48 Hours in Bandar Seri Begawan: Brunei's Capital of Contrasts

My first morning in Bandar Seri Begawan began with the quintessential Bruneian experience: watching sunrise illuminate the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque. This architectural masterpiece sits like a jewel in the heart of the city, its golden dome reflecting in the surrounding lagoon with postcard perfection. I arrived just after dawn prayers, when the soft morning light painted the marble exterior in warm hues and the crowds were still thin.

The mosque's blend of Mughal and Italian architectural influences creates a structure of breathtaking elegance. As a passionate architectural photographer, I found myself constantly adjusting my camera settings to capture the interplay of light on the mosque's 44-meter minaret and the ceremonial stone boat floating in the lagoon—a replica of a 16th-century royal barge.

After exploring the mosque's exterior (remember to dress modestly), I headed to the nearby Jame'Asr Hassanil Bolkiah Mosque. While Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque is the more famous of the two, this newer mosque is actually Brunei's largest, featuring 29 golden domes representing the 29th Sultan of Brunei. The intricate Islamic geometric patterns and lush gardens surrounding it provide a masterclass in contemporary Islamic architecture.

What struck me most was the tranquility of these spaces. Unlike the bustling temple complexes of neighboring countries, Brunei's religious sites offer a sense of serene contemplation that feels increasingly rare in our hyperconnected world.

After a quick lunch of nasi katok (Brunei's beloved fried chicken and rice dish) from a local warung, I headed to the waterfront to explore what many call the 'Venice of the East'—Kampong Ayer. This sprawling water village has been continuously inhabited for over 1,000 years, making it one of the largest and oldest water settlements in the world.

I hired a small water taxi from the main jetty (negotiate the price before boarding—I paid about 30 Brunei dollars for a private hour-long tour) and glided beneath houses perched on wooden stilts. My guide, a third-generation Kampong Ayer resident, pointed out schools, mosques, police stations, and even fire departments—all built above the Brunei River. It's quite literally a complete city on water.

The contrast between the water village and the gleaming modern buildings of downtown BSB couldn't be starker. Yet there's something profoundly authentic about life in Kampong Ayer that resonates with my interest in living heritage. Many residents have modern amenities—satellite dishes sprout from traditional wooden roofs, and water taxis function as the local equivalent of Uber.

Midway through our tour, we stopped at the Kampong Ayer Cultural & Tourism Gallery, a small museum offering insights into the water village's history. The gallery's observation tower provides spectacular panoramic views of the settlement's sprawling network of boardwalks and buildings.

After returning to the main jetty, I spent time wandering along the waterfront promenade as afternoon turned to evening. I always travel with my compact binoculars, which proved invaluable for spotting proboscis monkeys in the mangroves across the river—their distinctive long noses visible even at a distance.

As dusk settled over the city, I made my way to the exterior grounds of Istana Nurul Iman—the Sultan's official residence and the world's largest residential palace. While the palace interior is only open to the public during Hari Raya celebrations at the end of Ramadan, the exterior views from the Taman Persiaran Damuan Park are impressive enough, with the palace's 1,788 rooms and golden domes visible across the water.

The scale is almost incomprehensible—the palace is larger than Vatican City and has more than four times the floor space of Versailles. It's a tangible reminder of Brunei's oil wealth and the Sultan's status as one of the world's richest monarchs.

With evening fully descended, I headed to Gadong Night Market (Pasar Malam Gadong), about 15 minutes from the city center. This bustling market is where BSB truly comes alive after dark. Rows of stalls serve everything from satay and grilled fish to more unusual local delicacies like ambuyat (sago starch eaten with fermented durian sauce).

I've visited countless night markets across Southeast Asia, but Gadong stands out for its spotless facilities and the absence of alcohol (Brunei is a dry country under Sharia law). This creates a family-friendly atmosphere where the focus is entirely on food and socializing.

I sampled my way through several stalls, paying special attention to local Bruneian specialties. My favorites included beef rendang with a distinctly Bruneian spice profile and cendol, a refreshing dessert of shaved ice, palm sugar, and pandan jelly that provided welcome relief from the tropical evening heat. Most dishes cost between 1-3 BND, making this an affordable dinner option.

One travel essential that served me well during this evening exploration was my crossbody travel bag. It kept my camera, phone and wallet secure while leaving my hands free to navigate the market and sample the street food offerings.

I dedicated my second morning to understanding Brunei's royal heritage at the Royal Regalia Museum. This surprisingly engaging museum houses an extensive collection of gifts presented to the Sultan from world leaders, ceremonial regalia, and a detailed chronicle of the current Sultan's life and coronation.

