Winter Wilderness: Ice Fishing and Northern Lights Adventures in Savonlinna

There's something about drilling through 12 inches of solid ice that connects you to generations of Finnish tradition. Lake Saimaa—Europe's fourth-largest lake—transforms into a vast white playground during winter, dotted with colorful fishing shelters that look like tiny electronic music festival tents against the snow.

My guide Mikko, a third-generation ice fisherman with surprisingly extensive knowledge of Detroit techno, taught me that successful ice fishing requires the same focus I once brought to championship games. We set up with my new ice fishing shelter, which proved essential against the -15°C temperatures and occasional wind gusts.

The methodical process of drilling, setting up, and waiting creates a meditative state I rarely find elsewhere. When I finally pulled up my first pike—a substantial 7kg monster—the rush rivaled hitting a game-winning three-pointer. The difference? This victory was followed by absolute silence, broken only by the occasional crack of shifting ice beneath us.

As a lifelong student of rhythm and movement, nothing prepared me for the choreography of the aurora borealis. Savonlinna sits at the perfect latitude for Northern Lights viewing—far enough north for frequent displays, yet accessible enough for travelers seeking comfort alongside adventure.

After extensive research, I invested in a night photography tripod and a cold-weather headlamp, both proving invaluable during our midnight expeditions.

Our most memorable night began at Retretti Art Center—an underground gallery carved into bedrock that occasionally hosts electronic music events—before heading to Lake Pihlajavesi's frozen expanse. Our guide Elina timed our arrival perfectly with an incoming solar storm. As we set up our camera equipment, the first green wisps appeared, eventually building into a full celestial performance that pulsed and flowed like a visual representation of the ambient tracks I'd discovered in Berlin years ago.

The lights danced for nearly three hours that night. My basketball career taught me to recognize peak performance when I see it—and this was nature's equivalent of a 60-point game in the finals.

Standing on the battlements of Olavinlinna Castle—a 15th-century fortress that seems to rise directly from the frozen lake—I couldn't help but imagine the medieval defenders watching for approaching enemies across the same icy landscape I'd been fishing on days earlier.

What makes Savonlinna truly special is this juxtaposition of ancient and contemporary. By day, I explored the castle's stone corridors and towers, learning how its strategic position controlled vital waterways. By night, I discovered that Savonlinna has cultivated a small but vibrant electronic music scene, with DJs occasionally setting up in repurposed industrial spaces.

My local contact Jukka, who I'd met through music connections in Berlin, introduced me to Happytime Bar—an unassuming venue where Finnish producers blend ambient soundscapes inspired by the surrounding wilderness with more driving techno rhythms. After a day in -20°C temperatures, I was grateful for my merino wool base layer that transitioned perfectly from outdoor adventures to late-night dance sessions.

The contrast between medieval stone walls and forward-thinking electronic music creates a cultural tension that feels uniquely Finnish—a people who honor tradition while embracing innovation.

As a former professional athlete, recovery has always been as important as performance. In Finland, I discovered the ultimate post-adventure therapy—authentic Finnish sauna followed by ice swimming. This combination would become my daily ritual and the perfect counterbalance to long days on frozen lakes.

At Järvisydän Resort & Spa, I experienced the full spectrum of Finnish sauna traditions. Their Lake Spa features five different sauna types, but the smoke sauna (savusauna) provided the most authentic experience. The gentle heat penetrates deeper than any training room therapy I've experienced, reaching muscles I didn't realize were tense from hours of ice fishing in static positions.

The true test of courage comes after the heat—plunging into a hole cut into the frozen lake. That first immersion triggered the same mental battle as facing a championship-deciding free throw. My quick-dry towel proved essential for the rapid transitions between extreme temperatures.

What surprised me most was discovering small bluetooth speakers discretely positioned in some private sauna rooms, where locals sometimes played ambient electronic music at low volume—creating a perfect soundtrack for this mindfulness ritual that has sustained Finns through centuries of extreme winters.

Savonlinna offers accommodations that span from rustic authenticity to refined luxury—often with surprising attention to acoustics that appealed to my musical sensibilities.

My journey began at Wilderness Saimaa, where I stayed in a lakeside glass igloo that provided unobstructed aurora viewing from the comfort of a heated dome. The sleeping mask I packed proved essential during the few hours when I needed darkness for sleep, as these igloos are designed for maximum transparency.

For a more traditional experience, I spent two nights in a wilderness cabin at Loikansaari, accessible only by snowmobile in winter. The cabin's traditional wood-fired sauna and absolute silence created the perfect environment for mental reset. My portable Bluetooth speaker provided ambient soundtracks during evenings spent reviewing fishing techniques and aurora photographs.

The trip concluded at Hotel Punkaharju, a historic wooden building reimagined as a boutique hotel. Their restaurant's focus on foraged ingredients and lake-to-table fish (including pike I had caught myself) created memorable post-adventure meals. The hotel owner—a former fashion model turned hospitality entrepreneur—has thoughtfully integrated elements of design and sustainability that reminded me of Berlin's most forward-thinking spaces.

Each accommodation offered a different perspective on Finnish wilderness, from immersive transparency to historic craftsmanship.