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After nearly three decades managing recreation programs in Minneapolis, I've developed a knack for spotting hidden potential. The same applies to travel—especially in Edinburgh, where the Royal Mile offers far more than the obvious attractions. Having visited Scotland six times in the past decade (my Scandinavian roots give me an affinity for these northern landscapes), I've compiled my favorite overlooked spots along this historic stretch. While tourists queue for Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace, savvy couples can explore these lesser-known treasures that reveal Edinburgh's soul.
The Secret Gardens of Dunbar's Close
Just steps from the bustling Royal Mile lies one of my favorite retreats in all of Edinburgh. Dunbar's Close Garden is a meticulously reconstructed 17th-century formal garden that most tourists walk right past, mistaking its narrow entrance for just another alleyway.
The first time I stumbled upon it, I'd been searching for a quiet spot to rest my feet after a morning of exploration. What I found was a time capsule—immaculately trimmed hedges, gravel pathways, and wooden benches nestled among flowering plants arranged in traditional patterns. The garden follows the same layout wealthy Edinburgh residents would have enjoyed during the time of Charles II.
Last summer, my tennis buddy Mark and his wife joined me for a weekend in Edinburgh. We packed a simple picnic lunch, grabbed a bottle of local gin (Edinburgh has become quite the gin hub), and spent a blissful hour in this hidden oasis while crowds shuffled past just meters away, completely unaware.
💡 Pro Tips
- Visit early morning or late afternoon to have the garden nearly to yourself
- Bring a small picnic and make use of the benches
- Look for seasonal herbs and plants that would have been used in 17th-century cooking
The Real Witches' Well
While tourists flock to the obvious witch-related sites, few notice the small bronze fountain on the esplanade of Edinburgh Castle. This modest memorial marks a dark chapter in Scottish history—the spot commemorates over 300 women burned as witches on Castle Hill.
I first learned about this site from a local historian I met at a pub near my hotel. He explained that the memorial was created in 1894 but the witch trials themselves occurred primarily in the 16th and 17th centuries. The plaque and fountain serve as a sobering reminder of religious hysteria and misogyny.
The site isn't flashy or prominently marked, which is why most visitors walk right past it. But standing there, looking out over the same city views these women would have seen in their final moments, creates a powerful connection to Edinburgh's complex past.
If you're interested in Edinburgh's darker history, I recommend picking up a copy of Edinburgh history book before your trip. It provided me with fascinating context that transformed how I experienced the city's historical sites.
💡 Pro Tips
- Visit early before the castle crowds arrive
- Take time to read the inscription and reflect on this overlooked piece of history
- Look for the serpent-head spout and foxglove design, both connected to accusations of witchcraft
The Writer's Museum & Makars' Court
Tucked away in Lady Stair's Close is a literary treasure that celebrates Scotland's three greatest writers: Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott, and Robert Louis Stevenson. What makes this spot special isn't just the museum itself (though the personal artifacts are fascinating), but the often-overlooked Makars' Court outside.
The flagstones of this courtyard are inscribed with quotations from Scottish writers spanning 600 years. It's like walking across a living anthology of Scottish literature. During my last visit with my son (who's developed quite an interest in street art), we spent nearly an hour just photographing our favorite quotes.
The museum itself is housed in a 1622 building, and while it's free to enter, many tourists miss it entirely. Inside, you'll find Burns' writing desk, Scott's childhood rocking horse, and the ring given to Stevenson by a Samoan chief.
I always carry my pocket notebook to jot down particularly moving quotes I discover. On my last visit, I filled three pages with Scottish wisdom I wanted to remember. If you appreciate literature, this hidden gem offers a profound connection to Scotland's literary soul.
💡 Pro Tips
- Look down as you walk through Makars' Court to discover literary quotes in the flagstones
- The museum is free but consider making a small donation
- Ask the knowledgeable staff about special literary events happening during your stay
The Real Mary King's Close
While not entirely unknown, many visitors still miss the opportunity to explore the Real Mary King's Close, a remarkably preserved 17th-century street now buried beneath the Royal Mile. Unlike other attractions that reconstruct history, this is the genuine article—actual homes and businesses where Edinburgh residents lived and worked.
