Off the Beaten Path: Solo Traveler's Guide to Authentic Kenema, Sierra Leone

Much like the contested lands I've represented in environmental cases back home, Kenema's history is deeply intertwined with its natural resources. The city rose to prominence as the center of Sierra Leone's diamond industry in the mid-20th century, creating wealth that attracted migrants from across West Africa. Yet these same precious stones later fueled the brutal civil war (1991-2002) that devastated the country.

Walking Kenema's streets today, you'll find a city rebuilding itself with remarkable determination. The war's physical scars are fading, though certain buildings still bear the pockmarks of conflict. More recently, the region faced another challenge when it became an epicenter of the 2014 Ebola outbreak. Yet through each hardship, Kenema's residents have displayed a resilience that's nothing short of inspiring.

To truly appreciate this context, I recommend spending your first day with a local guide. Mohammed, who I met through the Sierra Leone Tourist Board office, offered invaluable insights that no guidebook could provide. As we traversed the city, he pointed out landmarks significant to both the diamond trade and the civil war, explaining how these events shaped the Kenema of today. His personal stories of living through these tumultuous times provided perspective that, as an environmental attorney accustomed to examining historical land use patterns, I found particularly enlightening.

Before visiting, I strongly suggest reading A Long Way Gone. While not specifically about Kenema, this memoir offers crucial context about the civil war that shaped modern Sierra Leone. Understanding this history isn't just educational—it's respectful to the people who lived through it.

As someone who's spent a career navigating the complex legal frameworks of resource extraction in the American West, I was particularly fascinated by Kenema's diamond industry. The city remains Sierra Leone's diamond trading hub, though the wild days of the 1960s and 70s have given way to more regulated commerce.

The diamond district centers around Hangha Road, where licensed dealers operate from modest offices. Don't expect glamorous showrooms—this is a working trade center, not a tourist attraction. While casual visitors can't simply walk in and purchase gems (nor should you try), you can arrange to visit a legitimate dealer through proper channels.

I spent a morning with Abdulai, a second-generation diamond dealer who explained the industry's transformation since the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme was implemented to combat conflict diamonds. His knowledge of gemology rivaled any expert I've encountered in my environmental cases involving mining claims back home.

For those interested in seeing the source, it's possible to visit artisanal diamond mining sites outside the city. These aren't the massive industrial operations you might imagine, but rather small-scale endeavors where miners use simple tools to sift through gravel beds. I arranged my visit through the local tourist office, ensuring both safety and ethical engagement with the miners.

While observing these operations, I was reminded of the small-scale gold panners I've encountered in Montana's streams—though the stakes and conditions here are markedly different. For documenting these unique experiences, my waterproof camera proved invaluable, especially during a sudden afternoon downpour at the mining site.

If Kenema's diamond district represents its economic engine, then the city's markets are its beating heart. Having explored markets from Wyoming to Montana's tribal reservations, I can confidently say that Kenema's central market ranks among the most vibrant I've encountered.

Arrive early—around 7 AM—to witness the market coming to life as vendors arrange pyramids of cassava, plantains, and fiery scotch bonnet peppers. The textile section showcases locally-produced gara cloth, a traditional fabric dyed using techniques passed down through generations. I purchased several pieces as gifts, each pattern telling its own story.

Food in Kenema reflects both local Mende traditions and broader West African influences. The city's signature dish is plasas—a savory stew of cassava leaves simmered with palm oil, dried fish, and various meats, typically served with rice. At Mama Kadiatu's roadside eatery near the market, I enjoyed the best version of this dish, served on a communal bench where I broke bread (or rather, shared rice) with local teachers and motorcycle taxi drivers.

For those with less adventurous palates, Lebanese-owned restaurants offer familiar Mediterranean options—a culinary legacy of Lebanon's long commercial presence in Sierra Leone. Continental Restaurant on Hangha Road serves reliable meals in air-conditioned comfort, though at prices significantly higher than local establishments.

Staying hydrated is critical in Kenema's tropical climate. While bottled water is widely available, I reduced plastic waste by using my water purifier bottle throughout my trip. This allowed me to safely drink tap water and avoid contributing to the plastic pollution problem I've fought against in my environmental work back home.

While Kenema itself offers plenty to explore, the surrounding region houses some of West Africa's most significant ecological treasures. As an environmental attorney who's dedicated my career to protecting natural landscapes, these areas were the highlight of my Sierra Leone journey.

Tiwai Island Wildlife Sanctuary sits in the Moa River, about a two-hour drive from Kenema plus a short boat ride. This 12 square kilometer island hosts one of the world's densest and most diverse primate populations, including the endangered Diana monkey and chimpanzees. The sanctuary is community-managed, with proceeds supporting local villages—a conservation model I've long advocated for in my legal work.

I spent two days on Tiwai, staying in the basic but adequate research station accommodations. My guide, Ibrahim, displayed a knowledge of local flora and fauna that would humble many university-trained biologists I've worked with on environmental impact statements. During dawn hikes, we spotted eleven primate species, though the elusive pygmy hippopotamus—one of the island's most famous residents—remained hidden.

Further afield lies the Gola Rainforest National Park, one of West Africa's last significant tracts of upper Guinean tropical forest. This ecosystem once stretched from Guinea to Togo but has been reduced to fragments, making Gola's protection crucial. The park offers more developed tourism infrastructure than Tiwai, including guided hikes and birdwatching tours.

For both excursions, my binoculars proved essential for wildlife spotting. The clarity and light-gathering capabilities made all the difference in identifying birds and distant primates in the forest canopy. When packing for these excursions, remember that you're entering genuine wilderness—prepare accordingly.

Kenema demands a different approach than the American Southwest destinations I typically write about. This isn't Yellowstone or the Grand Canyon, where infrastructure caters to tourists at every turn. Here, you're operating in an environment where tourism remains nascent, requiring both preparation and flexibility.

Accommodation options in Kenema are limited but improving. I stayed at the Sierra Palm Hotel, which offers reliable electricity (via generator during frequent outages), air conditioning, and secure parking. At approximately $60 USD per night, it represents the higher end of local options. Budget travelers might consider the Catholic Mission Guesthouse, which provides clean, basic rooms at about one-third the price.

Connectivity presents challenges—internet access is intermittent even at the best establishments. I maintained communication using a local SIM card (Orange provides the best coverage) and my portable power bank, which proved essential during the frequent power outages. Having backup power meant I could keep my phone and camera operational even when the city's electricity wasn't.

Health precautions are non-negotiable. Beyond required yellow fever vaccination, malaria prophylaxis is essential. Consult a travel medicine specialist well before departure, as some preventative medications must be started weeks in advance. The 2014 Ebola outbreak is long over, but it left behind improved hygiene practices—hand washing stations are ubiquitous and should be used regularly.

Security concerns exist but are manageable with common sense. Kenema is significantly safer than Freetown, with violent crime rare. Still, display the same street awareness you'd use in any unfamiliar urban environment. I never felt threatened during my two weeks, though I avoided walking alone after dark and kept valuables secured.