Hiking Wellington's Coast: 5 Breathtaking Trails with Ocean Views

My Wellington coastal adventure began at Red Rocks Reserve (Te Kopahou), a windswept stretch of shoreline that feels worlds away from the city despite being just a 30-minute drive from the CBD. The trail starts at the Owhiro Bay car park, where I shouldered my trusty daypack and set off along the gravel road that hugs the coastline.

What makes this trail special isn't just the distinctive rust-colored rocks that give the reserve its name (formed from ancient pillow lava approximately 200 million years ago), but the remarkable wildlife encounters. Between May and October, you're likely to spot New Zealand fur seals lounging on the rocks—I counted seven during my spring visit, including a particularly large male who seemed thoroughly unimpressed by my photography attempts.

The 7km return journey takes you past the historic Sinclair Head/Te Rimurapa, where Māori once maintained a lookout point. Walking this trail, you experience the raw power of the Cook Strait, with its unpredictable weather and churning waters that have claimed numerous ships over the centuries. The remains of the SS Yung Pen shipwreck are still visible at low tide, a haunting reminder of the ocean's force.

What struck me as particularly interesting was how this coastal ecosystem has been managed. Conservation efforts have successfully balanced public access with habitat protection, a delicate dance that reminds me of similar challenges we face in urban planning. The trail itself is relatively flat and wide—perfect for intermediate hikers who want dramatic scenery without punishing elevation gains.

If you're seeking that perfect Instagram moment combined with a proper leg workout, the Escarpment Track between Paekakariki and Pukerua Bay is your answer. Located about 45 minutes north of Wellington by train, this 10km one-way trail has earned its nickname 'Stairway to Heaven' for good reason—you'll climb roughly 220 meters via numerous staircases cut into the hillside.

I set out early one misty spring morning, catching the first train from Wellington to Paekakariki (a wonderfully scenic journey in itself). The trail begins innocuously enough, winding through coastal scrubland before climbing steeply up the escarpment. What followed was a ridge-top adventure that had me alternating between gasping at the views and simply gasping for breath.

The trail features two swing bridges that sway disconcertingly in Wellington's ever-present winds. Crossing them with my moderate fear of heights was a personal triumph—though I confess to a white-knuckle grip on the railings. The payoff, however, is immense: panoramic views of Kapiti Island to the west and the Tasman Sea stretching endlessly toward Australia.

As an urban planner, I was fascinated by how the trail interacts with the main trunk railway line and State Highway 1 below—three transportation corridors stacked vertically in this narrow space between hills and sea. It's a brilliant example of making the most of limited coastal terrain.

My hiking poles proved invaluable on the steep sections, particularly during descent. Though I consider myself reasonably fit, my legs were certainly feeling the burn by the time I reached Pukerua Bay. From there, I caught the train back to Wellington, pleasantly exhausted and with a camera roll full of spectacular coastal vistas.

For those seeking solitude and raw, untamed coastline, the Makara Beach Walkway delivers in spades. Located on Wellington's remote western edge, this 6km loop track offers a perfect half-day adventure that showcases the region's military history alongside its natural splendor.

I arrived at Makara Beach after a winding 30-minute drive from Wellington's center. The small fishing village has a distinctly end-of-the-road feel—the perfect launching point for a wilderness experience. The trail begins with a steady climb up from the beach, quickly gaining elevation as it ascends the headland.

What makes this trail particularly fascinating is the juxtaposition of natural and historical elements. The path takes you past World War II gun emplacements that once guarded Wellington Harbor from potential invasion. Standing in these concrete remnants while gazing out at the wild Tasman Sea creates an eerie connection to the past—I couldn't help but imagine the soldiers stationed here, scanning these same horizons for enemy ships.

The exposed ridgeline section delivers the hike's signature experience: uninterrupted views across Cook Strait toward the South Island on clear days, with the wind typically blowing strong enough to nearly push you sideways. I found myself leaning into the gale at certain points, laughing at the sheer force of Wellington's famous winds.

