.

The epicenter of this creative expression is undoubtedly Kiemo Galerija (Yard Gallery) on E. Ožeškienės g. 21. This courtyard, transformed by artist Vytenis Jakas, began as a project to build community in a fragmented post-Soviet neighborhood. Jakas painted portraits of former Jewish residents who lived here before WWII, creating a haunting memorial that reconnects the present with an erased past. The project expanded as other artists contributed, turning the once-neglected space into an ever-evolving outdoor gallery.

For systematic exploration of Kaunas' street art, I recommend following the 'Wise Old Man' route. This recurring character—a quirky elderly figure with a pink scarf—appears on walls throughout the city, created by artist Linas Kaziulionis. Finding these paintings becomes a delightful scavenger hunt that leads you through neighborhoods tourists rarely see.

Documenting street art requires good photographic equipment. My compact camera proved invaluable for capturing these works in varying light conditions. Its small size makes it unobtrusive when photographing in residential areas, while still providing the image quality needed to capture the intricate details and vivid colors that characterize Kaunas' murals.

The architectural heritage of interwar Kaunas (1919-1939) represents one of the most concentrated collections of Modernist and Art Deco buildings in Europe. As a scientist accustomed to observing adaptation, I find it remarkable how these structures reflect Lithuania's rapid transformation after gaining independence—a nation constructing its identity through built environment.

The most efficient way to survey this architectural phenomenon is to follow Vytauto Prospektas from the Old Town toward the Žaliakalnis district. This street showcases the evolution of architectural styles as you move chronologically through the city's development. Begin at the Central Post Office, a stunning example of Lithuanian National Modernism with its geometric forms softened by folk art motifs. The interior, with its original fixtures and murals, functions as a time capsule of 1930s public design while still serving its original purpose.

Continue to the National M.K. Čiurlionis Art Museum, whose symmetrical facade and monumental stairs epitomize the optimism of the young Lithuanian republic. Inside, the works of Čiurlionis—a pioneering abstract painter and composer—provide cultural context for the architectural movement flourishing around his art.

For those interested in architectural documentation, I've found that a pocket notebook remains indispensable despite our digital age. The process of sketching building details or noting distinctive features engages a different kind of observation than photography alone. During my exploration, I filled several pages with notes on recurring motifs across different buildings, helping me identify patterns I might have missed through the lens of a camera.

Beyond the well-documented street art and architecture, Kaunas offers rich opportunities for more adventurous urban exploration. As someone who has studied how wildlife creates corridors through urban environments, I'm equally fascinated by how humans navigate city spaces through unofficial routes and passages.

The most accessible of these hidden networks is the system of courtyards in the Old Town. Between Vilniaus gatvė and Muitinės gatvė lies a labyrinth of interconnected yards that locals use as shortcuts. Enter through any archway and you'll discover micro-communities with impromptu gardens, unofficial galleries, and small cafés known mainly to residents. These spaces represent what urban ecologists call 'third places'—neither home nor work, but vital social habitats where community bonds form.

For a more elevated perspective, head to Žaliakalnis district where a network of public stairways cuts through the hillside neighborhood. These stairs—some wooden, some stone, many unmarked on tourist maps—were built in the 1920s and 30s as the city expanded uphill. The Christ's Resurrection Basilica dominates the skyline here, but the journey up through these hidden vertical passages reveals domestic architecture and garden plots rarely seen by visitors.

When exploring these less-traveled routes, especially the hillside stairs that can be slippery after summer rain, appropriate footwear is essential. My hiking shoes have proven ideal for urban exploration—waterproof enough for unexpected weather but comfortable for covering substantial distances on varied surfaces. Unlike bulkier hiking boots, they don't mark you immediately as a tourist in urban settings, an important consideration when exploring residential areas respectfully.

No ecological assessment of Kaunas would be complete without examining its Soviet period, which left distinctive architectural and urban planning marks throughout the city. While many post-Soviet cities have rushed to erase this era, Kaunas offers thoughtful opportunities to understand how communities adapt to and repurpose ideologically-charged spaces.

The most accessible example is Laisvės alėja (Freedom Avenue), the main pedestrian boulevard. During Soviet times, the avenue's central Lenin statue served as the city's focal point. After independence, rather than simply removing all traces, the area was transformed into a new kind of public space. The former Lenin site now features a playful kinetic sculpture, while Soviet-era retail buildings have been adaptively reused for contemporary businesses.

For a more immersive experience, visit Kaunas' Ninth Fort Museum on the city's outskirts. Originally built as a fortress in the late 19th century, it was repurposed multiple times—first as a prison during the interwar period, then as a mass execution site during Nazi occupation, and finally as a Soviet museum that presented a carefully controlled historical narrative. Today, the site has been reclaimed once again, with exhibitions that critically examine all these layers of history, including the Soviet period's selective memorialization practices.

The brutalist monument at the Ninth Fort deserves particular attention from urban explorers. Standing 32 meters high, its massive concrete forms create a powerful statement visible from much of the city. Regardless of one's views on the political system that created it, the monument represents a significant artistic achievement and offers insight into how monumental art functioned in Soviet urban planning.

As someone who frequently works with university students in my research, I've developed an appreciation for spaces that foster intellectual exchange without straining limited budgets. Kaunas, with its large student population attending Vytautas Magnus University and Kaunas University of Technology, offers numerous such environments.

For affordable yet quality meals, Spurginė on Laisvės alėja has been serving traditional Lithuanian doughnuts (spurgos) since Soviet times. At approximately €1 for two doughnuts and coffee, it represents not just sustenance but cultural continuity—the shop has maintained its original interior and recipes for decades, creating a time-capsule experience alongside your meal.

Bookstore-café combinations provide excellent study or social environments. Knygų Ministerija (The Ministry of Books) in the Old Town functions as a multilingual bookstore by day and transforms into a cultural venue hosting readings and acoustic concerts by night. Their coffee is reasonably priced, and the staff welcome visitors who linger over a single drink while reading or working.

For evening gatherings, Kultūra offers an excellent case study in adaptive reuse. Housed in a former Soviet-era cinema, this multifunctional space includes a bar with student-friendly prices, an independent film program, exhibition space, and a small concert venue. The interior design thoughtfully incorporates original architectural elements while creating a contemporary atmosphere.

Documenting these experiences has been greatly enhanced by my travel journal, which I've found superior to digital methods for recording observations about social spaces. The physical act of writing and sketching in these environments allows me to blend in as just another patron rather than appearing as an obvious observer, resulting in more authentic experiences and interactions with locals.