Exploring Sibiu's Medieval Heritage: A Walking Tour of the Old Town

My love affair with Sibiu began in its three interconnected squares, each with its own distinct personality yet flowing together like chambers of the same heart. The Piața Mare (Large Square) serves as the grand introduction – a sweeping open space framed by colorful Baroque buildings housing cafes and museums. In spring, the square awakens with outdoor terraces filling with locals sipping their morning coffee, providing the perfect spot for people-watching.

A short passage leads to Piața Mică (Small Square), my favorite of the three. More intimate and enclosed, it feels like stepping into a living painting. The square's defining feature is the Iron Bridge – nicknamed the 'Bridge of Lies' – where local legend claims it will creak and groan if someone tells a falsehood while crossing it. I tested this theory several times (with varying degrees of truthfulness) while sketching the surrounding architecture.

The third square, Piața Huet, centers around the imposing Evangelical Cathedral with its striking 73-meter tower. I spent an entire afternoon here, my back against a sun-warmed wall, filling page after page with quick sketches of tourists and locals moving through this medieval stage set. For the best views of all three squares, I highly recommend climbing the Council Tower (Turnul Sfatului) between Piața Mare and Piața Mică. The 4 lei entrance fee (less than €1) provides access to a panorama that's worth ten times that amount, especially in the golden hour before sunset.

To document these architectural wonders properly, I relied heavily on my compact camera, which proved perfect for capturing the intricate details of doorways and those famous 'eye' windows without lugging around heavy equipment.

Sibiu's nickname – 'The City with Eyes' – becomes immediately apparent as you wander its streets. The distinctive eye-shaped windows in the rooftops create an uncanny sensation of being watched, a feeling that oscillates between comforting and slightly eerie depending on the light and your state of mind. These architectural features were originally designed for ventilation, but they've become the city's most recognizable characteristic.

The Upper Town (Orașul de Sus) houses most of Sibiu's architectural treasures and connects to the Lower Town (Orașul de Jos) via steep passages and stairways that seem to tunnel through time. I spent hours sketching these transitions – the way light filters through narrow passages, creating dramatic contrasts between sunlit upper sections and shadowed lower areas.

For the architectural enthusiast, Sibiu offers an incredible diversity of styles within a compact area. The Brukenthal Palace, now housing Romania's oldest museum, showcases elegant Baroque influences, while the Holy Trinity Roman Catholic Church brings a touch of dramatic Austrian design. The Council Tower combines Gothic elements with Renaissance additions, creating a fascinating architectural timeline in a single structure.

What struck me most was how these buildings tell stories without words. The fortified walls speak of medieval insecurities; the grandiose squares reveal the wealth of Saxon merchants; the modest homes in the Lower Town reflect the lives of craftspeople who sustained the city. As an artist, I found these visual narratives endlessly inspiring, filling an entire sketchbook with impressions and details.

While exploring these architectural wonders, I discovered that comfortable footwear is absolutely essential. My trusty walking shoes saved me from the cobblestone-induced foot pain that I noticed afflicting many tourists in less appropriate footwear.

The true magic of Sibiu reveals itself when you abandon the main tourist paths and venture into the labyrinth of passages connecting the Upper and Lower Towns. These narrow corridors – locally called scări (stairs) or pasaje (passages) – offer glimpses into the medieval soul of the city that many visitors miss entirely.

My favorite discovery was Pasajul Scărilor (Stairs Passage), a steep cobblestone path flanked by the remnants of the old city walls. Descending these worn steps feels like traveling backward through centuries, each turn revealing a new perspective on the town. I spent a peaceful hour here one morning, sketching the play of light across the weathered stones and watching cats sun themselves on ancient windowsills.

Another hidden gem is the Goldsmiths' Square (Piața Aurarilor), tucked away in a quiet corner of the Lower Town. Few tourists venture here, but the square offers a beautiful example of how local residents actually live among these historic structures. Laundry hangs from windows, children play in doorways, and the rhythm of daily life continues much as it has for generations.