Birdlife abounds here—I spotted several species including the distinctive white-fronted tern diving for fish. The descent back to Makara Beach offers a different perspective, winding through farmland where sheep graze seemingly oblivious to the spectacular ocean views.

After completing the loop, I treated myself to a packed lunch on the beach, watching local fishermen cast lines into the surf. My lightweight insulated jacket proved perfect for the rapidly changing conditions—warm enough when the wind picked up but not too hot during the uphill sections.

This trail perfectly embodies Wellington's character: historically significant, naturally dramatic, and always, always windy.

The eastern harbor entrance of Wellington offers a completely different coastal experience from the wild west coast. The Pencarrow Coast Trail follows a relatively flat 8km service road from Eastbourne to New Zealand's first lighthouse at Pencarrow Head, making it one of the more accessible coastal walks in the region.

I began my journey by catching the East by West ferry from downtown Wellington to Days Bay, then rented a bike from the local shop to reach the trailhead at Burden's Gate. While you can walk the entire way, cycling the first portion saved valuable time (and energy).

What makes this trail special is its historical significance combined with unique ecological features. The path skirts two freshwater lakes—Kohangapiripiri and Kohangatera—that sit just meters from the saltwater harbor, separated only by a narrow gravel bar. As an urban planner, I found this natural feature fascinating—a perfect example of how coastal landscapes evolve and adapt.

The star attraction is undoubtedly the Pencarrow Lighthouse itself, New Zealand's first permanent lighthouse established in 1859. What makes its story particularly compelling is that the first lighthouse keeper was Mary Jane Bennett, a woman who took over the role after her husband drowned. Standing beside this historic structure, imagining Mary tending the light through wild Wellington storms while raising her children in isolation, I felt a profound connection to the resilience of those who came before us.

The return journey offers spectacular views across Wellington Harbor toward the city skyline—a reminder of how relatively small human settlements appear against the vastness of land and sea. I was fortunate to visit on a clear spring day when the famous Wellington winds were relatively calm, allowing for perfect photography conditions.

My polarized sunglasses proved essential here, cutting the glare from both sea and sky while enhancing the vivid colors of the landscape. The combination of historical significance, ecological diversity, and stunning harbor views makes this trail a must-do for any visitor to Wellington.

What if you could experience both Wellington's urban charm and its wild coastline in a single hike? The Southern Walkway delivers precisely this compelling contrast, connecting the city center to the rugged south coast in a 10km point-to-point journey that showcases Wellington's remarkable geographic diversity.

I began my adventure at Oriental Bay, Wellington's inner-city beach, where locals were enjoying their morning coffees along the promenade. The trail climbs steadily through the historic residential neighborhoods of Mt Victoria, where charming wooden villas cling to impossibly steep streets—a distinctly Wellington architectural adaptation.

Reaching the Mt Victoria Lookout provides the hike's first reward: a 360-degree panorama of the city, harbor, and surrounding mountains. As an urban planner, I was struck by how clearly you can read Wellington's development patterns from this vantage point—the city's growth constrained and shaped by its dramatic topography.

Continuing south, the trail traverses the Town Belt, a green corridor that has protected Wellington from urban sprawl since the city's founding. This forward-thinking 19th-century planning decision has given modern Wellington residents access to nature within minutes of the central business district—something many cities worldwide now strive to create.

The middle section of the walkway passes through regenerating native bush, where I spotted tui birds feeding on flax flowers and heard the distinctive call of the bellbird. The gradual transition from urban to natural environments is seamless and beautifully managed.

As the trail approaches Island Bay, coastal views begin to dominate. The final descent to the south coast offers spectacular vistas across Cook Strait toward the South Island, with Taputeranga Marine Reserve's protected waters directly offshore.

I finished my journey at Island Bay, where the local fish and chip shop provided a well-earned reward. From here, regular buses return to the city center, making this a logistically simple one-way hike.

My trail running shoes were the perfect footwear choice for this varied terrain—grippy enough for the occasional muddy section but comfortable on the paved portions as well. The Southern Walkway perfectly encapsulates Wellington's unique charm: a capital city where wilderness is never more than a short walk away.