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I'll never forget the moment I first glimpsed Graz from the Schlossberg hill. The terracotta rooftops spread out like a patchwork quilt, punctuated by that unmistakable blue dome of the Kunsthaus—looking like some friendly alien spacecraft that had decided to make this charming Austrian city its home. As a career counselor who spends his days helping others navigate life's journeys, I find there's something beautifully metaphorical about Graz itself—a place where centuries-old traditions and cutting-edge design coexist in perfect harmony. Having just spent a gloriously sunny spring weekend exploring Austria's second-largest city with my mate Dave, I'm convinced it might be Europe's most underrated couples' getaway. With its UNESCO World Heritage old town, thriving design scene, and enough quirky vintage shops to make this treasure-hunting Aussie bloke's heart skip a beat, Graz packs an almighty punch for its size. So grab your partner's hand and let me walk you through my perfect 48 hours in this Austrian gem.
Day 1: Morning - Old Town Explorations
There's something magical about setting foot in Graz's Altstadt (Old Town) as the morning light catches the baroque facades and Renaissance courtyards. My mate Dave and I kicked off our Graz adventure with strong coffees at Café Sacher on Herrengasse, where the crisp spring air made their famous chocolate torte taste even better. While the café might be touristy, sometimes the classics are popular for good reason.
After fueling up, we meandered through the medieval streets toward the Hauptplatz (Main Square), where the morning market was in full swing. Local farmers displayed vibrant spring produce while artisans sold handcrafted goods that would make perfect souvenirs. I couldn't resist picking up a handmade leather journal—something about the craftsmanship reminded me of the workshops back in rural Australia.
The heart of Graz reveals itself gradually, like pages in a well-worn novel. The Landhaus courtyard, with its Renaissance arcades, transported us back centuries, while the Glockenspiel clock tower treated us to its charming 11 AM performance featuring wooden dancers twirling to tinkling bells.
For architecture enthusiasts, the double spiral staircase at the Burg complex is an absolute must-see. Dating back to 1499, this marvel of engineering features two intertwining staircases that separate and reunite at each floor—a perfect metaphor for couples traveling together, finding their own paths yet always reconnecting.
Before lunch, we made our way to the Mausoleum of Emperor Ferdinand II, an often-overlooked baroque masterpiece tucked away near the cathedral. The ornate interior left us speechless, and we practically had the place to ourselves—one of those rare travel moments where you feel like you've discovered something special that somehow escaped the guidebooks.

💡 Pro Tips
- Visit the Hauptplatz market before noon for the best selection of local products
- The Glockenspiel performs three times daily at 11 AM, 3 PM, and 6 PM
- Purchase a combined ticket for the Burg complex to save on entrance fees
Day 1: Afternoon - Design & Architecture Wonders
After a leisurely lunch at Aiola Upstairs—where the rooftop terrace offers spectacular views of the city—we dedicated our afternoon to exploring Graz's remarkable design credentials. This city wasn't named UNESCO City of Design on a whim, mates.
Our first stop was the unmissable Kunsthaus Graz, affectionately nicknamed the 'Friendly Alien' by locals. This biomorphic blob of blue acrylic stands in stark contrast to the medieval surroundings, yet somehow doesn't feel out of place. Inside, the contemporary art exhibitions were thought-provoking, but honestly, the building itself is the real masterpiece. I'd recommend bringing a good pocket camera to capture the incredible architectural details both inside and out. My trusty Sony handled the challenging light conditions brilliantly, especially in the exhibition spaces where lighting can be dramatic.
From there, we crossed the River Mur via the futuristic Murinsel (Mur Island), an artificial steel island shaped like a half-opened shell. Designed by American artist Vito Acconci, this floating platform houses a quirky café and amphitheater—perfect for a quick coffee break while watching the river flow beneath your feet.
The real surprise of our afternoon was discovering TAG—Tour Architektur Graz. This self-guided architectural walking tour (grab a map at the tourist office) took us through centuries of design evolution, from Gothic masterpieces to ultra-modern constructions. The Augarten district particularly captivated us with its blend of restored industrial buildings now housing design studios and creative spaces.
