Wildlife and Adventure: Top Outdoor Experiences in and around Nairobi

There's something properly surreal about spotting a giraffe silhouetted against Nairobi's skyline. The world's only national park within a capital city boundary sits just 7 kilometers from the city center, making it an absolute must for families with limited time.

On our first morning, we were up before the larks, reminiscent of those early bus route starts in Yorkshire, though considerably more exciting. Our guide Francis collected us from the Hemingways Nairobi hotel in a custom safari vehicle at 6:00 AM sharp. 'Early bird catches the lion,' he winked, and he wasn't wrong.

By 6:45, we were watching a pride of lions lounging in the golden morning light, the cubs tumbling about while mama lion kept a watchful eye. My daughter Sarah, the family photographer, couldn't stop clicking away on her telephoto lens, capturing shots that would make National Geographic proud.

The park may be compact by African standards at 117 square kilometers, but it packs a wildlife punch. We spotted four of the Big Five (only the elephant was missing), including a magnificent black rhino browsing in the acacia thickets. Francis explained that the park hosts one of Kenya's most successful rhino sanctuaries—a far cry from the urban wildlife of Wichita, which consists mainly of squirrels raiding my bird feeder.

By midday, we'd seen zebras, buffalo, giraffes, ostriches, and more gazelles than I could count. The backdrop of skyscrapers behind these wild creatures creates a juxtaposition that never gets old, no matter how many times I visit.

If there's one experience that consistently leaves visitors gobsmacked, it's feeding the Rothschild's giraffes at the Giraffe Centre in Langata, about 5 kilometers from central Nairobi.

My son James, normally the cool cucumber of the family, was rendered speechless when a 16-foot giraffe named Daisy bent down from the elevated feeding platform and delicately took a pellet from his outstretched palm. The gentle sensation of a giraffe's rough tongue—rather like wet sandpaper, I'd say—is something you don't quickly forget.

'It's nothing like feeding the sheep at Meanwood Valley Farm back home,' I chuckled, remembering our weekend outings when the kids were small.

The centre was established in 1979 to protect the endangered Rothschild's giraffe, and today it combines conservation with education. The staff are passionate about their long-necked charges and happily share fascinating giraffe facts while you feed them. Did you know a giraffe's spots are like human fingerprints, with no two patterns exactly alike?

For families, this place is pure gold. The feeding platform puts you at eye level with these magnificent creatures, allowing for incredible close encounters and photographs. My daughter-in-law captured some brilliant shots with her smartphone gimbal, keeping the video smooth even when Daisy surprised her with an unexpected approach.

The centre also features an excellent nature trail through the adjacent Gogo River Bird Sanctuary—a peaceful 1.5-kilometer walk where we spotted numerous bird species and even a couple of warthogs rooting about in the underbrush.

There wasn't a dry eye among us during our visit to the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, commonly known as the elephant orphanage. Located in Nairobi National Park, this remarkable sanctuary rescues baby elephants orphaned by poaching or human-wildlife conflict.

We arrived for the 11 AM public viewing session, when the elephant calves come trotting out from the bush for their milk bottles and mud bath. Each orphan has a heart-wrenching story, recounted by their dedicated keepers who stay with them 24/7, even sleeping in their stables at night.

'Reminds me of those night shifts I used to pull on the Leeds-Harrogate route,' I remarked to my son, 'though I never had to bottle-feed the passengers.'

Watching these baby elephants—some barely reaching my waist—playfully splash in mud puddles and nudge their keepers for extra milk bottles is both entertaining and deeply moving. The trust's conservation work is extraordinary, with over 150 orphans successfully reintegrated into wild herds in Tsavo National Park.

My youngest daughter Emily, always the sentimental one, immediately adopted an elephant named Nabulu through the trust's fostering program. For about £50 annually, she receives updates on Nabulu's progress and the knowledge she's contributing to this vital conservation work.

I'd recommend bringing a compact binoculars to observe the elephants' behaviors up close. The keepers point out fascinating details about elephant social structures and communication that are easier to appreciate when you can see their expressive eyes and subtle trunk movements clearly.

After several days of wildlife encounters, we were ready for some active adventure. Karura Forest, a 1,000-hectare urban forest reserve in the heart of Nairobi, provided the perfect opportunity to stretch our legs.