What makes this site extraordinary is how it illuminates the daily lives of ordinary people rather than royalty or nobility. The narrow close (alleyway) was partially demolished and built over when the Royal Exchange was constructed in the 18th century, effectively preserving this slice of Edinburgh life.
My first visit was on a rainy afternoon in 2018. Our guide, dressed in period costume, shared stories of the plague that devastated the close's residents and the cramped conditions they endured. The most affecting moment came in a small room now filled with dolls and toys—offerings left by visitors after a psychic claimed to have encountered the spirit of a little girl named Annie who died of the plague.
Pro tip: Book your tickets online with the skip-the-line option to avoid disappointment, especially during summer months when wait times can exceed two hours. The tours fill quickly, and having your spot secured means one less thing to worry about.
💡 Pro Tips
- Book the first or last tour of the day for a less crowded experience
- Wear comfortable shoes as the surfaces are uneven and authentic to the period
- Photography is prohibited inside, so be present and absorb the experience
Advocate's Close & Hidden Viewpoints
Edinburgh is a city of levels, where narrow passageways often reveal unexpected views. Advocate's Close, dating from the 15th century, offers one of the Royal Mile's most photogenic vistas, yet many tourists walk right past its entrance.
This steep, narrow close was once home to prominent advocates (Scottish lawyers) and connects the Royal Mile to Cockburn Street below. What makes it special is the perfectly framed view of the Scott Monument and the city beyond. The perspective creates a sense of discovery—a secret Edinburgh revealed only to those curious enough to venture down these ancient pathways.
I've visited Edinburgh in all seasons, but there's something magical about summer evenings here when the light lingers until 10 PM. Last year, my son and I brought along a travel tripod and captured some stunning long-exposure shots of the close at dusk. The contrast between the ancient stonework in the foreground and the Victorian monument in the distance creates a perfect visual representation of Edinburgh's layered history.
After photographing the close, we discovered a tiny whisky bar tucked away at the bottom where we struck up a conversation with a local architect who pointed us toward several other hidden viewpoints nearby. This kind of serendipitous discovery is what makes exploring Edinburgh's closes so rewarding.
💡 Pro Tips
- Visit around sunset for the best lighting and fewer people
- Look for the plaque explaining the close's history
- Continue all the way down to discover businesses and cafes that most tourists never find
Tweeddale Court's Literary Heritage
Tweeddale Court is easy to miss—its entrance on the Royal Mile is narrow and often overshadowed by more prominent attractions. Yet this close holds significant literary history and offers a peaceful retreat from the main thoroughfare's bustle.
The court was once home to Tweeddale House, built in 1576 for the Marquess of Tweeddale. Today, it houses the Scottish Book Trust, continuing the location's literary connections. But what truly fascinates me about this spot is its connection to publishing history—it was once the workplace of William Smellie, who printed the first Encyclopedia Britannica in 1768.
During my research before visiting, I found an excellent Edinburgh literary guide that highlighted this and other literary connections throughout the city. It transformed my appreciation of these seemingly ordinary spaces.
What I love most about Tweeddale Court is how it opens up unexpectedly into a spacious courtyard after the narrow entrance—a physical metaphor for how Edinburgh reveals itself gradually to those willing to explore beyond the obvious. The architectural details here span centuries, from medieval elements to Victorian additions.
In summer, the court sometimes hosts small book events and readings. During my last visit, I stumbled upon a poetry reading that ended up being one of the highlights of my trip.
💡 Pro Tips
- Look for the plaque commemorating the first Encyclopedia Britannica
- Visit on weekdays when the Scottish Book Trust might be hosting public events
- Notice the architectural details spanning different periods of Edinburgh's history
Trunk's Close & Moubray House
Of all Edinburgh's hidden historical gems, Trunk's Close holds a special place in my heart. This narrow passage leads to Moubray House, one of the oldest surviving buildings on the Royal Mile, dating from around 1477. What makes this location extraordinary is that it represents one of the few remaining examples of how the Royal Mile looked before modernization.