As the afternoon light began to soften, we made our way to Lendplatz, where the emerging design district showcases local artisans and independent boutiques. I stumbled upon a vintage shop called Vintage Vibes that nearly made me miss our dinner reservation—the collection of mid-century modern accessories would have made any vintage enthusiast weak at the knees. I left with a perfectly preserved 1960s Austrian ceramic vase that somehow managed to fit in my carry-on.

💡 Pro Tips
- Purchase Kunsthaus tickets online to avoid queues
- Visit the Kunsthaus in late afternoon when the light makes the blue exterior particularly striking
- Download the free Graz Architecture app for self-guided tours
Day 1: Evening - Culinary Delights & Romantic Views
As the sun began its descent over Graz, Dave and I found ourselves drawn to the Schlossberg—the tree-covered hill crowned with the iconic Clock Tower that dominates the city skyline. Rather than taking the funicular or lift, we opted for the zigzagging path that winds its way up the hillside, stopping occasionally to catch our breath and admire the increasingly spectacular views.
Timing is everything here. We arrived about an hour before sunset, which gave us plenty of time to explore the fortress ruins and gardens before settling in for nature's nightly show. The Clock Tower (Uhrturm) is the undisputed symbol of Graz, and watching the evening light play across its face as the city lights began to twinkle below was genuinely romantic—even for two mates just enjoying a weekend away.
For dinner, we'd made reservations at Aiola im Schloss, a restaurant nestled within the Schlossberg complex. The seasonal menu showcased Styrian specialties with modern twists, and we opted for the chef's tasting menu paired with local wines. The standout was their pumpkin seed oil ice cream—a flavor revelation that had me seriously contemplating how to smuggle a few bottles of this liquid gold back to Miami.
After dinner, the gentle spring evening beckoned us to stroll along the illuminated pathways of the Schlossberg. We weren't alone—couples of all ages wandered hand-in-hand, the atmosphere undeniably romantic without feeling contrived. For those looking to capture these magical evening moments, I'd recommend a travel tripod for steady night shots without weighing down your daypack.
We capped off our evening with nightcaps at the stylish rooftop bar of Hotel Wiesler, where the bartender crafted cocktails featuring local spirits and herbs. The Schlossberg Clock Tower remained visible from our perch, now dramatically lit against the night sky—a perfect end to our first day in this enchanting city.

💡 Pro Tips
- Arrive at Schlossberg at least an hour before sunset for the best photography opportunities
- Make dinner reservations in advance for restaurants on the Schlossberg, especially during spring and summer
- The last funicular down from Schlossberg runs at 11 PM, but check current schedules
Day 2: Morning - Vintage Treasure Hunting
If there's one thing that gets me out of bed early on holiday, it's the promise of vintage treasure hunting. Graz delivered in spades with its eclectic mix of antique stores, flea markets, and retro boutiques that would make any vintage enthusiast's heart race.
Our Sunday morning began with a quick breakfast at Tribeka café (their avocado toast with local pumpkin seeds was a revelation) before making our way to the Kaiser-Josef-Markt. While primarily a farmers' market, the surrounding streets transform on weekends with pop-up vintage stalls and antique vendors. I was immediately drawn to a collection of mid-century Austrian ceramics—those distinctive geometric patterns in muted greens and blues that somehow feel both retro and timeless.
Armed with our packable daypack (an absolute godsend for impromptu shopping expeditions), we ventured into the Lend district, where Graz's creative scene has breathed new life into former industrial spaces. The Vintage Vibes shop I'd discovered the previous day was just the beginning—the nearby Brockenhaus offered room after room of carefully curated vintage furniture and homewares.
What struck me most was how Graz's vintage scene differs from what I'm used to in Australia or the States. Here, you'll find incredible examples of Austrian and Italian design from the 50s through 70s that rarely make it across the oceans. The prices, while not exactly bargain-basement, were remarkably fair for the quality and provenance.
The highlight was stumbling upon a tiny shop called Zeitreise (which appropriately translates to 'Time Travel'). The elderly owner, Herr Moser, spoke limited English but was delighted by my enthusiasm for his collection of vintage cameras and scientific instruments. After a bit of friendly haggling—mostly conducted through gestures and smiles—I walked away with a perfectly preserved 1960s Austrian-made light meter in its original leather case, a unique souvenir that now sits proudly on my desk back home in Miami.
