Capturing Authentic Africa: A Photographer's Journey Through Kenema, Sierra Leone

Kenema's central market pulses with an energy that's simultaneously chaotic and perfectly orchestrated. Vendors arrange pyramids of mangoes and cassava alongside handcrafted baskets, while conversations in Krio and Mende create a linguistic tapestry as colorful as the textiles for sale. But photographing here requires more than technical skill—it demands cultural sensitivity.

My approach evolved quickly after my first day. I learned to establish rapport first, camera second. My standard practice became wandering the market empty-handed initially, purchasing fruits or small crafts, exchanging greetings, and only then mentioning my interest in photography. This patient approach yielded not just consent but genuine connections.

One fruit vendor, Aminata, initially shied away from my lens but later invited me to photograph her stall after we bonded over my stories of Filipino market traditions from my mother's homeland. Her proud smile as she displayed her perfectly arranged pineapples became one of my favorite captures—authentic because it emerged from mutual respect rather than a transactional 'point-and-shoot' encounter.

When documenting markets, my camera harness proved invaluable, keeping my equipment secure yet accessible while leaving my hands free for greetings and purchases. Its cross-body design drew far less attention than a traditional camera strap, helping me blend in more effectively.

My veterinary background has always informed my travel photography, but never more profoundly than in Sierra Leone's eastern region. The forests surrounding Kenema represent critical habitat corridors for endangered primates, including the vulnerable Diana monkey and western chimpanzee. Documenting these areas required specialized knowledge, patience, and ethical considerations.

After connecting with local conservation group Tacugama, I spent three days accompanying their field researchers through forest transects. Rising at 4:30 AM, we'd venture into the misty forest edges where human settlements meet wilderness—zones of both conflict and coexistence. My telephoto lens proved essential for maintaining appropriate distance from wildlife while still capturing intimate behavioral moments.

The most challenging yet rewarding photography came during a community conservation meeting where former hunters now employed as eco-guides discussed sustainable forest management. The interplay of skepticism, hope, and determination on their faces told a complex story about conservation's human dimensions. Shooting in the dimly-lit community hall tested my low-light photography skills, but the portable LED light provided just enough supplemental illumination without disrupting the natural atmosphere.

Perhaps my most treasured image from this segment captures a former hunter gently pointing out a camouflaged tree hyrax to a group of schoolchildren—embodying the transition from exploitation to stewardship that represents Sierra Leone's conservation future.

Sierra Leone's recent history bears the deep scars of civil war (1991-2002) and the 2014-2016 Ebola outbreak. In Kenema, which experienced both traumas intensely, photography becomes a delicate balancing act between documenting resilience and avoiding exploitation of suffering.

I approached this challenge by seeking community-led storytelling opportunities. Through connections at my guesthouse, I met Ibrahim, a motorcycle taxi driver who survived the war as a child and later worked as an Ebola response driver. Rather than photographing obvious symbols of hardship, I accompanied Ibrahim for two days as he navigated his daily routine—capturing moments that illustrated recovery and forward momentum.

The technical challenges were substantial. Riding on the back of Ibrahim's motorcycle while shooting required both specialized equipment and technique. My camera stabilization strap proved invaluable, while the weatherproof camera cover protected my equipment during sudden tropical downpours.

Perhaps the most powerful images emerged when we visited Ibrahim's sister's small tailoring business, established with a microloan after the Ebola crisis. The pride in her eyes as she demonstrated her sewing machine to neighborhood children transcended the simplified narratives of victimhood often imposed on Sierra Leoneans by outside media. These were stories of resilience, entrepreneurship, and community—narratives that deserved thoughtful visual documentation.

Photographing in Kenema presents unique technical challenges that demand specialized equipment and adaptability. The region's dramatic contrast between harsh midday sun and deeply shadowed interiors tests even experienced photographers, while dust, humidity, and limited electricity access add further complications.

My daily photography kit evolved significantly after my first few days. I abandoned my standard camera backpack for a more practical waterproof camera bag that better protected against sudden downpours while providing easier access in crowded settings. The bag's multiple access points meant I could retrieve equipment without displaying all my gear—an important security consideration.

Kenema's intense contrasts between bright sunlight and deep shadow required technical solutions. I relied heavily on my polarizing filter to manage glare and enhance colors, particularly when photographing the vibrant textiles at the market or the lush forest landscapes. For indoor settings like community meetings or homes, I found my reflector disc indispensable for softening shadows without intrusive artificial lighting.

Power management became a daily puzzle. With electricity unreliable even in Kenema town, I carried multiple camera batteries and a solar power bank that could recharge both my camera batteries and phone during daylight hours. This setup freed me from dependence on grid electricity and extended my shooting capabilities into remote areas.