I'd visited this magnificent forest on previous trips but experiencing it with my adult children added a new dimension. We hired mountain bikes from the main entrance—a far cry from my old Raleigh Chopper from 1970s Leeds—and set off on the well-maintained trails.

The forest is a testament to the power of conservation activism. When the legendary Nobel Peace Prize winner Wangari Maathai fought to protect it from development in the 1990s, she couldn't have imagined what a treasure it would become for Nairobi residents and visitors alike.

Our 12-kilometer cycling route took us through indigenous forest, past cascading waterfalls, and alongside the Karura River. The highlight was the 15-meter waterfall where we paused for a picnic lunch prepared by our hotel. Sitting on moss-covered rocks while kingfishers darted above the pool below felt worlds away from the bustling city just beyond the forest boundary.

The caves along the trail hold fascinating history—they served as hideouts for Mau Mau freedom fighters during Kenya's struggle for independence. Our guide, Joseph, shared stories passed down from his grandfather who had supplied food to the fighters, bringing Kenya's history vividly to life.

For those with less cycling experience, I'd recommend wearing proper padded cycling shorts under your trousers. My son James learned this lesson the hard way and spent the evening walking like John Wayne after a long cattle drive!

Not all outdoor adventures involve wildlife or wilderness. The open-air Maasai Market, which rotates locations throughout Nairobi during the week, offers a different kind of safari—one through Kenya's rich artistic heritage.

We visited on Saturday at the High Court parking area, where hundreds of vendors create a vibrant tapestry of color selling traditional crafts, jewelry, fabrics, and art. The sensory experience is overwhelming—the rainbow of fabrics, the scent of leather and wood, the musical chatter of bargaining in multiple languages.

'It makes Leeds Market look positively monochrome,' I remarked to my daughter, who was already deep in negotiations for a beaded necklace.

Shopping here is as much about the experience as the souvenirs. Haggling is expected—I've learned to start at about 40% of the initial asking price and work up from there. The vendors are skilled negotiators, but always with good humor. I've found that learning a few Swahili phrases goes a long way: 'Jambo' (hello), 'Asante' (thank you), and 'Bei gani?' (how much?) will earn you smiles and possibly better prices.

My most treasured purchase was a hand-carved chess set with pieces representing Maasai warriors and wildlife. The craftsman, Daniel, explained that it took him three weeks to complete. Watching him demonstrate his carving technique on a new piece, I gained appreciation for the skill behind these 'tourist souvenirs.'

After shopping, we refueled at a nearby food stall with samosas and sweet chai tea served in metal cups—simple fare but utterly delicious. I always carry a compact travel wallet that keeps my shillings organized and secure while navigating busy markets like this.

As a chap who's spent decades appreciating Yorkshire puddings and Kansas barbecue, discovering Nairobi's food markets was like finding a whole new world of flavors. While not traditionally considered an 'outdoor adventure,' exploring these markets offers cultural immersion that rivals any wildlife encounter.

K'Osewe Ranalo Foods in the city center became our family favorite. Sitting in their outdoor garden section, we feasted on nyama choma (grilled meat), sukuma wiki (collard greens), and ugali (maize porridge)—all eaten traditionally with our right hands. My son-in-law, who usually insists on cutlery even for pizza, surprised us by diving in with gusto.

'It's like Sunday roast back home,' I joked, 'except everything's got a proper kick to it!'

For a more market-style experience, we visited Toi Market in the Kibera area with a local guide. Here, amid stalls selling everything imaginable, we discovered food vendors preparing fresh mandazi (Kenyan doughnuts) and kashata (coconut peanut brittle) that transported me straight back to childhood visits to Scarborough fairgrounds.

The crown jewel of our culinary adventures was the Urban Street Food Night Market at the Alchemist Bar in Westlands, held on the last Saturday of the month. Under string lights in the open-air venue, dozens of food stalls serve everything from traditional Kenyan dishes to fusion creations. Live music and art installations create a festival atmosphere that captivated even my typically restaurant-conservative family.

I've found that food markets provide the perfect counterbalance to wildlife adventures—after all, man cannot live on safari drives alone! I always carry digestive enzymes when trying new cuisines; they've saved me from discomfort more than once while allowing me to sample everything that catches my eye.