Edinburgh Beyond the Royal Mile: Local's 3-Day Itinerary to Hidden Gems

The Royal Mile may be Edinburgh's spine, but its ribs—the narrow alleys or 'closes' branching off it—hold the city's most fascinating stories. Begin your morning at The Edinburgh Larder on Blackfriars Street for a proper Scottish breakfast. Their locally-sourced ingredients make for a sublime plate of eggs and black pudding that will fuel your explorations.

Rather than following the crowds straight to Edinburgh Castle, take a detour down Advocate's Close, where you'll find stunning views across to the New Town. Continue to Dunbar's Close Garden, a hidden 17th-century-style garden that offers peaceful respite from the bustle. I discovered this tranquil spot during my second visit to Edinburgh and now make it a ritual to bring my morning coffee here when in town.

For lunch, bypass the tourist traps for The Devil's Advocate, tucked away in an old Victorian pump house down another atmospheric close. Their Scottish-inspired menu and extensive whisky selection make it a perfect introduction to local flavors.

In the afternoon, join the Real Mary King's Close tour to explore the preserved 17th-century streets buried beneath the Royal Mile—a genuinely eerie experience that reveals how Edinburgh's poorest residents once lived. As an occupational therapist, I particularly appreciate that they offer accessible routes with advance notice.

End your day at Sandy Bell's, a traditional folk music pub where locals and visitors share tables while enjoying live music sessions. I've spent countless evenings here, sometimes joining in with borrowed instruments when the mood strikes. The intimate atmosphere provides a perfect introduction to Scottish folk traditions without an ounce of tourist pretense.

Edinburgh's port district of Leith offers a refreshing contrast to the Old Town's medieval atmosphere. Begin your day with breakfast at Twelve Triangles on Brunswick Street, where their sourdough and pastries are the stuff of local legend.

From there, walk down to The Shore area, where the Water of Leith meets the Firth of Forth. This once-rough harbor district has transformed into one of Edinburgh's most exciting culinary and cultural hubs. The architecture here tells the story of Edinburgh's maritime history, with converted warehouses now housing hip apartments and restaurants.

Don't miss the Scottish National Portrait Gallery on your way to or from Leith—it's housed in a spectacular neo-gothic building and offers a more intimate experience than its larger cousin on the Mound. Their collection of Scottish historical figures provides excellent context for understanding the nation's complex history.

For lunch, The King's Wark on The Shore offers hearty Scottish fare in a building dating back to 1432. Their culinary approach emphasizes Scottish seafood and seasonal ingredients.

In the afternoon, explore the Royal Yacht Britannia, the former floating residence of the British Royal Family. As someone fascinated by the intersection of history and lived experience, I find the yacht offers an intriguing glimpse into royal life. The audio guide is excellent, and the vessel is largely wheelchair accessible—something I always appreciate noting for my readers with mobility considerations.

For dinner, book ahead at The Kitchin, Tom Kitchin's Michelin-starred restaurant that showcases Scottish ingredients with French techniques. If that's beyond your budget, Fishers offers delicious seafood in a more casual setting.

End your evening with a nightcap at Teuchters Landing, a local pub with an exceptional whisky selection housed in an old ferry waiting room. Their heated outdoor pontoon seating area offers lovely views over the water—I spent a memorable summer evening here during my last visit, sampling rare Highland malts while watching boats come and go in the harbor.

For your final day, escape the city center entirely to explore the enchanting Dean Village, a former milling community that feels worlds away from Edinburgh's bustle despite being just minutes from Princes Street.

Start with breakfast at Lovecrumbs on West Port, where their creative baking and excellent coffee will fuel your day. From there, walk toward Stockbridge—one of Edinburgh's most charming neighborhoods—and follow signs to Dean Village.

The moment you descend into this picturesque settlement on the Water of Leith, you'll understand why it's my favorite spot in Edinburgh. Colorful 19th-century buildings cluster around the rushing water that once powered the village's grain mills. The atmosphere is almost fairy-tale-like, especially on quiet mornings.

From Dean Village, follow the Water of Leith Walkway toward the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. The path winds alongside the river through a green corridor that feels remarkably wild considering its urban location. I never visit Edinburgh without walking this route—it offers both tranquility and a perspective on the city few tourists experience.

