Artisan Treasures: Shopping Guide to Asmara's Italian-Inspired Markets

Asmara presents a shopping experience unlike anywhere else in Africa—or perhaps the world. The Italian influence manifests in an appreciation for quality materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and aesthetic refinement, while Eritrean traditions bring distinctive patterns, cultural symbolism, and techniques passed through generations.

What struck me immediately was the pace. Unlike the frenetic energy of markets in Marrakech or Istanbul, shopping in Asmara unfolds with an unhurried elegance. Artisans take time to explain their work, often inviting you into their workshops where you might be offered a cup of bun, traditional Eritrean coffee served in a ceremonial ritual that creates natural pauses in your shopping journey.

The city's shopping districts reflect distinct historical influences. The central Harnet Avenue (formerly Liberty Avenue during Italian occupation) houses more upscale boutiques in modernist buildings, while the labyrinthine Medebar Market represents traditional craftsmanship in its purest form. Between these poles exists a fascinating spectrum of shopping experiences.

Perhaps most surprising for first-time visitors is the relative absence of aggressive haggling. While negotiation is expected, it's conducted with restraint and mutual respect. Prices start reasonably, and the goal is finding a fair value that honors the artisan's work while satisfying the buyer. This approach aligns perfectly with the sustainable luxury ethos that I've always advocated—paying appropriately for quality craftsmanship rather than seeking bargains at all costs.

My fascination with Medebar Market began three years ago during my first visit to Asmara and deepens with each return. This sprawling open-air workshop and marketplace represents the beating heart of Eritrean craftsmanship, particularly metalwork. Here, artisans transform recycled materials—from old oil drums to decommissioned military equipment—into everything from practical household items to sophisticated decorative pieces.

On my recent spring visit, I spent two full mornings with Dawit, a third-generation metalworker whose specialty is creating intricate coffee sets that blend Italian design sensibilities with traditional Eritrean motifs. His workshop, a modest corrugated metal structure tucked behind rows of similar establishments, belies the sophistication of his creations. Using tools inherited from his grandfather (who learned the trade during Italian occupation), Dawit crafts coffee pots (jebena) that would not look out of place in a Milan design studio.

"The Italian influence taught us precision," Dawit explained while demonstrating his technique, "but the soul of the designs remains Eritrean."

Beyond coffee sets, Medebar offers extraordinary finds for the discerning shopper. I was particularly drawn to the filigree silver jewelry, a craft with centuries of history in the region. These delicate pieces—often incorporating coins or geometric patterns—make exceptional gifts that capture Eritrea's unique cultural heritage. For documenting these treasures, my travel camera proved invaluable, capturing the intricate details of metalwork in challenging lighting conditions.

The most coveted items in Medebar, however, are the hand-forged copper and brass home accessories. Unlike mass-produced alternatives found elsewhere, these pieces carry subtle variations that testify to their handcrafted nature. I purchased a set of brass candlesticks with a patina that suggests decades of history, despite being recently made.

While Medebar Market captures most tourist attention, the true connoisseur of leather goods should venture to Asmara's southern Godaif district. Here, in modest workshops often attached to family homes, I discovered leather craftsmanship that rivals products from renowned European fashion houses—at a fraction of the price.

The Italian colonial period established a strong leather-working tradition in Eritrea, with techniques and standards imported directly from Italy's prestigious leather centers. Today, these methods blend with traditional Eritrean approaches to create distinctive pieces that honor both influences.

My most significant find came through a connection made at my hotel. After mentioning my interest in quality leather goods to the concierge at Albergo Italia (the historic hotel where I always stay in Asmara), I received an introduction to Feven, a third-generation leather artisan whose grandfather trained in Florence before establishing their family workshop in the 1930s.

Feven's atelier, unmarked and accessible only through a residential courtyard, revealed treasures that would command premium prices in Paris or Milan. Her signature pieces—document portfolios and travel accessories—feature butter-soft leather in rich cognac and deep olive tones, with subtle embossed patterns inspired by traditional Eritrean textiles.

"Each hide is vegetable-tanned using methods unchanged for centuries," Feven explained while showing me her workshop. "We source primarily from local livestock, supporting Eritrean herders while maintaining control over quality."

For travelers seeking truly exceptional souvenirs, I recommend commissioning a custom piece. During my visit, I ordered a leather travel journal with my initials subtly embossed on the spine—though Feven's craftsmanship far exceeds even premium commercial versions. Allow at least three days for completion of custom work, and expect to pay approximately 30-40% of what comparable quality would cost in Western markets.

Asmara's textile traditions represent perhaps the most fascinating intersection of Italian and Eritrean influences. The city's history as a manufacturing center during Italian occupation established infrastructure for textile production that continues today, albeit on a smaller scale.