The centerpiece is a recreation of the coronation ceremony with life-sized figures wearing elaborate traditional costumes. The craftsmanship of the royal regalia—particularly the gold and jewel-encrusted crowns, ceremonial weapons, and thrones—is truly extraordinary. What makes this museum special is that it offers genuine insight into Brunei's monarchy and its central role in national identity rather than just displaying shiny objects.

After checking my shoes and bag (no photography allowed inside), I spent about two hours exploring the exhibits. The museum is air-conditioned to near-Arctic levels, which provides welcome relief from Brunei's humidity but had me reaching for the light travel scarf I always carry in my daypack.

From the museum, I walked to nearby Teng Yun Temple, Brunei's oldest Chinese temple. Though small, this temple offers a fascinating counterpoint to the Islamic architecture dominating the city. The red and gold decorations and the scent of incense provide a reminder of Brunei's diverse cultural makeup, with significant Chinese and Indigenous communities alongside the Malay Muslim majority.

Before lunch, I visited the Brunei Arts and Handicrafts Training Centre, where traditional crafts like songket weaving (brocade textile woven with gold or silver threads) and silversmithing are preserved through active teaching programs. I'm always drawn to places that maintain living traditions rather than simply displaying them behind glass, and watching the intricate weaving process gave me a deeper appreciation for the gorgeous textiles I'd seen throughout the city.

For my final afternoon, I ventured beyond the city center to explore Brunei's surprising biodiversity on a mangrove river safari. I booked through my hotel (most accommodations can arrange this) for about 85 BND for a 2-3 hour private tour, though shared options are available for around 35-45 BND per person.

After a short drive to the Brunei River jetty, I boarded a small motorboat and headed into the tangled waterways of the mangrove forests. Within minutes of leaving the jetty, the urban environment disappeared completely, replaced by dense greenery and the distinctive silence of wetland wilderness, broken only by bird calls and the gentle putt-putt of our boat engine.

My guide expertly navigated the narrow channels, pointing out wildlife I would have completely missed without his trained eye. The undisputed stars of the tour are the proboscis monkeys—a species endemic to Borneo, instantly recognizable by the males' enormous pendulous noses. We spotted several family groups lounging in the trees, including adorable babies clinging to their mothers.

Beyond the monkeys, we saw macaques, monitor lizards, and a stunning variety of birds including kingfishers and hornbills. The boat moved slowly and kept a respectful distance from the animals, which I greatly appreciated as a proponent of responsible wildlife tourism.

As the afternoon progressed, we reached a wider section of river where the mangroves open to reveal Brunei's famed water village from a different perspective. Seeing Kampong Ayer from the outer edges, with the gleaming dome of Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque visible in the distance beyond the stilt houses, perfectly encapsulated Brunei's fascinating blend of natural beauty, traditional lifestyles, and modern Islamic grandeur.

This tour was a highlight of my visit and a reminder of why I travel with my waterproof phone case for adventures like these—it allowed me to capture photos without worrying about water damage from spray as our boat navigated the channels.

For my final evening in Bandar Seri Begawan, I sought a perspective that would tie together the various elements of this multifaceted city. I found it at the Yayasan Shopping Complex's waterfront, where modern retail meets traditional waterways.

The complex itself represents Brunei's more contemporary side—a shopping center with international brands alongside local boutiques. But it's the waterfront promenade behind the complex that offers magic as the day closes. From here, you can watch water taxis ferrying residents home to Kampong Ayer against the backdrop of the Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque glowing golden in the evening light.

I settled in at a café along the waterfront and ordered teh tarik (pulled tea) and pisang goreng (fried bananas)—simple pleasures that taste somehow better with a view. As darkness fell, the mosque and government buildings illuminated, creating a light show reflected in the still waters of the Brunei River.

This final vantage point offered the perfect synthesis of my 48 hours in BSB: the historical water village, the magnificent religious architecture, and the comfortable modernity that oil wealth has brought to this small nation, all existing in remarkable harmony.

Before heading back to my hotel, I walked to the nearby Eco Corridor—a recently developed riverfront park that locals flock to in the evenings. Families picnicked on manicured lawns while joggers utilized the walking paths. It was a glimpse into everyday Bruneian life rarely seen by short-term visitors, and a reminder that beyond the golden domes and royal pageantry lies a community going about their lives in one of Southeast Asia's most peaceful countries.

For this evening stroll, I was grateful for my packable daypack that folds into its own pocket when not needed but provided ample space for my camera, water bottle, and light jacket for the cooler evening air.