Hidden Beaches of Hilo: 7 Pristine Shorelines Away from Tourist Crowds

Nestled along the Puna coastline just south of Hilo, Kehena Beach requires you to earn your paradise. A steep trail descends through ironwood trees before revealing a crescent of midnight-black sand embraced by dramatic cliffs. I arrived at dawn, travel tripod in hand, to capture the interplay of first light on the obsidian shore.

What struck me wasn't just the dramatic beauty, but the intimacy of the space—a natural amphitheater where the ocean performs daily. The beach is clothing-optional on Sundays, attracting a bohemian crowd, but weekday mornings offer solitude and the occasional company of spinner dolphins arcing through the surf.

The volcanic composition of the sand creates a striking canvas against which couples often appear as silhouettes—a photographer's dream. The contrast between the verdant cliff vegetation and the darkness of the shore creates a visual tension that speaks to Hawaii's ongoing creation through fire and water.

Known to locals as 'Four Mile Beach,' Carlsmith offers something rare in Hilo—a protected swimming area where ancient lava flows have created a natural breakwater. Unlike the dramatic volcanic beaches that dominate the region, Carlsmith presents a series of interconnected turquoise pools where the water remains calm regardless of ocean conditions outside.

What fascinated me as an architectural photographer was how the jagged black lava rock forms natural infinity pools—a design element now coveted in luxury resorts but perfected here by geological forces centuries ago. The contrast between the sharp volcanic rock and the gentle, crystal-clear waters creates a compelling visual narrative about Hawaii's formation.

The park includes grassy areas perfect for picnicking, making it ideal for couples seeking a relaxed day. I recommend bringing a waterproof picnic blanket to spread across the lawn areas between swims. The resident honu (green sea turtles) often feed in the shallows, providing magical underwater photography opportunities if you bring a underwater camera.

Just north of downtown Hilo, Honoli'i Beach offers a glimpse into authentic Hawaiian beach culture. This is where generations of local families have taught their children to navigate the ocean, and where surfing isn't a tourist activity but a continuation of ancient tradition.

The beach features two distinct personalities: a powerful surf break at the mouth of Honoli'i Stream that attracts experienced surfers, and a protected swimming area where the freshwater stream creates a natural pool. The architectural photographer in me was drawn to how the beach is naturally terraced—volcanic shelves creating different elevations that serve as nature's amphitheater for watching surfers.

Visiting at sunset, I captured the silhouettes of local surfers against the fading light, their forms momentarily suspended between water and sky. These moments remind me why I left studio photography behind—no constructed environment can match the authenticity of people in their element, continuing traditions that connect them to place.

Couples who appreciate cultural immersion rather than isolation will find Honoli'i offers a window into local life rarely experienced at resort beaches. Bring a insulated water bottle as there are no concessions nearby.

Sometimes the most extraordinary places exist in plain sight. Coconut Island sits just offshore in Hilo Bay, accessible by a footbridge and visible from downtown, yet many visitors overlook this historical gem. Known to Hawaiians as Mokuola ('Island of Life'), it served as a place of healing in ancient times and a royal residence for ali'i (chiefs).

The island's small, palm-fringed beaches offer intimate swimming spots with views back toward Hilo and the majestic Mauna Kea volcano. What captivated me was the island's perfect proportions—small enough to circumnavigate in twenty minutes, yet containing multiple microclimates and beach types within its modest footprint.

For architectural interest, seek out the remains of a 1930s saltwater swimming pool carved into the lava rock on the island's eastern edge. The pool's crumbling concrete meets volcanic stone in a dialogue between human design and natural forces—the concrete slowly returning to the elements while the volcanic rock remains unchanged.

At sunset, I recommend finding a spot on the western shore with your travel blanket to watch the light change over Hilo town and the distant mountains. The island becomes especially magical as day transitions to evening, when most visitors have departed.

Not all hidden beaches require difficult access. Onekahakaha offers the rare combination of being both off the typical tourist radar yet easily accessible. This protected beach park features a large, shallow swimming area created by an offshore reef and enhanced by man-made improvements—a perfect example of how Hawaiian beach design often blends natural features with subtle human intervention.

What makes Onekahakaha special for couples is the series of small, protected coves along its perimeter where you can claim a semi-private spot among the lava rock formations. The water here is consistently calm and warm, ideal for floating together while watching clouds drift across Hilo's often dramatic sky.

I spent an afternoon documenting how local families use the space—multiple generations gathering under the shade of ironwood trees, children learning to swim in the protected shallows, elders talking story in beach chairs. There's an architectural wisdom in how the space naturally segments into public and private areas, allowing for both community and intimacy.

For couples who appreciate swimming without waves or currents, this is Hilo's perfect compromise—a safe swimming area with enough hidden corners to find your own space. I recommend bringing a floating waterproof phone case so you can take your device into the water for unique perspectives.

Richardson Ocean Park represents what I love most about Hilo's beaches—the seamless blending of cultural significance, natural beauty, and recreational opportunity. Named after the Richardson family who once owned this land, the beach features a striking contrast of black sand, green coconut palms, and a vibrant underwater ecosystem.

What distinguishes Richardson from other black sand beaches is its series of protected pools formed by lava rock outcroppings, creating natural aquariums teeming with colorful fish. The main beach area offers facilities and lifeguards, but venture just a hundred meters in either direction to discover smaller, more secluded coves.

As an architectural photographer, I'm drawn to how the ancient lava flows created natural seawalls and channels, essentially designing the perfect snorkeling environment. The underwater topography includes lava tubes, arches, and caves that provide habitat for Hawaii's marine life—nature's version of a planned community.

For couples interested in snorkeling together, I recommend bringing a full-face snorkel mask which allows for easier communication underwater and a wider field of vision to share discoveries. The kaleidoscope of tropical fish against black lava rock creates a unique underwater color palette unlike the typical coral reef experience.

Twenty miles north of Hilo along the dramatic Hamakua Coast lies Laupahoehoe Point—not a swimming beach but a shoreline experience that captures the raw power of Hawaii's relationship with the ocean. The name means 'leaf of lava' in Hawaiian, describing the flat peninsula of lava rock that extends into the churning Pacific.

What draws me back to Laupahoehoe isn't just its visual drama but its historical significance. A memorial stands to the 24 students and teachers lost in the 1946 tsunami that devastated this area—a somber reminder of the ocean's power. As someone who documents the intersection of human structures and natural environments, I find this place particularly moving; the memorial architecture is simple yet profound against the backdrop of crashing waves.

For couples seeking connection with Hawaii beyond postcard beaches, Laupahoehoe offers a contemplative space where the island's beauty and danger exist in perfect balance. The massive black boulders polished smooth by relentless waves create natural seating areas to witness the ocean's performance.

I recommend bringing a weatherproof jacket as the point catches trade winds and spray from waves. Visit near sunset when the light transforms the wet volcanic rock into a mirror reflecting the changing sky—a natural light show that rivals any human design.