For couples, these vintage expeditions offer a wonderful opportunity to discover pieces that tell stories and might eventually become part of your shared history. Whether you're serious collectors or just enjoy the thrill of the hunt, Graz's vintage scene provides the perfect Sunday morning activity—especially when followed by coffee and pastries at one of the charming cafés that dot the Lend district.

💡 Pro Tips
- Bring cash for the smaller vintage shops and market stalls
- Most vintage shops are closed on Sundays, but the weekend markets and some in the Lend district remain open
- Don't be afraid to negotiate prices, especially for larger items
Day 2: Afternoon - Eggenberg Palace & Gardens
After our vintage shopping expedition, we grabbed a quick lunch at the charming Der Steirer restaurant (their Styrian tapas concept is brilliant) before catching tram #1 west toward Schloss Eggenberg. This UNESCO-listed baroque palace sits slightly removed from the city center, which means it sees fewer tourists than you'd expect for a site of such grandeur.
Approaching Eggenberg along its tree-lined avenue, I was immediately struck by its perfect proportions and the way it seemed to emerge from the surrounding parkland like something from a fairytale. The palace was built to reflect the universe—with 365 windows (one for each day), 24 state rooms (one for each hour), and 4 corner towers (representing the seasons). As someone who appreciates thoughtful design, this astronomical and calendrical symbolism throughout the architecture fascinated me.
While the palace interior is certainly worth exploring (the Planetary Room with its elaborate ceiling frescoes is particularly impressive), it was the gardens that truly captured our hearts on this spring afternoon. The formal gardens were bursting with early blooms, while peacocks strutted freely across the manicured lawns, occasionally stopping to fan their spectacular plumage—nature's own design masterpiece.
For couples visiting Graz, I'd recommend bringing a picnic blanket and picking up supplies in town before heading to Eggenberg. The palace grounds are perfect for a romantic picnic, and unlike many European palaces, they actually encourage visitors to relax on the lawns. We found a quiet spot beneath a flowering cherry tree and spent a blissful hour watching the peacocks and soaking in the spring sunshine.
The palace park also houses a charming rose garden (spectacular in late spring), archaeological collection, and planetarium—you could easily spend an entire day exploring the grounds. For those interested in photography, the late afternoon light creates a golden glow on the palace façade that's absolutely magical to capture.
Before leaving, don't miss the palace café housed in the former orangery. Their Kaiserschmarrn (shredded pancake with plum compote) paired with a glass of local white wine made for the perfect afternoon treat as we rested our feet and planned our final evening in Graz.

💡 Pro Tips
- Purchase the combined ticket for access to both the palace interior and museums
- Visit on weekdays to avoid crowds, especially in spring when the gardens are at their most beautiful
- The last tram back to the city center leaves around 11 PM, but check the current schedule
Day 2: Evening - Modern Graz & Farewell Dinner
For our final evening in Graz, we decided to explore the city's contemporary side, starting with a visit to the striking Murinsel as the sun began to set. This artificial island floating on the Mur River transforms from a quirky daytime attraction to a romantically lit installation as evening falls. The blue lighting complements the flowing water below, creating a mesmerizing effect that's perfect for couples looking for unique photo opportunities.
From there, we strolled along the riverside promenade, which has been beautifully revitalized in recent years. The contrast between the medieval buildings on one side and modern architecture on the other perfectly encapsulates what makes Graz special—this seamless blend of old and new, tradition and innovation.
For dinner, we'd secured a reservation at Restaurant Eckstein, a contemporary Austrian restaurant that showcases local ingredients with international flair. The intimate lighting and excellent wine list make it ideal for couples, and their tasting menu with wine pairings offered a perfect culinary conclusion to our Graz adventure. The standout dish was their modern take on traditional Styrian beef with pumpkin and wild herbs—a flavor combination that somehow captured the essence of the region on a single plate.
After dinner, we weren't quite ready to say goodbye to Graz, so we made our way to the rooftop bar at Hotel Wiesler for one last nightcap. Sipping locally distilled gin while gazing out at the illuminated Schlossberg Clock Tower, we reflected on how much we'd managed to experience in just 48 hours.
What struck me most about Graz after dark was the relaxed yet sophisticated atmosphere. Unlike some European cities that become rowdy at night, Graz maintains an elegant, intimate vibe that's perfect for couples. The historic buildings are tastefully illuminated, casting a romantic glow over the cobblestone streets as locals and visitors alike enjoy the mild spring evening.
