Edinburgh's Hidden History: 7 Overlooked Historical Gems Beyond the Castle

Descending into Gilmerton Cove feels like entering another dimension—one carved meticulously beneath Edinburgh's streets. This network of hand-carved passageways and chambers dates back at least 300 years, though its true origins remain shrouded in mystery. As a pilot accustomed to soaring above landscapes, I find profound contrast in these subterranean spaces, where time seems suspended in the cool, damp air.

Theories about Gilmerton Cove's purpose range from illicit drinking den to Covenanters' refuge to druid temple. During my last visit with a fellow history enthusiast, our guide illuminated the chambers with tales of secret societies while we examined peculiar carvings and stone furniture. The most fascinating aspect? Archaeologists still can't agree on who built it or why.

Booking ahead is essential as tours are intimate affairs limited to 12 people. I recommend wearing sturdy footwear with good traction—the waterproof hiking boots I wore kept me comfortable on the uneven stone floors while protecting against the occasional water seepage.

While tourists crowd Edinburgh Castle, I often slip away to Craigmillar Castle, just three miles southeast of the city center. This remarkably complete medieval fortress offers what pilots like me crave: perspective. From its tower house, you'll enjoy panoramic views of Edinburgh that few tourists ever witness.

Craigmillar earned its place in history as Mary Queen of Scots' refuge after the birth of her son James. It was here that the infamous 'Craigmillar Bond'—the plot to eliminate Lord Darnley—was hatched. Walking through the remarkably intact great hall, I always pause to imagine Mary's footsteps echoing on these same stone floors.

What makes Craigmillar special is how freely you can explore its nooks and crannies without ropes or restrictions. Climb the spiral staircases, discover hidden chambers, and wander the orchard where Mary once strolled. The preservation level rivals many more famous castles, yet you'll often have entire sections to yourself—a luxury unheard of at Edinburgh Castle.

For capturing the atmospheric interior passageways, I've found my smartphone tripod indispensable for low-light photography without flash, allowing me to document architectural details while respecting the historical ambiance.

Beneath the Royal Mile lies a time capsule that never fails to give me goosebumps: Mary King's Close, a perfectly preserved 17th-century street sealed off and built over after the plague. Unlike Edinburgh's manufactured 'ghost experiences,' this is authentic history—tangible, sobering, and utterly fascinating.

On my first visit, our guide Annie illuminated the close with stories of real residents: the plague doctor with his bird-like mask, the merchant Mary King herself, and the little girl Annie who allegedly haunts a chamber (visitors still leave toys for her). What struck me most was seeing the actual living conditions—tiny rooms where entire families lived, worked, and often died.

The preservation is remarkable—original wall paintings, period furniture, and architectural details intact. As someone who's explored historical sites worldwide, I can attest this ranks among the most authentic immersive historical experiences anywhere.

The tours can be chilly year-round (you're essentially underground), so I always bring my merino wool scarf which provides surprising warmth without bulk and packs easily into any daypack. For those interested in photography, note that while photos are restricted in many areas, the exhibition section allows images.

As someone who's undergone aviation medical exams throughout my career, I've developed a fascination with medical history. Edinburgh's Surgeons' Hall Museums houses one of the most significant surgical collections in the world—yet remains curiously absent from most tourist itineraries.

The museum occupies a stunning William Playfair-designed building and contains three distinct collections: the Wohl Pathology Museum, History of Surgery Museum, and Dental Collection. What makes this place extraordinary is its unflinching look at medical evolution. Glass cases display preserved specimens showing various pathologies, pioneering surgical instruments, and artifacts from Edinburgh's renowned medical school.

Particularly fascinating is the section on Burke and Hare, the infamous body-snatchers who supplied cadavers to anatomy professors. You can even see Burke's death mask and a pocket book allegedly made from his skin—a grim reminder of medicine's complex ethical journey.

This isn't for the squeamish, but those with scientific curiosity will find it utterly engrossing. I typically spend three hours here, often using my pocket magnifier to examine intricate details on historical medical instruments that showcase the ingenuity of early surgeons.

Hidden in the Cowgate district stands the Magdalen Chapel, housing Scotland's only complete set of pre-Reformation stained glass windows that survived the zealous destruction of the 1560s. As a pilot who's witnessed countless sunrises through aircraft windows, I've developed an appreciation for light's transformative quality—and these 16th-century windows create a luminous experience unlike any other in Edinburgh.

Built in 1544 as the meeting place for the Hammermen's Guild (metalworkers), this modest chapel played an outsized role in Scottish history. The Protestant reformer John Knox preached here, and the chapel later served as the first meeting place of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland.

What strikes me most is the chapel's authenticity. Unlike heavily restored historical sites, Magdalen Chapel retains its original character, from the worn wooden pews to the hand-painted heraldic panels. The central table reportedly held the body of the Marquis of Montrose after his execution—just one of countless historical moments these walls have witnessed.

For history enthusiasts, I recommend bringing a pocket guidebook as the chapel's volunteer staff, though knowledgeable, aren't always available to answer detailed questions about the remarkable symbolism in the stained glass.

Just steps from the tourist-packed Royal Mile lies one of Edinburgh's best-kept secrets: Dunbar's Close Garden, a meticulously recreated 17th-century formal garden hidden behind an unmarked close (alleyway). After the sensory overload of Edinburgh's main attractions, this geometric garden offers a peaceful retreat that transports visitors back 300 years.

Designed in the style favored by Edinburgh's wealthy residents during the 1600s, the garden features perfectly symmetrical beds of herbs, flowers and shrubs, gravel pathways, and carefully pruned trees. Stone benches invite contemplation, while the high walls block out city noise, creating a pocket of tranquility that feels miles from the bustling High Street just yards away.

During my visits, I've often had this garden entirely to myself, especially in early mornings. It's the perfect spot to enjoy a coffee while planning the day's explorations, or to rest weary feet after hours of sightseeing. The garden's seasonal changes make it worth visiting year-round—from spring tulips to summer roses to autumn foliage.

For capturing the garden's symmetrical beauty, I use my collapsible water bottle to stay hydrated without lugging heavy bottles during long photography sessions. The garden has no facilities, so coming prepared is essential for extended visits.

A short bus ride from central Edinburgh to the historic port of Leith brings you to Trinity House, a Georgian-era maritime museum that combines architectural splendor with fascinating nautical history. As a pilot who navigates by sophisticated instruments, I'm particularly drawn to the evolution of navigation technology displayed here—from astrolabes to sextants to early compasses.

Built in 1555 and remodeled in the 1800s, Trinity House served as headquarters for The Incorporation of Masters and Mariners, essentially a maritime guild that controlled shipping in the Firth of Forth. The elegant rooms house an impressive collection of model ships, navigational instruments, whaling artifacts, and maritime paintings that chronicle Scotland's deep connection to the sea.

Most visitors don't realize that many items here were procured as 'dues' from captains returning from foreign voyages. Each captain was required to bring back something exotic or valuable for the collection, resulting in an eclectic array of international treasures alongside maritime artifacts.

The master's boardroom remains exactly as it was 200 years ago, down to the original furniture where shipping magnates once determined the fate of Scotland's maritime trade. For those interested in naval architecture, I recommend bringing a pocket sketchbook to capture details of the remarkably accurate ship models that showcase the evolution of vessel design across centuries.