Drink Like a Local: Insider's Guide to Karlovy Vary's Thermal Springs and Cafés

Let me be straight with you—these aren't your typical refreshing mountain springs. Karlovy Vary's thermal waters are medicinal, mineral-heavy, and frankly, an acquired taste. The town boasts 12 main springs, each with different mineral compositions and temperatures ranging from a warm 30°C to a scalding 72°C. Each spring has its own purported healing properties for various ailments from digestive issues to metabolic disorders.

My first morning here, I watched as locals and visitors alike lined up at Mill Colonnade, the largest and most impressive of the town's colonnades housing five different springs. An elderly Czech gentleman noticed my confused expression and, in broken English, explained the proper drinking ritual: small sips, taken slowly, moving from lower mineral content to higher.

Before you arrive, I highly recommend picking up a traditional spa cup called a pohárek. These porcelain cups with a built-in drinking spout are the traditional way to sample the waters. While you can rent them at several spots around town, I prefer having my own. I found a beautiful ceramic travel cup works perfectly as a modern alternative that I can use both for the thermal waters and for coffee later in the day.

What surprised me most was watching how the ritual of taking the waters becomes a meditative practice. Now when I visit, I arrive early at Market Colonnade, find a quiet spot on one of the benches, and spend 15-20 minutes sipping slowly while practicing mindful breathing. It's become my version of morning meditation—connecting with a tradition centuries old while grounding myself in the present moment.

If there's one souvenir you absolutely must bring home from Karlovy Vary, it's a traditional spa cup (pohárek). These porcelain vessels with their distinctive spout handle aren't just functional—they're beautiful pieces of Czech craftsmanship and the key to properly experiencing the town's thermal springs.

My first visit, I made the rookie mistake of buying the first cup I saw at a tourist shop near the bus station. Big mistake. While functional, it lacked the charm and quality of the cups I later discovered in the town's specialty ceramic shops. Now I have a small collection that reminds me of each visit.

The best place to find authentic cups is at Thun 1794, the official shop of the porcelain factory that's been crafting these cups for centuries. Located on Stará Louka street, they offer everything from simple white cups (starting around 350 CZK/$15 USD) to ornately decorated collector's pieces that can cost ten times as much.

For something truly special, I recommend visiting Moser Glass on Tržiště Street. While primarily known for their exquisite glasswork, they occasionally collaborate with porcelain makers to create limited edition spa cups that blend traditional functionality with contemporary design. On my last visit, I splurged on one of these pieces as a birthday gift for Amara—a reminder of our first healing journey here together.

If you're traveling with your partner and want something more practical for daily use back home, consider picking up a pair of insulated travel mugs before your trip. While not traditional, they're perfect for couples who want to bring home thermal water (many locals fill bottles to take home) or for enjoying the town's excellent coffee while wandering the riverside promenade together.

While the thermal springs might be Karlovy Vary's claim to fame, the town's café culture deserves equal billing. After your morning spring ritual, there's nothing better than settling into one of the town's historic cafés for a proper Czech breakfast and coffee.

Grandhotel Pupp's café might be the most famous (thanks to its cameo in the James Bond film Casino Royale), but my heart belongs to Café Elephant on the main promenade. With its art nouveau interior largely unchanged since the early 1900s, it feels like stepping into a time capsule. Their apple strudel paired with a rich Czech coffee is my standard order—the perfect balance of sweet and bitter after the mineral taste of the springs.

For something more contemporary, Café Republica near the Market Colonnade has become my afternoon workspace when traveling solo. Their baristas take coffee seriously, and the window seats offer prime people-watching opportunities. I've spent many productive hours here planning wedding itineraries while watching the parade of visitors with their colorful spa cups.

The most authentic local experience, however, is found at Café Mozart. This unassuming spot tucked away on a side street is where you'll find actual residents rather than tourists. The first time I wandered in, I was the only non-Czech speaker, but the owner—a woman who reminded me of my late grandmother—took me under her wing. She introduced me to medovník, a layered honey cake that's become my daughter's favorite treat whenever we visit together.