Before heading back to our hotel, we took one final walk through the Hauptplatz, now peacefully empty except for a few couples strolling hand in hand. The town hall's façade was dramatically lit, creating patterns of light and shadow that danced across the square. I couldn't resist capturing this final Graz moment with my smartphone tripod for a long-exposure shot that's now framed in my Miami apartment—a perfect reminder of this unexpectedly romantic Austrian city.

💡 Pro Tips
- Book Restaurant Eckstein at least a week in advance, especially for weekend dinners
- Many rooftop bars in Graz require reservations in spring and summer
- The last trams and buses typically run until midnight, but taxis are readily available in the city center
Final Thoughts
As our train pulled away from Graz the following morning, I found myself already planning a return visit. There's something about this city that gets under your skin—perhaps it's the seamless blend of historic charm and forward-thinking design, or maybe it's simply the relaxed pace that allows you to truly absorb your surroundings. For couples seeking a European weekend that balances culture, cuisine, and romance without the crowds of more famous destinations, Graz offers a refreshingly authentic alternative. Whether you're hunting for vintage treasures in the Lend district, watching the sunset paint the city golden from Schlossberg hill, or simply enjoying a glass of Styrian wine at a riverside café, Graz invites you to slow down and savor the moment together. And isn't that what travel—like relationships—is truly about? Not rushing from one must-see attraction to the next, but creating space for discovery, connection, and unexpected joy. Until next time, Graz. You've earned a permanent place in this wandering Aussie's heart.
✨ Key Takeaways
- Graz perfectly balances historic charm with cutting-edge design, making it ideal for couples with diverse interests
- Spring visits offer the perfect combination of comfortable weather, blooming gardens, and fewer tourists
- Don't miss the sunset views from Schlossberg hill for the most romantic perspective of the city
- The vintage and design scenes offer unique souvenirs that you won't find in more touristy Austrian destinations
📋 Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April-June) or early autumn (September-October)
Budget Estimate
€200-300 per couple per day including mid-range accommodation, meals and attractions
Recommended Duration
2-3 days is ideal for exploring the city center and major attractions
Difficulty Level
Easy - Compact City Center With Good Public Transportation
Comments
starnomad
Just got back from Graz last week and this itinerary is spot on! Though I'd suggest flipping the order a bit if you're there on weekend - the Lend district was much more lively on Saturday than Sunday when some shops were closed. The Kunsthaus (that blue bubble building) is even wilder in person than photos show. My unexpected highlight was the Armory museum - I'm not usually into weapons/armor but it was incredibly well-preserved and fascinating. Also, don't sleep on the ice cream at Eis-Greissler near the main square - the pumpkin seed oil flavor sounds weird but tastes amazing!
globeguide
Pumpkin seed oil ice cream?? That sounds wild but I'm definitely trying it!
globeguide
Going to Graz next month! Is it easy to get around without a car? And any restaurant recommendations that aren't in the blog post?
starnomad
Super easy to get around! The trams are frequent and there's a great app for tickets. Try Der Steirer for traditional food with a modern twist - their pumpkin risotto changed my life lol
happystar
Seconding Der Steirer! Also bring good walking shoes - I tracked nearly 20k steps each day in Graz. The pocket guide was surprisingly helpful for such a small book.
Frank Carter
Jeremy, this brought back so many memories! I spent a long weekend in Graz last autumn and completely fell for the city. One thing I'd add - don't miss the Farmers Market at Kaiser-Josef-Platz if you're there on a Saturday morning. The local cheeses and pumpkin seed oil are worth bringing home! And I found the contrast between the medieval old town and those bold contemporary buildings absolutely fascinating. Did you get a chance to check out the Murinsel (that weird artificial island in the river)? I spent an hour there just watching the water flow by with an excellent coffee.
starnomad
Frank - how many days would you recommend for Graz? Is 2 days enough or should I add another?
Frank Carter
Honestly, 2 full days hits the highlights nicely, but I stayed 3 and didn't regret it. The extra day let me take a side trip to the Zotter Chocolate Factory which was absolutely worth it if you're into that sort of thing!
happystar
Those terracotta rooftops from Schlossberg are EVERYTHING! Graz has been on my list forever, bookmarking this for next spring!