The first time I discovered Trunk's Close, I was actually lost—trying to find my way back to the main street after exploring another close. What appeared to be a dead end suddenly revealed this architectural treasure. Moubray House has witnessed nearly 550 years of Scottish history, including the reign of James IV and the tumultuous periods that followed.
During my most recent visit, I brought along my audio guide which provided fascinating details about the building's history that I would have otherwise missed. The audio tour explained how Daniel Defoe, author of Robinson Crusoe, once lived here while working as a British spy before the 1707 Act of Union.
What strikes me about places like Trunk's Close is how they represent Edinburgh's remarkable historical continuity. While most cities have demolished their medieval structures, Edinburgh has incorporated them into its living fabric. Standing in this close, you can almost hear the echoes of centuries past—the merchants, writers, and ordinary citizens who walked these same stones.
💡 Pro Tips
- Look up to see the original timber-framed structure of Moubray House
- Visit early morning when the light creates dramatic shadows on the ancient stonework
- Search for the small plaque mentioning Daniel Defoe's connection to the building
Final Thoughts
Edinburgh's Royal Mile reveals its true character not in the crowded tourist attractions but in these hidden historical gems that most visitors walk past without a second glance. After multiple visits spanning over a decade, I've come to appreciate how these overlooked spaces tell a more authentic story of Edinburgh than the castle ever could.
What makes these hidden spots particularly special for couples is the shared sense of discovery—those 'did you see that?' moments that become cherished memories of your time together. There's something wonderfully intimate about finding a quiet corner of history that feels like it belongs just to you, if only for a moment.
Next time you visit Edinburgh, I encourage you to set aside at least half a day for purposeful wandering. Put away the standard guidebook, look for the narrow openings between buildings, and follow your curiosity down the wynds and closes of the Royal Mile. The real Edinburgh is waiting there, just steps away from the crowds, preserved in stone and story for those willing to seek it out.
And if you happen to spot a salt-and-pepper haired American taking notes in Dunbar's Close Garden or photographing quotes in Makars' Court, stop and say hello—I'm always happy to swap stories about Edinburgh's hidden treasures.
✨ Key Takeaways
- The most authentic historical experiences in Edinburgh are often found in overlooked closes and courtyards just steps from the main tourist path
- Summer evenings offer magical lighting and extended daylight hours for exploring these hidden gems
- Taking time to research literary and historical connections before your visit will significantly enrich your experience
- The best discoveries often happen when you allow yourself to get slightly lost in Edinburgh's medieval street pattern
📋 Practical Information
Best Time to Visit
Summer (June-August) for longest daylight hours, though May and September offer fewer crowds
Budget Estimate
£150-250 per couple for a weekend (excluding accommodation)
Recommended Duration
Allow at least 4-6 hours to properly explore the hidden gems of the Royal Mile
Difficulty Level
Easy To Moderate - Involves Walking On Uneven Cobblestones And Some Steep Inclines
Comments
dreamking
Has anyone been to the Witches' Well mentioned in the article? Is it easy to find?
mountainlegend
It's on the Castle Esplanade, right at the entrance to Edinburgh Castle. Small bronze fountain, easy to miss if you're not looking for it!
dreamking
Thanks! Will keep my eyes peeled when I'm there next week!
Frank Garcia
Great post Casey! I've been to Edinburgh 5 times and only discovered Mary King's Close on my third visit. The guided tour there is absolutely worth the money - our guide was in period costume and stayed in character the entire time, making the history come alive. The Writer's Museum is also a gem, especially if you're into Scott, Burns or Stevenson. One addition I'd suggest is White Horse Close off the Canongate - it's a picturesque 17th-century courtyard that most tourists walk right past. I used my pocket guide to find these spots, which has a great section on hidden corners of the Old Town.
explorelife5857
White Horse Close looks amazing in photos! Adding it to my list for next month.