The Modern Art Gallery itself deserves at least an hour of your time. Housed in two buildings (Modern One and Modern Two), the collection includes works by Picasso, Warhol, and Scottish artists like Eduardo Paolozzi. The sculpture garden is particularly impressive and accessible for all mobility levels.

For lunch, head to The Scran & Scallie, a gastropub by Michelin-starred chef Tom Kitchin in nearby Stockbridge. Their elevated pub classics represent Scottish comfort food at its finest.

In the afternoon, explore Stockbridge's charity shops and independent boutiques, or if the weather permits, climb Calton Hill for panoramic city views less crowded than Arthur's Seat. I recommend bringing a compact binoculars to fully appreciate the cityscape details and distant landmarks.

For your final evening, treat yourself to dinner at Timberyard, housed in a converted warehouse with a seasonal menu focusing on foraged and preserved ingredients. Their cocktail program, featuring house-made infusions and local spirits, provides a fitting farewell to this city of hidden treasures.

As someone who regularly documents accessibility in historical settings, I feel compelled to address Edinburgh's particular challenges. The city's dramatic topography and medieval layout create obstacles that require advance planning.

The Old Town, with its steep closes and cobbled streets, presents the greatest difficulties. However, many major attractions have made significant improvements. Edinburgh Castle offers an accessible route that covers about 80% of the visitor areas, while the National Museum of Scotland has excellent elevator access throughout.

The New Town, with its wider streets and more gradual inclines, is generally more navigable. Many buses are low-floor accessible, and taxis can be a practical option for longer journeys.

For those with mobility considerations, I recommend basing yourself in the New Town near Waverley Station, where the terrain is less challenging. The Premier Inn Edinburgh Princes Street offers accessible rooms with outstanding castle views. From this central location, you can more easily plan routes that avoid the steepest hills.

During my visits documenting accessible routes, I've found Edinburgh's locals exceptionally helpful. Don't hesitate to ask for assistance or alternative route suggestions. The city's information centre on the Royal Mile can provide detailed accessibility maps.

For getting around, I recommend the Edinburgh City Pass, which includes public transport and entry to major attractions, many of which have prioritized accessibility improvements in recent years.

Remember that many historical sites require advance notice to arrange specific accommodations or alternative entrances. I suggest contacting attractions at least 48 hours before your visit to ensure the best experience.

While traditional Scottish fare certainly deserves exploration (yes, properly prepared haggis is actually delicious), Edinburgh's food scene extends far beyond the stereotypes. The city has undergone a culinary renaissance in recent years, with chefs celebrating Scottish ingredients through contemporary techniques.

For breakfast, Archipelago Bakery on Dundas Street creates exceptional sourdough and pastries—their cinnamon buns are legendary among locals. Meanwhile, The Pantry in Stockbridge serves what I consider the city's best brunch, featuring free-range eggs from East Lothian and house-smoked salmon.

Coffee culture has exploded in Edinburgh, with specialty cafes like Fortitude, Lowdown, and Brew Lab elevating the scene beyond chain offerings. As someone who requires good coffee before any historical exploration, I keep a list of these establishments mapped against my walking routes.

For lunch, seek out Oink on Victoria Street for simple but spectacular slow-roasted pork sandwiches, or Bross Bagels for Montreal-style bagels with Scottish fillings. Mosque Kitchen near the university offers fantastic curry at student-friendly prices—a reminder of Edinburgh's multicultural influences.

Evening meals present endless possibilities. Aizle pioneered Edinburgh's tasting menu scene with a no-choice approach based on seasonal Scottish ingredients. Noto blends Scottish produce with Asian techniques in a relaxed setting. For traditional Scottish cooking with modern flair, Cafe St Honoré remains unbeatable.

Don't miss Edinburgh's vibrant street food scene at the Stockbridge Market (Sundays) and Pitt Street Market in Leith (weekends). I always pack my compact travel cutlery for these spontaneous food adventures—it's lightweight, sustainable, and prevents the guilt of disposable plastics.

For those interested in Scottish spirits beyond whisky, Edinburgh's gin scene is booming. Book a tour at Edinburgh Gin or the Pickering's Gin distillery at Summerhall. The city has also embraced craft beer, with local breweries like Pilot and Campervan producing excellent options available in pubs throughout the city.