Taylor Moreau
Jeremy, this brings back wonderful memories of my business trip to Graz last year. I extended my stay specifically to explore the design aspects you've highlighted. One addition I would suggest is the Murinsel - that artificial floating island on the Mur river is quite the architectural marvel, especially when lit up at night. For anyone following this itinerary, I'd recommend booking a table at Aiola Upstairs for dinner - the terrace offers spectacular views over the old town, and their modern take on traditional Styrian cuisine is exceptional. The clocktower viewpoint provides a different perspective than the Schlossberg main plateau - worth the extra climb!
hikinglover
Aiola Upstairs sounds amazing! Is it very expensive? Also, did you find the Murinsel worth visiting in the daytime or is it better at night?
Taylor Moreau
Aiola is mid-range by Austrian standards - a main course runs about €18-25. The Murinsel is interesting anytime, but it truly comes alive after dark when the blue lighting creates a futuristic atmosphere. During the day, you can better appreciate how it connects the two riverbanks.
photoadventurer
Great post! Those terracotta rooftops look stunning in your photos. I'm planning a trip to Austria in July - is Graz worth a detour from Vienna? And how's the public transportation there?
Taylor Moreau
Absolutely worth the detour! It's only about 2.5 hours by train from Vienna. Graz offers a completely different atmosphere - more relaxed and with a fascinating blend of Renaissance and modern architecture. Public transport is excellent - frequent trams and buses, and the old town is very walkable. I'd recommend at least one overnight stay.
photoadventurer
Thanks for the advice! Just booked two nights in July. Any camera gear recommendations for those rooftop views? I'm bringing my travel tripod but wondering about lenses.
Taylor Moreau
A wide-angle lens is perfect for capturing those panoramic views from Schlossberg. The light around sunset creates a magical glow on the terracotta rooftops. Enjoy your trip!
hikinglover
Just got back from Graz last week and this itinerary is spot on! We also started at Schlossberg but took the funicular up instead of the stairs (my knees aren't what they used to be 😅). The Kunsthaus really is as impressive as your photos show. We stumbled upon a small wine bar near Hauptplatz that served amazing local Styrian wines - wish I could remember the name! Did you make it to Eggenberg Palace? We ran out of time but heard it's worth visiting.
Taylor Moreau
The funicular is definitely the smart choice! I visited Eggenberg on my second trip to Graz and would highly recommend it if you return. The gardens alone are worth the visit, especially in late spring.
hikinglover
Thanks Taylor! Adding Eggenberg to my list for next time. The funicular views were amazing too!
Sage Dixon
Jeremy, your post brought back so many memories! I was in Graz last year and completely fell in love with the city. For anyone planning a trip, I'd add that if you're into photography, bring a wide-angle lens for the Kunsthaus - it's challenging to capture that blue bubble in standard frames! I spent an extra day exploring the surrounding countryside and vineyards. The Styrian wine route is incredible if you can spare another day. I used my pocket guide which had some excellent off-the-beaten-path suggestions for the area.
Jeremy Dixon
Thanks Sage! Great tip about the wide-angle lens - that Kunsthaus is such a unique shape. The wine route sounds amazing - I'm definitely planning to explore more of Styria next time I'm there.
winterdiver
Just got back from Graz last month and your itinerary hits all the highlights! That view from Schlossberg is absolutely incredible. We went up at sunset and stayed for the city lights - definitely recommend that timing. One thing I'd add is to try the pumpkin seed oil ice cream at Eis-Greissler near the main square. It sounds weird but it's amazing and so unique to Styria!
winternomad
Pumpkin seed oil ice cream?? That sounds both strange and amazing. Adding it to my list!
Jeremy Dixon
winterdiver - YES to the pumpkin seed oil ice cream! Can't believe I forgot to mention that. It's such a Styrian specialty. And great tip about sunset at Schlossberg. The funicular ride up is worth it too if you don't feel like climbing those steps!
winternomad
Great post! I'm planning to visit Graz this summer. How's the public transportation there? Is it easy to get around without renting a car?
Jeremy Dixon
Thanks winternomad! Public transport in Graz is excellent - I used trams and buses the entire time. The city center is very walkable too. You can get a 24-hour ticket for around €5 which is a great deal. No car needed at all!
winternomad
That's perfect, thanks for the quick reply! Really looking forward to seeing that blue dome of the Kunsthaus in person.