For those chilly fall mornings when the mist hangs over the river, I always pack my travel French press. There's something magical about making your own coffee and finding a quiet bench along the Teplá River to watch the town wake up. It's become my morning ritual before heading to the springs—a quiet moment of reflection that sets the tone for the day.

After numerous visits to Karlovy Vary, I've perfected what I call the 'Locals' Route'—a meandering path that takes you through the town's best springs and cafés while avoiding the worst of the tourist crowds. This is the itinerary I share with couples looking for a romantic yet authentic experience.

6:30 AM - Early Morning Spring Walk Start at Hot Spring Colonnade to see Vřídlo, the most powerful geyser that shoots water 12 meters high. The steam creates an almost mystical atmosphere in the morning light. This is my meditative moment—I find a quiet corner and spend 15 minutes just breathing and setting intentions for the day.

7:30 AM - Market Colonnade Circuit Head to the beautiful wooden Market Colonnade to sample springs #3 and #4. By now, you'll see locals filling larger bottles to take home—a practice that dates back centuries.

8:30 AM - Breakfast at Café Elephant After your spring ritual, treat yourself to a proper Czech breakfast. Their eggs with Prague ham and fresh bread make for a hearty start, especially after the mineral waters have stimulated your appetite.

10:00 AM - Mill Colonnade Stroll The grandest of all colonnades houses five springs. Take your time here, sipping from each while admiring the neo-classical architecture and ceiling frescoes depicting allegorical scenes.

12:00 PM - Lunch at Restaurace Sklípek This traditional Czech restaurant serves authentic local cuisine in a cozy cellar setting. Their wild game dishes are particularly outstanding in fall.

2:00 PM - Diana Tower Hike Work off lunch with a gentle hike up to Diana Lookout Tower. You can take the funicular if you prefer, but the forest path is beautiful in autumn with mushrooms sprouting along the trail. The view from the top reveals the town nestled in its valley, with fall colors creating a patchwork across the surrounding hills.

4:30 PM - Afternoon Coffee at Café Republica After descending, rest your feet at this modern café. Their specialty coffees are perfect for warming up after your hike. I always bring my travel journal to jot down observations and memories while the experience is fresh.

6:00 PM - Evening Springs at Castle Colonnade As the day tourists leave, locals return for an evening sip. The Castle Colonnade, set higher on the hill, offers a peaceful setting and beautiful views of the town lighting up for evening.

7:30 PM - Dinner at Promenáda End your day with a romantic dinner at this riverside restaurant. Request a window table for views of the illuminated colonnades reflected in the river—the perfect backdrop for couples to discuss their favorite discoveries of the day.

While drinking the waters is the traditional healing practice in Karlovy Vary, immersing yourself in them offers an entirely different level of relaxation. For couples seeking a romantic wellness experience, the town's historic spas provide treatments that have changed little over centuries.

My personal favorite is Elizabeth Baths (Alžbětiny Lázně), the largest spa complex in town. Built in 1906, its art nouveau architecture houses over 60 different treatment options. The first time I visited was actually to research honeymoon options for a client's wedding in Prague, but I've returned multiple times for my own wellbeing.

For the full experience, I recommend booking the 'Traditional Karlovy Vary Spa Package.' It starts with a mineral bath in thermal water piped directly from the springs, followed by a massage using locally-produced peat, and finishes with a rest period wrapped in warm linens while sipping spring water. The entire ritual takes about 2.5 hours and leaves you feeling both energized and deeply relaxed.

Couples should consider the private suite options at Castle Spa (Zámecké Lázně), where you can book a two-hour private thermal pool session complete with champagne service. It's pricey (around 3000 CZK/$130 USD for two people), but the historic setting with its vaulted ceilings and the privacy afforded make it worth every crown for a special occasion.

Before any spa visit, I always pack my quick-dry travel towel. While the spas provide towels, having your own ultra-absorbent option for afterward is a comfort I've come to appreciate, especially when you want to continue exploring the town rather than returning to your hotel immediately.

One insider tip: most spas offer significant discounts for treatments booked for morning slots (before 11am). Since many visitors prefer afternoon appointments after their morning spring-drinking ritual, you can often save 20-30% by booking the first appointment of the day. As a bonus, the facilities are quietest then, enhancing the sense of stepping back in time to the golden age of European spa culture.