Exploring Asmara on a Shoestring: Budget Travel in Africa's Modernist City

Let's address the elephant in the room: getting into Eritrea isn't straightforward. As someone who's navigated complex visa situations for volunteer deployments across four continents, I can tell you Eritrea ranks among the more challenging entry points. But the bureaucratic hurdles are worth clearing.

You'll need to secure your visa before arrival, which means working with an Eritrean embassy or consulate in your home country. The process typically requires a letter of invitation from an Eritrean tour company or contact. I connected with a local guide named Tekle through a fellow marathon runner who'd previously visited, which streamlined things considerably. Budget around $70-100 for the visa itself.

Once approved, you'll need to register with immigration within three days of arrival and obtain a travel permit for movements outside Asmara. This sounds intimidating, but in practice, your local contact can handle much of this. I kept all my documents organized in a slim travel document organizer which proved invaluable when officials requested papers at various checkpoints.

The entry process might seem daunting, but view it as your first lesson in Eritrean patience – a quality you'll come to appreciate as you adjust to the country's rhythms.

Asmara isn't lined with hostels or backpacker hangouts, which initially concerned my budget-conscious soul. The city caters primarily to business travelers and the Eritrean diaspora returning to visit family. However, this doesn't mean affordable options don't exist – they're just not advertised on major booking platforms.

My home for the week was Sunshine Hotel, a modest but clean establishment near the city center charging about $25/night. Nothing fancy, but the staff treated me like family by day three, brewing traditional coffee each morning and offering insider tips on neighborhood eateries. For those seeking even more budget-friendly options, several family-run guesthouses operate in the residential areas surrounding Liberation Avenue, with rooms from $15-20 nightly.

What these accommodations lack in amenities, they make up for in location and authenticity. I spent evenings on my small balcony watching the distinctive rhythm of Asmara street life unfold – elderly men playing dominoes, teenagers sharing a single pair of earbuds while nodding to music, and the occasional vintage Fiat puttering by.

One unexpected luxury: Asmara's 7,600-foot elevation means cool, comfortable nights even during warmer seasons. I slept with windows open, using the lightweight sleeping bag liner I bring on all my travels – perfect for beds where linens might be questionable (though mine were surprisingly clean).

As a marathon runner, I've developed a habit of exploring new cities on foot, treating urban landscapes as my personal race course. Asmara is perfectly suited for this approach – compact, walkable, and filled with architectural surprises around every corner.

I created my own daily running/walking routes that doubled as architectural tours. The city's layout is remarkably pedestrian-friendly, with wide boulevards and minimal traffic. Each morning, I'd lace up my running shoes before dawn and put in 5-7 miles, watching the city wake up while documenting modernist masterpieces bathed in golden hour light.

The crown jewel is the Fiat Tagliero Building – a futurist structure resembling an airplane poised for takeoff. Built in 1938, this former service station stands as the world's most audacious example of futurist architecture. I timed my visit for late afternoon when shadows accentuate its dramatic cantilevers.

Other must-see structures include the Cinema Impero with its Art Deco façade, the Romanesque Asmara Cathedral, and the former Opera House. What makes these buildings remarkable isn't just their design but their preserved condition – when Italy's colonial presence ended, the architecture remained frozen in time, creating an open-air museum of early 20th-century modernism.

I tracked my architectural explorations using my trusty GPS running watch, which not only logged my daily mileage but created GPS maps I could reference later. This proved invaluable for retracing my steps to buildings I wanted to photograph in different light.

Few travelers know that Asmara harbors a fascinating musical heritage, particularly from the 1960s and 70s when Eritrean jazz and funk flourished. As someone who seeks out record stores in every city I visit, hunting down Asmara's musical artifacts became a personal mission.

My first discovery came accidentally while exploring a side street off Harnet Avenue. A small shop with no formal signage displayed a few dusty record covers in the window. Inside, the elderly owner, Dawit, maintained a modest collection of Eritrean and Ethiopian vinyl – including treasures from the golden age of Asmara's jazz scene. Despite our language barrier, music became our common tongue as he played selections on a vintage turntable.

Through Dawit's recommendations, I found my way to a weekend market near the Mai Jah Jah neighborhood where occasional vendors sell second-hand records. Here, I uncovered a pristine copy of Eritrean legend Abraham Afwerki's recordings – a find that had me grinning for days.

Transporting vinyl safely while traveling can be challenging. I always pack a collapsible record carrying case that folds nearly flat in my luggage until needed. This protected my musical souvenirs through multiple flights and bumpy land crossings.

Beyond the physical records, these musical excavations connected me with locals who shared stories of Asmara's cultural heyday – tales of jazz clubs where Italian architectural spaces vibrated with distinctly African sounds, creating something uniquely Eritrean.

Food in Asmara reflects its unique historical position – Italian colonial influence layered over traditional East African cuisine creates something entirely distinctive. The best part for budget travelers? You can eat remarkably well for very little.

Injera, the sourdough flatbread that serves as both plate and utensil, forms the foundation of most meals. At local restaurants like Ghibabo, a massive injera topped with several wat (stew) varieties costs around $3-5 and easily feeds two. The berbere-spiced dishes build a slow, pleasant heat that's perfect fuel for long walking days.

Asmara's Italian heritage shines through its café culture and pasta dishes. Bar Vittoria near the Roman Catholic Cathedral serves espresso that rivals anything in Rome for a fraction of the price (about 30 cents). Their pasta dishes – often with unique Eritrean twists like berbere-spiced sauce – run $2-4 for generous portions.

Street food provides the most economical option. Sambusas (similar to samosas) filled with lentils or meat make perfect walking snacks at about 25 cents each. For breakfast, I became addicted to ful – a fava bean dish with olive oil, onions and berbere served with fresh bread for scooping, available from morning street vendors for about $1.

To stay hydrated while exploring, I relied on my water filter bottle which allowed me to safely refill from any source. This saved both money and reduced plastic waste in a city where recycling infrastructure is limited.

My travels have always led me to spiritual centers, finding them to be windows into a culture's soul. While Asmara's modernist architecture initially drew me here, it was the city's religious spaces that provided the deepest connections.

Debre Bizen Monastery, located about 25km from Asmara, became my most meaningful day trip. Perched dramatically atop a mountain, this Orthodox monastery dates to the 1350s. The journey there requires either hiring a driver (around $30 round-trip) or catching a series of local minibuses and walking the final stretch – I chose the latter adventure, spending about $5 total.

Women travelers note: traditional rules prevent women from entering the monastery grounds, though the journey and views remain worthwhile. As a male traveler, I was permitted entry after covering my legs and removing shoes. Inside, monks showed me ancient manuscripts and religious artifacts preserved for centuries. The monastery maintains a vow of vegetarianism, and visitors can share a simple meal with the monks – one of the most authentic experiences of my trip.

Closer to Asmara's center, the Nda Mariam Othodox Church offers a more accessible spiritual experience. Its distinctive architecture blends Italian influences with Ethiopian Orthodox traditions. I timed my visit to coincide with Sunday services, where the rhythmic chanting and ceremonial movements created a meditative atmosphere unlike anything in Western religious practices.

For these visits to religious sites, I always pack a quick-dry travel towel that doubles as a head covering or wrap for shoulders when modest dress is required. This ultralight addition to my daypack has proven invaluable across religious sites worldwide.