For those seeking spiritual corners, the Orthodox Cathedral stands in magnificent contrast to the predominantly Saxon architecture. Its Byzantine influences and golden details create a visual feast that I couldn't resist capturing in watercolor. The cathedral feels newer than much of Sibiu (completed in 1906), but it connects to ancient Eastern Orthodox traditions that add another layer to the city's cultural tapestry.

During my explorations, I relied heavily on my travel journal to document impressions and quick sketches. There's something about putting pen to paper that helps me process these experiences in a way that digital documentation never quite matches.

After three days of exploration, I developed what I consider the perfect mindful walking route through Sibiu – one that balances the major landmarks with quieter moments of discovery. This circuit takes about 2-3 hours at a leisurely pace, longer if you stop for sketching, photography, or coffee as I inevitably do.

Begin in Piața Mare as the morning light illuminates the square. Take time to absorb the atmosphere before the day's tourist crowds arrive. Move to the Council Tower and climb to the top for an orientation view of the entire Old Town. From this vantage point, you can trace the outlines of the medieval city and plan your explorations.

Next, wander through Piața Mică, perhaps stopping at one of the cafés for a Romanian coffee (surprisingly excellent and served with a small glass of water). Continue to the Bridge of Lies, pausing to test its truth-detecting abilities with a harmless fib.

From here, make your way to Piața Huet and the impressive Lutheran Cathedral. If open, step inside to experience the soaring Gothic interior and remarkable pipe organ. Continue along the remains of the medieval walls, following them to one of the passages leading to the Lower Town.

Descend via Pasajul Scărilor, taking your time to absorb the transition between the two parts of the city. In the Lower Town, allow yourself to get a little lost among the colorful houses with their distinctive eye windows. The streets here follow medieval patterns and reward aimless wandering.

For the return journey, climb back to the Upper Town via a different passage and complete your circuit through the small streets behind Piața Mare, eventually returning to your starting point.

To fully document this journey, I used my compact binoculars to study architectural details that would otherwise be missed – particularly useful for examining the intricate details of church spires and the expressions on statuary that adorn many buildings.

No walking tour is complete without strategic culinary pauses, and Sibiu offers delightful options that won't strain your budget. Romanian cuisine blends influences from surrounding cultures while maintaining its distinct character – hearty, flavorful, and surprisingly diverse.

For breakfast, I became a regular at Café Wien on Piața Mică, where the outdoor terrace provides the perfect vantage point for watching the city wake up. Their covrigi (Romanian pretzel-like bread) paired with local cheese became my morning ritual, along with strong Romanian coffee that fueled my explorations.

When lunchtime arrives, seek out La Cuptor on Nicolae Bălcescu Street. This unassuming spot serves incredible sarmale (cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat and rice) and mămăligă (polenta) that transported me straight to a Romanian grandmother's kitchen. The portions are generous and prices modest – perfect for budget travelers.

For an afternoon energy boost, the local specialty papanași – a donut-like pastry topped with sour cream and jam – provides a sweet interlude. I found the best version at Café Erasmus, where the atmosphere is as delightful as the desserts.

Dinner presented the opportunity to sample heartier fare, and I cannot recommend Crama Sibiul Vechi enough. Located in a 15th-century cellar, the restaurant serves traditional Transylvanian dishes like ciorbă (sour soup) and tocăniță (stew) in an atmosphere that feels unchanged for centuries. The candlelit ambiance creates the perfect setting to reflect on the day's discoveries.

For picnic supplies or snacks to carry during your walks, the local Piața Cibin market offers fresh produce, local cheeses, and bread at prices far below what you'd pay at restaurants. I visited each morning to gather supplies for impromptu picnics in quiet corners of the city.

To stay hydrated during long walks, I filled my trusty water bottle at public fountains throughout the city – the water is perfectly safe to drink and refreshingly cold.