My exploration began at the former Barattolo textile factory—once Italy's largest industrial complex in East Africa, now partially repurposed as a mixed-use space where several small-scale textile producers operate. Here, I discovered Elsa, whose studio specializes in textiles that blend Italian modernist patterns with traditional Eritrean weaving techniques.

"The Italian period brought new geometric designs that we incorporated into our traditional patterns," Elsa explained while showing me through her collection. "What you see now is neither purely Italian nor purely Eritrean, but something uniquely Asmarino."

Her most compelling pieces are hand-woven cotton throws and table linens featuring subtle patterns that would complement contemporary interiors while carrying profound cultural significance. I purchased several table runners that now serve as conversation pieces in my Lyon apartment, telling a story of cultural fusion that few guests can identify but all appreciate.

For those seeking more traditional Eritrean textiles, the shops surrounding St. Mary's Cathedral offer exceptional finds. Here, I discovered netela (traditional white cotton shawls with colorful borders) of extraordinary quality. The finest examples feature hand-embroidered details that can require weeks of work to complete.

During my visit, I was fortunate to meet with a collective of women weavers who maintain traditional techniques while incorporating contemporary elements. Their workshop, located in a former Italian administrative building, produces textiles that honor heritage while remaining relevant for modern use. I was particularly drawn to their lightweight cotton-silk blend scarves—perfect for European spring weather and subtle enough to integrate into professional wardrobes.

To properly store these textile treasures during travel, I recommend using a packing organizer which protects delicate fabrics while maximizing suitcase space.

While traditional craftsmanship forms the backbone of Asmara's shopping experience, my most recent visit revealed an emerging scene of contemporary designers who reinterpret heritage techniques for modern sensibilities. This movement, largely centered around graduates from the Asmara School of Fine Arts, represents the future of Eritrean design and offers sophisticated shoppers access to pieces that won't be found elsewhere.

My introduction to this world came through Biniam, a young designer whose studio near Cinema Impero showcases his distinctive jewelry combining traditional filigree techniques with minimalist contemporary forms. His signature pieces—sterling silver pendants featuring abstracted motifs from Eritrean cultural symbols—have gained recognition in European design publications yet remain relatively unknown to international visitors.

"We're creating a new Eritrean design language," Biniam told me during my studio visit. "One that honors our complex heritage while speaking to contemporary aesthetics."

Beyond jewelry, this new wave of Eritrean design encompasses home accessories, limited edition prints, and even fashion. At Geza Gallery, a cooperative space established by five young designers, I discovered remarkable ceramics that reference Italian rationalist architecture (abundant in Asmara) while incorporating traditional Eritrean patterns in their glazing techniques.

Perhaps most exciting for the design-conscious traveler are the limited-edition art books and prints documenting Asmara's architectural heritage. These beautifully produced volumes—often hand-bound in locally produced leather—represent both meaningful souvenirs and important cultural documentation. I purchased a striking portfolio of photographs capturing Asmara's futurist gas station and other modernist landmarks, printed using traditional techniques on handmade paper.

For properly displaying these art pieces upon returning home, I've found that a floating frame provides an elegant presentation that honors the artistic integrity of these works while protecting them for years to come.

The final consideration for the discerning shopper in Asmara involves understanding the regulations governing the export of your carefully selected treasures. Eritrea maintains strict but navigable rules regarding cultural artifacts, particularly those with historical significance.

During my first visit, I made the mistake of purchasing an antique silver Orthodox cross without proper documentation, resulting in a tense discussion with customs officials upon departure. I've since learned that items over 100 years old require export permits from the National Museum of Eritrea—a process that's straightforward but requires advance planning.

For contemporary crafts and design pieces, export restrictions are minimal, though proper receipts should be retained. I recommend photographing receipts and storing digital copies as backup, as paper receipts can be easily misplaced during travel.

Certain materials may trigger additional scrutiny. Items containing ivory or other protected materials are strictly prohibited for export, and leather goods may be subject to agricultural inspection when entering your home country. When purchasing leather items, request certification that they're produced from domestically raised livestock rather than wild animals.

The most practical approach is addressing potential export concerns at the time of purchase. Reputable vendors understand these requirements and can provide appropriate documentation. The small shops along Harnet Avenue are particularly experienced with international visitors and often prepare export documentation proactively.

For valuable purchases, I recommend carrying items in your cabin luggage rather than checking them. My carry-on backpack has specialized compartments that have safely transported everything from delicate filigree jewelry to small metalwork pieces across multiple continents without damage.

Finally, declare all significant purchases upon return to your home country. While this may occasionally result in duty assessments, it prevents potential confiscation and provides legal protection for your Eritrean treasures.