Frank Garcia
You won't regret it! Try to go early morning when the light hits it just right.
mountainlegend
Finally someone talking about Dunbar's Close! Such a peaceful escape from the tourist madness.
dreamking
Right?? I stumbled on it by accident last year and it was the highlight of my day!
mountainlegend
Same! I had a coffee there and just watched the world go by. Pure magic.
family_traveler_2023
Would these hidden spots be suitable for kids (ages 8 and 10)? Planning our trip for October half-term.
scottish_wanderer
My kids loved Mary King's Close - it's a bit spooky but not scary. The gardens are great for a break from sightseeing. Just be aware some of the closes have steep steps!
family_traveler_2023
Thanks so much! Will definitely include these in our itinerary then.
scottish_wanderer
Great list! As an Edinburgh local, I'd also recommend checking out Trunk's Close and White Horse Close - both just off the Royal Mile and virtually tourist-free. The Witches' Well is particularly moving when you understand the historical context.
Jean Wells
Casey, your perspective as someone who managed recreation programs really shines through in how you've uncovered these hidden spaces. I visited Edinburgh last autumn and discovered The Writer's Museum quite by accident while sheltering from rain. The Makars' Court outside is particularly poignant with those literary quotations embedded in the flagstones. I'd add one more hidden gem to your list: Advocate's Close, which offers one of the most photogenic views of the city. I documented the entire Royal Mile systematically using pocket guidebook which helped me find several closes I would have otherwise missed.
explorebuddy
Jean, is Advocate's Close easy to find? And is the Writer's Museum free to enter?
Jean Wells
Advocate's Close is just off the High Street section of the Royal Mile, near St Giles Cathedral. Very easy to find! And yes, the Writer's Museum is completely free - a rare treat in Edinburgh!
explorebuddy
These hidden spots are exactly what I'm looking for! Going to Edinburgh next month and definitely saving this list. The Secret Gardens of Dunbar's Close sounds magical!
Jean Wells
Make sure you visit Dunbar's Close early in the morning. It's much quieter then, and the light is perfect for photos. I spent an hour there just sketching and watching locals pass through on their morning routines.
explorebuddy
Thanks for the tip! Did you visit The Real Mary King's Close too? Worth the ticket price?
Jean Wells
Absolutely worth it. The guided tour reveals fascinating details about daily life in 17th century Edinburgh. Book online in advance though - the queues can be long even in shoulder season.
backpackqueen
Just got back from Edinburgh and used this guide - thank you so much! The Real Mary King's Close was incredible, totally worth the admission price. I also loved how peaceful Dunbar's Close Garden was compared to the busy Royal Mile. Perfect spot to recharge before more sightseeing!
Stephanie Romano
Casey, thank you for highlighting these hidden gems! We just returned from Edinburgh with our family, and your post would have been so helpful before our trip. We did stumble upon Makars' Court by accident and it became one of our favorite spots. My kids loved reading the quotes on the flagstones! We missed Dunbar's Close Garden though - what a shame. One tip for families visiting the Royal Mile with kids: there's a fantastic little ice cream shop called Mary's Milk Bar just off the Royal Mile toward Grassmarket. Perfect treat after exploring all these historical sites! Also, The People's Story Museum is another lesser-known spot that our kids surprisingly enjoyed - it shows how ordinary Edinburgh residents lived throughout history.
luckygal
Love these suggestions! I'm a huge history buff but traveling with kids (10 and 12). Which of these hidden spots would be most engaging for them? They get bored with traditional museums pretty quickly.
Casey Perry
The Real Mary King's Close is perfect for kids that age! The guides tell spooky stories about plague doctors and ghosts that kids love, but it's educational too. The narrow passageways feel like an adventure. Just book ahead as it sells out quickly!
luckygal
That sounds perfect! Will definitely book that one, thanks Casey!
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